Suit Collar Design

[The_Sartorialist]

Spotted the following collar design in 2 recent films (Kevin Spacey in Superman Returns; Liam Neeson in Batman Begins) - does anyone know the name of such a collar type?



It probably isn't functional and simply a hangover from historical designs, but it would be useful to know the name nevertheless.

[Jordan Marc]

Scott:

That suit collar is a tabover extension with a buttonhole. If the collar is turned up all around, a button will be found on the right side of the collar to which the tab can be buttoned for warmth. Depending upon the weight of the cloth, the buttonhole tab can be folded under and held in place with a button on the left, so both lapels are notched. Cary Grant occasonally wore a jacket of this style. And Ralph Lauren made a fawn and cream-colored herringbone sport jacket with the same kind of collar, which you can find in the wealth of stylish photos on your very own blog.

JMB

[Bishop of Briggs]

It's a collar that is commonly found on sports and shooting jackets, e.g. http://www.farlows.co.uk/product_info.p ... 3c78d58287. My new shooting jacket from Cordings (currently being finished) is virtually identical in style. I just call it a fastening or tab collar but others could confirm a more technical term.

[formby]

It's a throat latch

[The_Sartorialist]

Thanks all, the responses have been very helpful, especially now that I know the technical name for it is a 'throat latch'.

Jordan, alas, I'm not the reputable Mr Schuman which you had mistaken me for, but simply one who aspires to that paragon, and who is incidentally a fan of his work at well.

[Bishop of Briggs]

I have also seen it referred to as a storm tab collar.

[marcelo]

Scott:

That suit collar is a tabover extension with a buttonhole. If the collar is turned up all around, a button will be found on the right side of the collar to which the tab can be buttoned for warmth. Depending upon the weight of the cloth, the buttonhole tab can be folded under and held in place with a button on the left, so both lapels are notched. Cary Grant occasonally wore a jacket of this style. And Ralph Lauren made a fawn and cream-colored herringbone sport jacket with the same kind of collar, which you can find in the wealth of stylish photos on your very own blog.

JMB

There also seems to be one variation where the tab is fully detachable. It remains concealed beneath the collar, but can be put to use during a storm, allowing the jacket to be completely closed. The tab is workable without being conspicuous. In the images below Edward Fox plays the role of Duke of Windsor. The tab is not really being used, but it is visible as the collar is turned up all around.

[Jordan Marc]

Marcelo:

Hmm, I had forgotten this variation of the collar latch. Speaking of which, the classic Burberry 5150 trench coat sported yet another variation of the latch, replete with an adjustable strap and a leather-covered buckle.

JMB

[couch]

Just to point out an additional rough-weather feature on Fox/Windsor's coat in the picture above which can be done independently of any version of the throat latch on the collar proper, and that's the button on the underside of the right lapel which can be used to close the lapels under the chin to cover the chest. I have such a button put on my sturdier tweed jackets. It's completely inconspicuous when not in use, does not alter the lapel line or lie, and provides all but about an inch of the coverage added by a throat latch. Given the relative infrequency with which it needs to be used, and the likelihood that I'll be wearing a scarf, tie or turtleneck if I'm actually anticipating blustery weather, I find this quite adequate and much more elegant and less "detailey" than adding the fixed throat latch. With the right cloth the fold-back throat latch can be reasonably unobtrusive, but with a sturdy cloth the collar edge becomes bulky and asymmetrical with its mate. I think the detachable latch, as in the photo, looks better (because completely hidden when not in use) if the collar is ample enough to lie well with the extra layers of cloth beneath--a big if.

I respond to the fixed throat latch the way Michael seems to feel about angled hacking pockets on non-equestrian jackets. Too too.

[storeynicholas]

I think that it's also a variation on a 'ghillie collar' - to keep the wind and rain out when shooting and fishing.
NJS.

[Costi]

I like that asymmetry of the collar, provided the throat latch finds itself on a heavy tweed jacket and is functional, not a "sartorial" embellishment on a worsted town coat.

This is my only coat that sports it and I have to say I used it more often than I expected when I had it made.

[culverwood]

There also seems to be one variation where the tab is fully detachable. It remains concealed beneath the collar, but can be put to use during a storm, allowing the jacket to be completely closed. The tab is workable without being conspicuous. In the images below Edward Fox plays the role of Duke of Windsor. The tab is not really being used, but it is visible as the collar is turned up all around.

I cannot see how this design would work - on a similar coat I have there are two buttons behind the collar and the tab with two buttonholes is normally kept on the inside if the coat beside the left inside pocket.

[dopey]

I cannot see how this design would work - on a similar coat I have there are two buttons behind the collar and the tab with two buttonholes is normally kept on the inside if the coat beside the left inside pocket.

It does. Really, there are about as many versions of this as you can think of, all being variations on a theme. I even have a stormcoat that uses an extra strap tucked under the lapels to close the overcoat across the chest rather than cross the neck.
In my own experience, and I can count at least four variations, I least prefer the integrated, foldover end (as illustrated in the OP and Costi's post) and most prefer the version where a separate strap is sewn on one end to the underside of the collar on one side of the coat and unfolded to cross the throat and button on the other side when deployed. My favorite version uses a strap made of collar melton. But we are in the realm of preference here and all solutions work more or less equally well if the maker takes time to fit them properly.

[risker]

I have some 750g tweed to make into a heavy sport jacket. I prefer the Costi version on a heavy jacket for its simple utility and "honesty". if it is not heavy then the whole concept seems fussy and out of context.

What else would you specify in such a jacket? I assume that the collar is reversible in the sense that all tweed showing when turned up.

[dopey]

I have some 750g tweed to make into a heavy sport jacket. I prefer the Costi version on a heavy jacket for its simple utility and "honesty". if it is not heavy then the whole concept seems fussy and out of context.

What else would you specify in such a jacket? I assume that the collar is reversible in the sense that all tweed showing when turned up.

In my experience, and I have several, the collar back is still made of melton rather than self backed (i.e., it is not all tweed). Whether there is a throat latch design or not, the need for a melton back for the collar is still there - the melton is stable and less likely to stretch, shrink or warp. I have seen self backed collars on RTW and I suspect that "feature" is there to make sales because it looks like the collar is meant to be turned up and is "fancier". If you do get a throat latch done, ask your tailor what he recommends for the back of the collar - I am sure he will give you what you want, but if you give him the choice, I predict he will recommend melton.

If we have any tailors reading, I would love to hear their thoughts on this.