Some practical advice required for life in the countryside

[Richard3]

I heartily second the motion for the gray flannel suit for the creative man in all of us. The Eden in Paris cloth made recently in our club is a good example. It is smart in every sense of the word.

I am glad that I finally took the LL triple check to my tailor after it rested in my closet for a couple of years. There`s indeed nothing like a flannel suit especially one with an interesting pattern...

[Des Esseintes]

Porteus

moving to the country can be a great liberation, and doesn't really require much of a change in attire, unless until now you had to adhere to a rather strict city dress code. All the good advice is, as usual, perfectly well summarised in Costi's post.

Maybe one additional suggestion from someone who grew up in the country and now, for his sins, lives in the city most of the time: Notwithstanding all the stylistic guidance you will receive from the knowledgeable members of this great forum, by all means avoid overdoing the "country squire" thing. Everyday life in the country is far removed from a fancy dress party organised by The Chap magazine, and, generally, the locals find few things more ridiculous (if you are lucky) or even plainly annoying than a city boy dressing up as if he had just arrived at Sir Roderick and Lady Glossop's for the weekend. While tweeds, cords, Barbour jackets and all the other immovables of the country uniform are certainly accepted, they should be worn in moderation and dressed down though, at least until you have found your place in your new local community. Making your round of introductory visits to your neighbours in a three-piece bespoke shooting suit with plus-fours, a deerstalker hat and a loden cape may be well advised on Halloween but not during the other 364 days of the year.

dE

[porteus]

Des Esseintes,

You have summed up my own thoughts and fears exactly, and made me laugh out loud in the process. My original post was a request for advice on dressing for my actual life, not some imagined fantasy. Certainly the excellent advice I have received is based on a firm foundation of practical, but stylish dress. But I simply could not get away with an Ulster coat, and I don't shoot. A city suit is more or less redundant here most of the time, but I am fed up with wearing jeans, a sweatshirt and a Peter Storm - they are not practical or comfortable anyway - especially when it rains, which it does with alarming frequency...!

I favour the suggestions based around a simple set of items - cords, tweed coat, flannels, 3/4 coat, derbies, even a cap when it rains. I like to think it would always be easy to pull together a suitable outfit (which could be suitably dressed down) for any occasion, even if it's just cooking Sunday lunch at home with the family, or popping to the pub to read the papers.

Porteus

[Costi]

Haha! Des Esseintes, you conjured up Proteus's nightmare ghost. Why, I would call this an exorcism!
In this respect it is the styling of the clothes and the way you wear them that make or break the look. You want to avoid cliches (like the ones very humorously described by Des Esseintes) and go for basic classics: no fancy detailing, no screaming tweeds, no "overtailoring", "overstyling" and "overcoordination" as I like to call them. Being a designer and with your innitial query in mind, I am sure you have the eye for what works well. You seem to have a healthy sense of ridicule, and that is a lot of help! I envy those who don't... or whose sense of humour supplants it
I prefer moleskins to cords - their homogenous but textured surface works well with tweed jackets (or a 3/4 tweed overcoat). Cords are fine though with a shirt and pullover, with or without your Barbour. I like cords and moleskins cut full on the thigh, but with a flat front or, better yet, with darts - unlike flannel slacks which look better with the fulness of double pleats.
I admit the Ulster is more "fantasy" than real 21st century country life. It can be very stylish, but you'll look awkward if you don't have the right feeling for it. However I maintain the Raglan, which works very well both with moleskins / cords & turtleneck and with flannels and tweed jackets - anything really you could wear in the country. Choose a nice tweed that is not too loud and chances are it will soon become a favourite. Of course, this does not exclude the practical 3/4 coat, especially for field activity. The Raglan will be perfect for going shopping, to the pub, to the library and around the village. Besides, the Raglan may very well be bought ready-to-wear thanks to its loose cut.

[Des Esseintes]

Porteus

again, everything Costi said is excellent advice - maybe I disagree with him on his assertion that flannel trousers look better with double pleats than flat-fronted, but that is for another discussion.

It seems you want to be dressed elegantly and tastefully without standing out so much that you might cause offence or ridicule - generally a very prudetn approach, I'd say. A good, simple way of achieving this: Go to your new village home,observe the locals, pick the best dressed and consider emulating his style. If the best dressed is the vicar, re-consider...

...and now, to complete the task assigned to me by Costi, repeat after me: Vade retro satana / Numquam suade mihi vana ...

dE (not quite O.P., though)

[culverwood]

If you are looking for tweed jackets etc at a reasonable price Bookster http://www.tweed-jacket.com/ is a possibility. They also do reasonable cords and moleskins.

I use old SOS (Sportswear of Sweden) ski jackets for walks.

[uppercase]

go for basic classics: no fancy detailing, no screaming tweeds, no "overtailoring", "overstyling" and "overcoordination" as I like to call them.

All good advice but I wonder about the prescription for 'no screaming tweeds'.

Why no screaming tweeds?

Some British firms make a living out of selling such screamers as well as bright, brash colored sweaters, cords, shirts, and on and on, which would scare the animals.

Now, are these firms just selling to the tourists? Just cynically cashing in on the tourists perception of what British-wear is …as opposed to what British really wear?

If so, there are many willing victims seeking le look anglais.

Everyday life in the country is far removed from a fancy dress party organised by The Chap magazine, and, generally, the locals find few things more ridiculous (if you are lucky) or even plainly annoying than a city boy dressing up as if he had just arrived at Sir Roderick and Lady Glossop's for the weekend.

