Overcoat Ideas

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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HitMan009
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Thu Dec 03, 2009 11:15 pm

Gentlemen,

I just received my order of Harrisons herringbone overcoating. I been searching in vain for a knee length overcoat style that would be a relatively modern style with a great silhouette but still be timeless. It's the details that I am trying to pick out now. I also order some P&B Universal herringbone cloth for a vest for the overcoat. I would like fellow forum members to provide pictures for me and/or describe to me some ideas.

Thank You very much
HitMan009
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Sat Dec 05, 2009 4:26 pm

Since there are no takers yet, how about we make this thread into a unification thread where all pictures of overcoats and ideas are posted. I spent a great deal of time looking at all the forums looking for ideas for overcoats and also a button-in lining for the overcoat, so the information is kind of out there but a thread setup purely for overcoating seem like a great idea for me.

Thanks again.
Costi
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Sat Dec 05, 2009 4:37 pm

There is a collection of overcoat images here: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =39&t=8853
Perhaps if you could describe what it is you want from your knee length overcoat and were unable to find, we might help. Is it going to be townwear or countrywear? What colour herringbone and what kind of cloth? Single-breasted or double-breasted? What was it that didn't convince you in the designs you saw elsewhere? Do you see anything that you like in the thread linked above?
HitMan009
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 4:32 am
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Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:17 pm

Thanks for responding.

I am looking for a overcoat that is knee length but I want it to have a handsome fitted silhouette. My design issues are what details I want it to have. It has to be timeless but not bland like the stuff I can find off the rack so adding a few "quirks" to the overcoat is what I would like to do. Small details like a 1 button cuff I think would look nice. Should I go edge stitching or not.... I would like to wear with a suit and sans suit. What style of pockets, how the shoulder should be made up, i.e just a seam or a strip of fabric, etc. I am also wondering how the back should be, i.e perhaps a stitched in belt, etc. Elegant, trim and a bit of edge is what I am aiming for if that makes any sense.

Now for the button-in removable vest. I imagine there can be infinite choices here. I was thinking on a fold down collar so when it is bitterly cold here in NYC, I can take out the vest, pop up the collar and button it back to the overcoat so now I have two layers including a scarf when the wind is blowing. It would also be nice that I can take out the vest and wear it during working hours because my building has a weird way of turning on the hear while still have some form of AC blasting.

So as you can see, I have this great cloth so I don't want to waste on making some bland coat that I can find off the rack. Not that there is anything wrong with the overcoats at Brooks Brothers or what not, just something that different but in a tasteful and timeless way. Obviously, I want it to be very functional but I also want it to be elegant at the same time.
Costi
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Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:31 pm

Hitman,

That is a nice, sober cloth. I see it as an elegant city overcoat. A knee-long coat calls for a more informal cut, perhaps you should go a litle below the knee, if not mid-calf with an overcoat made of such an elegant cloth.
Do you want it SB or DB? Does any of the examples below speak to you? (in no particular order):
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If you want an overcoat that you can wear with or without a suit, I think you need to choose a simple model, such as a SB Chesterfield. If you complicate things, it will inevitably acquire a character (more formal or more informal) that will limit its use. One-button cuffs work on sports jackets.
Versatile garments have to be simple. What will make your overcoat different from the Brooks Brothers RTW is the quality of the cloth, the fit and the quality of the workmanship.
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