Horizontal shirt stripes

[SMCK]

I'm a bit late with this, but in todays (march 10) edition of the Daily Telegraph there is a full page advertisement for Ralph Lauren, featuring under the suit a horizontally striped shirt. I have no idea how to put that picture up here; perhaps someone cleverer than I could do that.

[dopey]

. . . Dopey, is the non-overlapping placket a trait of Neapolitan makers generally, or just this house (and would you be willing to divulge its name)?
. . .

Couch:
While I am sure no-gauntlet-button-on-a-French-cuff-shirt was presented as a rule (which means, at most, only a Italian or Neapolitan rule), I don't know about the placket design as it wasn't discussed. I am trying Napoli Su Misura and it would not surprise me if the placket design were Adamo's own, but neither would it surprise me if it were standard Neapolitan construction.

[Etutee]

ok guys

since there are no pictures of horizontal stripe shirts from members I will post 3 of my causal ones. They all are in side vented model with squared bottom meant to be worn casually and usually tucked outside. All 3 have buttondown collars. Ideal for summer in South and West US. All of them go incredibly well with summer pants like light colored linens and cottons (solids ofcourse).



It is the same principle as horizontal striped polo shirts. Since I am very lean and of average height (5'10") these do not hurt my "width" in any ways in fact help me a bit.

[akaSmith]

Thank you Etutee for this post with pictures of horizontal shirt stripes including the shirt's arm. I was wondering if the stripes on the arm are horizontal too and now I see they are. In one of the shirts you talk in the article on this topic I saw the arm with vertical stripes and this casual ones have horizontal stripes on the arm. I think it depends on the size of the stripes as well as personal preferences.

[Etutee]

Thank you Etutee for this post with pictures of horizontal shirt stripes including the shirt's arm. I was wondering if the stripes on the arm are horizontal too and now I see they are. In one of the shirts you talk in the article on this topic I saw the arm with vertical stripes and this casual ones have horizontal stripes on the arm. I think it depends on the size of the stripes as well as personal preferences.

yes indeed. all the stripes on body and sleeve are horizontal but the cuffs and collar are cut regular. So in other words they are not reversed to minimize the clash and keep everything harmonious as much as possible. One of them has a yoke that is of vertical.... far left but I avoided it on all the rest. In this case (at least I feel) that the greater the distance between stripes the better they work. (This is the exact opposite of what I did in dress shirt version where stripes were very close and much less prominent.) So the stripe on on the far left works best than the other two. If there was one alternating colored stripe missing in the ones on the right... the effect would be much more sporty

With these, I usually try to have them as far removed from dress shirts (in style and context) as possible. Basically, they are my subtitutes for polo knit shirts.

Certainly, they are not for everybody.

[dopey]

Re the gauntlet button. I am certain there is no gauntlet button present on de Sica's shirt. The reason I say that is that I have recently been experimenting with a Neapolitan shirtmaker to replace my long-standing English one, and I asked for French cuffs on the sleeves. I raised the issue of a gauntlet button, since, while I am not sure I have a preference for one, it something I have always had. The shirtmaker was insistent that a French cuff should never have a gauntlet button and that the button should only be used on more sportier shirts. I acquiesced and was rewarded with the most beautiful gauntlet placket I have ever seen. the placket is two and a half to three inches wide and rather than overlap to close, it is formed with a u-shaped opening that has at its base, a beautiful long curved bar tack. It is only a sleeve placket, but it is exceptionally beautiful. On the other hand, I am also trying a new English shirtmaker, and he was happy to put in a gauntlet button.
. . .

. . . Dopey, is the non-overlapping placket a trait of Neapolitan makers generally, or just this house (and would you be willing to divulge its name)?
. . .

Couch:
While I am sure no-gauntlet-button-on-a-French-cuff-shirt was presented as a rule (which means, at most, only a Italian or Neapolitan rule), I don't know about the placket design as it wasn't discussed. I am trying Napoli Su Misura and it would not surprise me if the placket design were Adamo's own, but neither would it surprise me if it were standard Neapolitan construction.

I visited with Mina Adamo again today and I suppose I have learned some more, although I am not sure precisely what it is that I have learned (other than that it would be helpful to speak Italian).

