uppercase wrote:The only tailor that I have come across, in my limited experience, who takes this exact measurement is A. Caraceni in Milan.
I have only come across one tailor who takes the armhole measurement as well and he is a man in his 30's in Long Beach who talks to the old Beverly Hills tailors who worked through Hollywood in the 30's 40's and 50's. He is big on trying to copy the suits from the era.
I know all the measurements are important for a well fitting suit, though to me the armhole measurement is probably the most important. You can see the difference in how suits fit the men in the movies in the 1930's versus how they fit today.
Look at Sean Connery as bond and how comfortable he looked wearing his suit in all situations. Sitting on the ground and eating while watching belly dancers or hanging from a moving vehicle, his jacket would ride up little if any because the armholes were close to his armpit. Pierce Brosanan's jacket on the other hand move all over the place when he moves his arms, and he takes hi jacket off for many of the major action sequences because the jacket with the lower cut armholes is just more constricting. Just stuff I have noticed while lately watching the Bond films.
I also have to intrject Clark Gable in It Happend one Night. He raise his arms and the jacket stays put. Do what he did while wearing a Hickey-Freeman jacket and you's have the collar of the jacket halfway up you neck.
