Uncanvassed & Washable Linen Suit

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Well, you now have at least one worldwide who will, and she's not even a "brand-name tailor".

But she is the best tailor I've commissioned worldwide, in my humble opinion.

Who is your tailor?--i dont see the name in the thread above

Maison Iris Tailor of Singapore.

Truly an oasis in a desert of style.

Let me know if you'd like an introduction.

[Merc]

Maison Iris Tailor of Singapore.
Truly an oasis in a desert of style.
Let me know if you'd like an introduction.

Monsieur Xu: Thank you
im not ready at the moment-- especially as i dont expect to travel to singapore in the next year.

[Greger]

It is nice to see this thread.

So many people only think of tailored garments of only a few types of clothes, when there are really many to enjoy.

[risker]

Not a 100% match, but this fits this thread in sentiment.

I have a brown heavy winter cotton from Scabal begging me to be made into an odd coat. It has a lot of structure on its own so can be made similar to this linen without the "stuffing". I want something informal for the winter weekend or a cold Friday at the office. Key words are informal, practical.

My thoughts:
Cut a bit wide perhaps even pleated at the shoulder back.
Patch hip pockets.
Working tab collar on the lapel.
Replace the melton on the back of the lapel collar with some interesting tweed.
Belted back.

I am not a hunter and do not want to copy a hunting jacket.

Appreciate any input.

[Costi]

Nice design, risker. Add some horn buttons (one-button cuffs) and you're done.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

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[Giuseppe L]

Great suit, Monsieur Xu! The cloth is absolutely wonderful. Do you happen to recall what number it was from the Bill books?

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Great suit, Monsieur Xu! The cloth is absolutely wonderful. Do you happen to recall what number it was from the Bill books?

Grazie mille Giuseppe, the fabric bunch is 60150 from the linen book.

[Giuseppe L]

Thanks so much, I fear I will be gifting myself some for Christmas!

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Thanks so much, I fear I will be gifting myself some for Christmas!

I heartily recommend it! With this particular cloth, I've commissioned the whole spectrum of bespokery, from a hand-rolled cellphone case to swim trunks. A summer shawl-collared dressing gown is in the works...

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

And here is more of the same, rendered this time in an heavy Azure blue linen with cream buffalo horn buttons, 4x2 and three patch pockets, just in time for the Christmas festivities.

The true colour of the ensemble is best represented in the second photo.

[Scot]

Monsieur Xu, could we possibly see a close-up of those cream buffalo horn buttons - and do you know where to source them? I have a Fresco DB blazer currently in the making and am looking for non-metal buttons that will look elegant but just a little different. These seem to fit the bill.

[jlazarow]

Very nice indeed! It looks wonderful and I like the idea of washable linen. I recently took delivery of a navy linen single breasted suit from Huntsman. I think Patrick Murphy did an outstanding job. As soon as I can I will take some pictures.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Photos of the 14 oz WBill linen uncanvassed Norfolk jacket with full-cut white linen odd trews. Four bellows pockets in front, full sewn-on belt, action back behind, four buttons with the waist button as the lowest, collar may be buttoned completely, jacket is totally unpadded and entirely unlined - including sleeves and facings.

The Norfolk had been handwashed thrice by the time the picture was taken. The added wrinkles, in my opinion, do not diminish the alchemy of the design and the cloth. And heavy linen does indeed hold up well in subzero temperatures with no windchill. The unseasonal dress is due to the great variances in climate in Lebanon, from the Mediterranean coast to the Lebanese Alps in half an hour, and then on to tropical and balmy Sidon in the South where stands a perfectly pristine Crusader castle. The heavy linen fared much better than heavy tweed under such travel requirements.

taken at Barouk in south-east Lebanon, the site of the most ancient Cedars of Lebanon.

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[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

going uncanvassed doesn't necessarily mean a loss of line and shaping of the chest and waist...

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They're all over a year old now and have been washed numerous times and thoroughly broken in in the punishing Singapore climate. And interestingly, when paired with a scarf, the heavy linen keeps me warm up to the 12 degree Centigrade mark.

I've just commissioned a winter DB blazer version of this in navy moleskin - should be intriguing to see how the light construction translates into a cold-weather garment.