Vittorio Lemmi, Perugia, July, 2008

[Costi]

. . .
Since I won't be back in Perugia until next year, could anyone tell me if they know why the bottom buttonhole was sewn horizontally?

That is a not uncommon quirk. The idea is that it keeps the two halves of the shirt from getting too much out of sink as they slide around and, more importantly, permits some horizontal slippage at the bottom. You should always see it on formal shirts with a bib, since it is supposed to help keep the curves of the bib in alignment. Otherwise, not so much.
I can't imagine that it has any real utility, but it is a nice touch.

I know it is meant to ensure that the bottom button does not come undone because of the horizontal tension induced by moving the hips which pulls the fronts apart.

[Costi]

I don't know the answer on the button holes. My Bugelli shirts are hand made/stitched, but I have never really appreciated this. I am from the school of indifference on the handmade vs. machine made buttonholes.

The noticeable difference between handsewn and machine sewn SHIRT buttonholes is not just a matter of aesthetics and is only apparent after the shirt has been worn, washed and iron some 20 times: while the machine sewn buttonholes will lose their shape and start showing threads, the competently sewn handmade buttonholes will keep their shape and good looks and even improve as the cotton keeps shrinking and the knots get tighter and come closer together.

[tteplitzmd]

Thank you Costi. I like your explanation.

[marcelo]

. . .
Since I won't be back in Perugia until next year, could anyone tell me if they know why the bottom buttonhole was sewn horizontally?

That is a not uncommon quirk. The idea is that it keeps the two halves of the shirt from getting too much out of sink as they slide around and, more importantly, permits some horizontal slippage at the bottom. You should always see it on formal shirts with a bib, since it is supposed to help keep the curves of the bib in alignment. Otherwise, not so much.
I can't imagine that it has any real utility, but it is a nice touch.

A horizontal buttonhole may also be found on the sleeve, though the reason for this is not quite the same as the reason for a horizontal buttonhole on the shirt-front. Apparently, when the buttonhole is made vertically, the button may be placed slightly above or bellow the centre of the buttonhole. The allowed margin of error is important when several shirts are made at a time. But when the buttonhole is horizontal, no margin of error is allowed and this may be considered a sign that the shirt was crafted with utmost care.
This having been said, I must admit that none of my dress shirts features a horizontal buttonhole on the sleeve, nor did I ever thought of addressing my shirt maker with such a request.

[tteplitzmd]

Just a bit of follow up. The first order is back in Perugia, and I have asked for darts to be added, as the shirt is a bit full in the back. I also asked for the collar to be changed (again), which is my own fault entirely. I will not be back in Perugia this summer, so this is a hazard of long distance bespoke.

[tteplitzmd]

The shirts are on their way back from Perugia, having sat there for more than 3 months. Darts added and sleeve length adjusted. I don't anticipate being back in Perugia for at least a year. The workmanship and fit is good, the price right, but the lag times inordinate from my standpoint. The English speaking contact at Vittorio Lemmi is now a young lady named Christina.

[pur_sang]

No one mentioned that the stripes on the placket don't match the shirt!? Is that something only I care about?

[tteplitzmd]

Well, some of them match. I care about it, but not that much. The matching is going to be off somewhere: sleeves, yolk, etc.

[pur_sang]

I personally don't care whether the shoulder to sleeve match, because to make it match the sleeve often needs to be much bigger than needed. However for the placket, it seems like quite an easy thing to do as long as you pay attention to it, so I tend to fuss about it!