Because I hadn't yet been satisfied with the fit of my first shirt from Napoli su Misura, Adamo had taken it back for adjustment and I was to try it on again today. Rather than rework it, she made an entirely new one. I knew that the instant I tried it on. In making the first shirt, she had misunderstood what I wanted on the French cuffs; this time, I noticed the cuff were exactly as I had originally asked. Unfortunately, while a beautiful bar tack was still there, the rest of the unique placket design was gone and replaced with the more usual overlapping style. I am not sure I understood correctly, but I think she explained that I could have the mitered French cuff I asked for or the large open placket, but not both. I don't know why that is, exactly, but that is what I think I heard.

Alternatively, she may may have been telling me that she changed the placket because she thought that the old bespoke shirt that I had given her to be used as a possible resource for figuring out the fit problem was to be used as a model for everything -- she changed many other details on the first shirt to mimic my old shirt and explained that is what she thought I wanted.

I know I will try to get her old placket design back on the next French cuff order, and if giving up mitered French cuffs proves to be the price, I will pay it. If I can have both, all the better

[Costi]

Dopey,

Might this be the placket treatment that you admired on the first shirt?
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/ ... acket1.jpg
(from mfan's blog - also a Napoli-made shirt)

Rather than rework it, she made an entirely new one.

Unstitching a shirt is a nightmare - I know this from my shirtmaker who alo prefers to cut and make a new shirt if there is ever a problem with one, provided she has enough fabric. If not, she has to resort to the old shaving blade and the painstaking work of cutting the thread only, inch by inch, and not the fabric itself. She sometimes does alterations on RTW shirts for some "luxury" shops that pay dearly for this service, as there is so much work involved in unstitching that she pays someone else to do it and then she recuts and saws back the shirt. Moving up the sleeve placket on a sleeve that needs shortening (without taking the sleeve apart) is another nightmare. So yes, on a traditionally stitched shirt (single needle French stitching) it's easier to make a new shirt than disassemble an already sewn one.
What do you mean by mitered French cuffs?

[dopey]

Dopey,

Might this be the placket treatment that you admired on the first shirt?
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/ ... acket1.jpg
(from mfan's blog - also a Napoli-made shirt)

That is clearly from the same family, but is not the same design. On mine, the placket was overlayed rather than just outlined with stitches and the opening was more of a "u" than a "v"; but the idea is similar.

Rather than rework it, she made an entirely new one.

Unstitching a shirt is a nightmare - I know this from my shirtmaker who alo prefers to cut and make a new shirt if there is ever a problem with one, provided she has enough fabric. If not, she has to resort to the old shaving blade and the painstaking work of cutting the thread only, inch by inch, and not the fabric itself. She sometimes does alterations on RTW shirts for some "luxury" shops that pay dearly for this service, as there is so much work involved in unstitching that she pays someone else to do it and then she recuts and saws back the shirt. Moving up the sleeve placket on a sleeve that needs shortening (without taking the sleeve apart) is another nightmare. So yes, on a traditionally stitched shirt (single needle French stitching) it's easier to make a new shirt than disassemble an already sewn one.
What do you mean by mitered French cuffs?

Ms. Adamo told me that the cloth, would show holes since she was making so many changes. Mitred cuffs are French cuffs where the outside corner appears clipped off. I like them because they present a less acute angle and wear out slower. They look like this:

[Greger]

It seems odd to see horizontal stripes on button up shirt, unless it is prison wear. Nothing wrong, just odd.

[le.gentleman]

Dear all,

I know it has been two years ever since this thread was active but I just posted an article about the horizontal stripe shirt, including Etutte's great pictures and a shirt from 1936. I hope you enjoy it.

[Pssst]

From Vestire, 1961. An Italian magazine on trends for tailored clothes.

[cathach]

Gorgeous illustration, well done on finding it and thanks for putting it up. Anyone know where you could get the shirtings to have them made?

[Scot]

Awful getup. Makes the eyes go funny just looking at it.

[Sir Royston]

I dont think I own any shirts with horizontal stripes.. however I have seen a few shirts recently and I rather like them.. So.. certainly on the shopping list!!

[andreyb]

Anyone know where you could get the shirtings to have them made?

I guess you can use standard striped cloth, just cut it on a different side.

Though I tend to agree with Scot's assessment.

Andrey