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The design idea was to make a comfortable, easy to live with and car worthy coat capable of carrying a good deal of “stuff.”
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To give as much room in the body of the coat, I decided to leave off the lapels in favor of a “ghillie” collar and five button, buttons showing front. This cut reminded me of the set sleeve, ghillie collar styles promoted by Hardy Amies in the 1960s. Though I will never warm to his pencil thin trousers styles, I can attest to the fact that this cut of coat is extremely practical, comfortable and good looking as it flatters ones physique. Amies did know a thing or two about cutting and style.
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I used an old Hunter’s of Brora tweed from the famed Carroll book that I have had in
stock for a few decades. It weighs in at about 700 gms (25 ozs.) The pattern might remind you of the LLTW09 tweed that was issued as a part of the Winter 2009 subscriptions. The color combinations are similar and it was this tweed that gave me the idea that the TW09 would be handsome.
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Nothing too fancy in the interior of the coat save four large pockets to tote a picnic’s worth of goodies around the countryside or blackberries in the city.
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The completely natural shoulder is fitted with an open seam as I prefer them on overcoats. The hand work and sewing in general is what one would expect from the finest old school Italian tailors.
I have to admit to being pleased with this coat. It is not a cut you see everyday, but it offers great comfort and style: the two things we seek most in crafting bespoke garments.