Bespoke Overcoat

[alden]

In my mind a blue suit calls for a grey overcoat, and a grey suit needs a blue overcoat.

I think varying patterns can work as easily. If you wear a grey plain suit, match it with a grey herringbone overcoat etc.

Michael Alden

[Leon]

This SB, with fly front, peaked lapels, hacking pockets and sleeve cuffs, looks good.


Don't like the low waist on this DB.


Midnight blue DB would work well in the evening.

I recently had a MTM DB midnight blue greatcoat made up. Haven't had a chance to wear it yet!

Leon

[dopey]

This SB, with fly front, peaked lapels, hacking pockets and sleeve cuffs, looks good.


Don't like the low waist on this DB.


Midnight blue DB would work well in the evening.

I recently had a MTM DB midnight blue greatcoat made up. Haven't had a chance to wear it yet!

Leon

Interesting - I disagree with your comments on illustration one and two.

[Leon]

Well, de gustibus non est disputandum. Food for thought anyway. I wouldn't get peak lapels on the SB overcoat. As the fastening is low on the DB, i feel it wraps up less, which is less practical.

Leon

[manton]

Found a very nice all wool navy herringbone in Harrisons. It is heavier than the plain wool, but has less pile and so feels thinner. I really had not liked any other navy herringbones that I had seen, but this one grabbed me.

Will probably do plain DB, with breast welt pocket, two flapped pockets, and no frills. That's what the tailor recommended.

He was very down on cashmere and cashmere blends. Which is fine since I don't really have the appetite to pay for either.

[Jovan the Un1337]

If I were in your position, I'd be tempted by the stunning simplicity of Cary Grant's 6x2 overcoat.

[Richard3]

I own a very similar RTW-coat (charcoal/black cashmere). That`s an older pic, it`s now about an inch shorter which I think looks better:

[Jovan the Un1337]

Richard, I cannot click to a bigger image unfortunately.

[Costi]

Now it's full size.

[SMCK]

I am thinking overcoats again.
In yesterdays FT there is an article about overcoats in which about nine tailors/ shops etc. are asked their current view.
The general trend seems to be longer than previously probably due to last cold winter.
Patrick Grant suggests that a greatcoat is a good solution but that for formal wear a double breasted opera coat without epaulettes is right.
what exactly is he referring to ? Have googled this and searched here without producing a picture.
any help appreciated,

[Jordan Marc]

Manton,

You can't go wrong with Harrisons of Edinburgh. I should think three or four coats would be enough for any man's wardrobe: a double-breasted navy blue chesterfield, a luxurious tan belted polo coat, a charcoal and mid grey single-breasted chesterfield, and a covert cloth coat perhaps a wee bit longer than usual for a touch of elegance during the day. I wouldn't waste time with velvet collars and turnback cuffs on the chesterfields. You can always add velvet later when the collars wear out, and four buttons per sleeve look smarter than cuffs. Save the turnbacks for the polo coat.

JMB

[bond_and_beyond]

I am currently waiting for my first bespoke suit to be completed. Nevertheless I am thinking ahead for my next bespoke project. Living as I do in Oslo, Norway I need a very warm overcoat for the winter season (which lasts way too long in this country). However I have been unable to find off-the-rack coats that are sufficiently warm. I suppose that has to do with most off-the-rack brands making coats for markets with milder climates. Hence I am thinking of going bespoke.

Could anyone recommend a dark blue (midnight blue) cloth that would be suitable for a TRUE wintercoat? What else could one do to make such a coat sufficiently warm.

As the situation is now I am unable to wear proper coats over my suits, and need to wear a Canada Goose down jacket instead, which needless to say is untolerable.

I hope some of you gentlemen here could give me some good advice.

[alden]

Could anyone recommend a dark blue (midnight blue) cloth that would be suitable for a TRUE wintercoat? What else could one do to make such a coat sufficiently warm.

HE Box has a 32 ozs cavalry twill in a navy blue (9002), but it is not a midnight blue. Most of the overcoat material available through the distributors stop at 24 ozs. these days and it is a bit of a shame.

Cheers

M Alden

[alden]

In yesterdays FT there is an article about overcoats in which about nine tailors/ shops etc. are asked their current view.The general trend seems to be longer than previously probably due to last cold winter.

The tailors reported what their client's were ordering or what they were suggesting to their clients? Do we have bespoke trends?

Patrick Grant suggests that a greatcoat is a good solution but that for formal wear a double breasted opera coat without epaulettes is right.

You can't go wrong by vetoing epaulettes anytime on anything, even on safari coats. And I am not sure what a DB opera coat is either. Read Esquire instead.

Cheers

Michael

[ay329]

The 32oz H.E. Box Navy Cavalry Twill is a substantial cloth...with a subtle melton finish. I am considering it for my Navy Pea Coat

As to a warm cloth...Michael Alden mentioned he is commissioning a 35 oz (1000 gram) durable cashmere in a Dark Navy.

Could this be an an appropriate alternative to the above Cavalry Twill for a Navy Pea Coat?