Bespoke Overcoat

[manton]

After avoiding this for so long, I am finally ready. My decision to finally get a bespoke DJ has broken the mental logjam. After the DJ, an overcoat.

I know that I (eventually) want two. One will be a totally classic camel hair polo coat. The other will be a dressy coat for black tie and city businesswear.

For the latter, I am leaning strongly in favor of a plain navy (or maybe midnight if I can find it) DB. So be warned in advance that there will be a mafooish aspect to this thread, wherein many of you will make very good suggestions, and I will nonetheless do what I was planning all along. Still, I would like to consider the options.

I incline toward plain blue, but I might change that to self-herringbone. I know that many will recommend gray, but I just like blue better. The few times I have seen a bespoke blue coat I have found them stunning. Nothing against gray, just a preference on my part.

The A&S site shows a lovely solid blue DB with a half belt in back (no buttons like the polo) and sleeve cuffs. I like this coat a lot, but wonder of the detailing makes it too sporty for its intended use. Also, I don't want it to look too much like the polo coat.

Finally, am I wrong for ruling out SB for this coat? Dark blue SB, fly front? DB just seems more interesting, and better for my height.

[shredder]

For someone who seems to have a basic picture of how the coat ought to look like, you have more than a handful of questions!! Where to start!?

[alden]

I have never found a blue herringbone OC cloth that could be loved enough to make bespoke (on the other hand gray ones are splendid.) So it would have to be a solid blue, without belts in the back or cuffs on sleeves. A simple, naturally cut 6 x 2 DB in blue is the one and only way to go. Now if you really wanted to go to the next level up and have a gray coat made, then….

Cheers

Michael

[manton]

It is possible that I can be talked into dark gray herringbone, but I am not promising anything.

[newtrane]

Michael, could you please recommend a grey overcoating cloth?

[Montauk]

It is possible that I can be talked into dark gray herringbone, but I am not promising anything.

Stay the course. A beautiful blue bespoke coat is a thing of rare beauty. The cloth has got to be out there.

[Despos]

If the coat is dedicated to black tie and city businesswear, navy is fine. Once you wear it with sportcoats and casual trousers it looks wrong. There are navy/black herringbones which I would style 3X2 DB. This is elegant. Make sure the coat length is long enough to look balanced.
When you wear it with your DJ they will both be DB. Is that an issue to consider? I don't know.

If you want a solid cloth, there are several Navy, 80/20 wool cashmere blends that I would do SB, fly front. The simplicity speaks volumes.

Belts and or sleeve cuffs do not bode well on either style.
I like topcoats with designated pocket for gloves and a large patch pocket inside where the cigarette pocket would be to store a scarf.
As this coat and a polo coat are at either end of the spectrum, a dark grey would be useful (in the future) and practical for every day as well. I would not use the wool/cashmere blend for a grey one. I would use a hard finish that holds up to bad weather. Grey works better with businesswear or casual clothes, IMO.

The trifecta
Navy/black herringbone, 3X2, DB
Solid grey SB.
Polo coat

[alden]

If you want a solid cloth, there are several Navy, 80/20 wool cashmere blends that I would do SB, fly front. The simplicity speaks volumes.

That is a winning trifecta ticket Mr. Despos. I think the simplicity of the SB fly front is very attractive. And this model should be the default first choice bespoke OC for most men who want an easy to wear and go anywhere garment.

But for someone who has the build to wear it well, the DB overcoat can be pure magic. No manipulation of cloth can match the poetry of a superbly cut DB overcoat.

Cheers

Michael

[storeynicholas]

I like black DB overcoats over dark blue. Black is actually more adaptable, in my view.

[edhayes]

sheesh. I guess I am missing something. i have two blue overcoats. One is double breasted with a brown velvet collar and a belt in the back. one is single breasted with the buttons hidden and a peak label and cuffs. ok. I'm old but I like navy topcoats.

[ay329]

Manton do you have a DB Navy Peacoat? Would this be considered too informal for the needs you have planned for your DB overcoat?

If you have the above Navy color out of your system via a Navy Peacoat, you can then explore other colors for your DB overcoat project. Yes, the Peacoat is shorter but at least here in Los Angeles, for the unwashed masses, its about the most formal coat you can wear and not be judged as overdressed

[manton]

sheesh. I guess I am missing something. i have two blue overcoats. One is double breasted with a brown velvet collar and a belt in the back. one is single breasted with the buttons hidden and a peak label and cuffs. ok. I'm old but I like navy topcoats.

Ed, it was one of your blue coats that first made me think "Wow! I want that!"

[Manself]

I'd agree that turn back cuffs and belts should be saved for the polo coat - but will you tell us what cloth you have in mind for the polo coat? I love the idea of a polo coat, but I'm yet to see a fabric that is just the right shade.

Having opened my eyes to the wonder of DB overcoats I can't see a man in a SB overcoat without thinking he's missed an opportunity, although perhaps that's because the meanly cut RTW coats one normally sees are so inelegant.

I am interested in the colour choice - will you wear a solid blue coat with a blue suit? In my mind a blue suit calls for a grey overcoat, and a grey suit needs a blue overcoat.

One more question, if you were designing a coat exclusively to be worn with a dinner jacket what would you go for?

[Costi]

A Guardscoat has both turnback cuffs and a half belt in the back, but it is properly worn even with white tie. It does have more of a military flair than a simple dark blue DB overcoat, much like a navy blazer does over a sports jacket. On mine I only went for straight pockets instead of the traditional slanted ones. I find it quite versatile for both day and eveningwear.

[alden]

Michael, could you please recommend a grey overcoating cloth?

We made an outstanding grey overcoat cloth in the Cloth Club this winter:

LLTW10



I recently saw the cloth at my tailors and thought it turned out very well. The color is a prefect shade of mid grey.

Many of the distributors have gray herringbones in their books: LBD, Lessers and W. Bill come to mind.

Cheers

Michael