This raises an important question: what is parody? To what extent should we dress with others in consideration? How important are norms? Where does individualism fit in vs. adherence to norms?

People are endlessly judgmental, exclusive rather than inclusive. People’s views can feel powerfully tyrannical to the extent that one gives them credence.

I know that it would needlessly complicate my life if I were to arise each morning and before I dress, first consider what people might consider ridiculous, parody, excessive or odd. Certainly, the ascot, fedora, cape and even tie would best be replaced with jeans, sweatshirt and trainers. Even business dress today is considered parody to some, as in to be ‘a suit’.

The impulse to be accepted by the tribe and subsume oneself to the group is strong. That’s why I always have had a soft spot for dandies, for better or worse:



Ofcourse, sprezzatura is consciously trying to be unselfconscious in dress and behaviour. It is the human predicament that we inevitably have consciousness of ourselves hence the conundrum in which we find ourselves and hope to escape as we look in the mirror.

Finally, as to what this all has to do with country wear, I'll leave you with this thought:

[Gruto]

This raises an important question: what is parody? To what extent should we dress with others in consideration? How important are norms? Where does individualism fit in vs. adherence to norms?

We should care about norms but not so much in dress. Many think that dress speaks. It doesn't. Language carry specific messages; dress carries all kinds of messages depending on the recievers experience and knowledge. No one can really tell you what dress "says". The only norm in dress is that it shouldn't offend.

[Costi]

Uppercase, I personally have absolutely nothing against loud tweeds - on the contrary, I enjoy wearing them:

My advice for Porteus took into consideration his stated desire to not stand out too much. Besides, one can dress interestingly using more quiet tweeds, as well:

[Des Esseintes]

Now, are these firms just selling to the tourists? Just cynically cashing in on the tourists perception of what British-wear is …as opposed to what British really wear?
If so, there are many willing victims seeking le look anglais.

Indeed. Good Mr Hackett made a fortune selling such stereotype. Nothing wrong with dressing to a stereotype, just be aware of it.

This raises an important question: what is parody? To what extent should we dress with others in consideration? How important are norms? Where does individualism fit in vs. adherence to norms?
People are endlessly judgmental, exclusive rather than inclusive. People’s views can feel powerfully tyrannical to the extent that one gives them credence.
I know that it would needlessly complicate my life if I were to arise each morning and before I dress, first consider what people might consider ridiculous, parody, excessive or odd. Certainly, the ascot, fedora, cape and even tie would best be replaced with jeans, sweatshirt and trainers. Even business dress today is considered parody to some, as in to be ‘a suit’.
The impulse to be accepted by the tribe and subsume oneself to the group is strong. That’s why I always have had a soft spot for dandies, for better or worse:

All good questions and comments. I guess I sensed that the original poster asked his initial question exactly because he wants to "dress with others in consideration",hance my advice to avoid taking the "country squire" look too far.
I am all for an individual sense of style, and I do dress to the stereotype of Le Look Anglais more often than not. Nevertheless, I believe I should be conscious of the reactions such clothes are likely to evoke in my environment. I don't usually spend much time musing about whether this one or that one will like my tweed suit or not but I am well aware that a tweed suit, "c'est pas normal", as the French like to say, and will thus evoke more extreme reactions, from admiration to ridicule, to discomfiture. In particular, stylistic nuances usually associated with whatever constitutes or may have once constituted "Upper Class" create distance, whether that may be a deliberate choice or not. Many of us don't care or even aim for that distance, but it may not be what everyone is looking for.
dE

[AndyM]

I have rarely found discussion on country dressing, this is first rate! Like the OP, I live in the country and generally do not need many business suits. I agree with much of the advice given, a couple of odd jackets and a supply of cords and moleskins is really all you need. My barbour has hung on the rack since I discovered teflon coated tweed, in fairness to barbour years ago they were the only option if you wanted to keep dry all day. Most country areas still have gents outfitters catering for the country/farming community and they are usually good value for basics. A couple of tweed caps are a must and a trilby if it suits your style.

What do members think of a Norfolk jacket? It would be considered eccentric around here but I like the practicality of the pockets and the way it would bridge between a jacket and a coat in a heavy tweed. Has it become a cliche?

Andy

[Des Esseintes]

Costi

now you managed to make me so envious not only of your amazing taste but also of the LL members' praise showered upon you that I have to break with my habit of never posting any pictures on such boards ...you still won't get to see me wearing them though!

Here you go - a selection of jackets suitable for the country:

















Please accept my apologies for the rather unsatisfactory photographs. The combination of not particularly sophisticated equipment, limited experience and my generalclumsiness prevents me from competing with other posters in this game.

dE

[Des Esseintes]

...talking about general clumsiness...

The images don't seem to upload, yet I followed the guidance provided - what do I do now! Help!

dE


Sorted - thank you, Costi!

[Costi]

Dear dE,

Envy is good, in this case
I very much look forward to seeing the pictures! If you can't upload the files directly, just go to http://www.imageshack.us or a similar image hosting site, upload the photos, copy the DIRECT LINKS supplied and paste them into your post. Select each link and click the Img button above your editing window to automatically add the image tags.

PS: if the pictures are very large (high resolution), check the "resize image" option on imageshack to a 15-inch monitor, for instance.

[uppercase]

Nicely done, Costi!
I like the dogs too.
What can you tell us about them?