First time advice ?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Rowly
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:03 am

Hi All,
I have just become a member and am delighted to be here. I wanted to get a suit made with a retro classic look. I am looking at a Dugdale Royal Standard 16 oz worsted in either a brown and cream dogstooth or a large pow. ( I think ref.. 8125,8124 OR 8126) would this be over the top for a 3 button 3 piece ? Would it have a luxury look and feel...or should I consider something similar in looks, but with supers/cashmere/lmid weight etc?....any advice?...Thanks.....!
Frog in Suit
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:15 am

Rowly,

Welcome.

Could you post a picture of the cloth, or a link to it?

Frog in Suit
The Doctor
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:53 pm

Rowly wrote:Hi All,
I have just become a member and am delighted to be here. I wanted to get a suit made with a retro classic look. I am looking at a Dugdale Royal Standard 16 oz worsted in either a brown and cream dogstooth or a large pow. ( I think ref.. 8125,8124 OR 8126) would this be over the top for a 3 button 3 piece ? Would it have a luxury look and feel...or should I consider something similar in looks, but with supers/cashmere/lmid weight etc?....any advice?...Thanks.....!

Welcome Rowly.

Dugdale Royal Standard II Bunch

All shown are 14/15oz.

I've made the first two up, both as 3-piece suits & they look great. Also I think the 8119 just has it over the 8125.

8119
Image

8123
Image

8124
Image

8125
Image

8126
Image

8127
Image

Hope this helps.

Edwin DeBoise

www.steed.co.uk

www.steeds-view.blogspot.com
Rowly
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:07 pm

Thanks for posting the pics...Has the 8119 a pinkish hue, as I'm highly coloured and prefer to tone this down? I also looked at 9726...a smaller scale, and lighter ver of the 8124, I think.

Would these be the types of cloth used on sr? If I go for a suit I want to get something special that doesn't look like another bus suit...perhaps a slightly country feel, but toned down enough to not look out of place in the savoy grill...am I on the right track..do you think?
thanks...!
Frog in Suit
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:22 pm

8123 or 8124 would be perfect for a "racing suit". Just add a brown trilby and a pair of binoculars... 8)

Frog in Suit
Rowly
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:41 pm

I was also wondering about John g Hardy worsted allsport in 7621, or 7630.12 oz..dark colours....Am I right in thinking that these are designed to look like tweeds, but are in fact worsteds with a smooth look and hand?....or would this be too equestrian looking to go out to dinner in?
thanks....!
Frog in Suit
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 7:08 pm

Rowly wrote:I was also wondering about John g Hardy worsted allsport in 7621, or 7630.12 oz..dark colours....Am I right in thinking that these are designed to look like tweeds, but are in fact worsteds with a smooth look and hand?....or would this be too equestrian looking to go out to dinner in?
thanks....!
Where would the dinner be? All of these cloths look very nice, but I think of them as daytime wear, and country wear at that....Lunch perhaps?

I wish NJS would pronounce...

Frog in Suit
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:49 pm

very sporty, indeed.
alden
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:58 pm

The Dugdale 16 ozs is great cloth.

The designs are day designs though in the country you get by for a casual dinner spot. If you were in town or going to a fine restaurant in the country you would change.

M Alden
palmer
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:24 pm

Dear Rowly:

I agree with many of the previous comments (i.e., day suit or country wear, etc.) and, as I have a suit made from fabric quite similar to 8124, I'll add the following: The fabric looks lovely made up in a suit but, in the wearing, proves to be a little brighter than you might imagine -- or a least it did for me. I like the outcome in my case, but I offer this for what it may be worth to you.

Good luck.

Best regards,
Jovan the Un1337
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:45 pm

Just my point of view, I think something a little more versatile would be better for a first bespoke.
Rowly
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Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:59 am

Thanks for all the help ! I don't want tio get it wrong first time and be put off. I was inspired by the pow 8124 thinking that it resembled the suit worn by Sam Neill in the last couple of episodes of Reilly Ace of Spies, if anyone saw it? Basically, I want something suitable for fine dining in the city...but with a bit of individuality and not looking like another business suit.
It is difficult for me to imagine the whole finished suit from a small sample.I see now that these may look too sporty and bright. I have an eye for the slightly country type patterns...but still want something subdued...rich but not gaudy...maybe eveningwear with a hint of country...as opposed to countrywear with a hint of city? In any case, I am looking for something that looks bespoke with a cloth that would not be seen in a rtw I do feel that pow's and dogtooths have a timeless classic look, however, I would be grateful for any further suggestions...btw, I am a standard size and have black chalk stripes etc in supers/cashmere etc from crombie and the like....which I currently would wear for fine dining....I hope these points will provide a better insight to my feelings on the subject...and perhaps help you guide me in the right direction?....I really appreciate the comments...this is so helpful !....thanks again !.
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culverwood
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Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:37 am

You cannot go wrong with a black and white hounds-tooth. I had one made myself and until I could have it enlarged no further it was one of my favourite suits. You will cut a dash in a city restaurant among the plainer blues and greys and when wearing it in town during the day I always felt like the country squire on a visit to the big city.

You can also wear the trousers with a morning coat if you feel like ringing the changes there too.
Frog in Suit
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Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:04 am

I would recommend going for a POW (or other) type of pattern, but darker and more subdued than what you have shown so far.

Here is an example of what I mean (Please forgive the atrocious photography, but I think you get the idea: a POW in one colour only, in a darkish grey). This is a 13 oz. H. Lesser, reference 29792:

Image

I think the same book contains several references, with or without overchecks in a different colour (reddish, blueish perhaps). I am sure other merchants offer the same type of cloth, in different weights. I would argue that the check (or other pattern such as houndstooth) takes it definitely away from business or city wear, but a darker, quieter hue would make it correct for dinner.

Why not ask your tailor for advice, anyhow, specifying where and when it will be worn?

I hope this is helpful.

Frog in Suit
Rowly
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Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:24 pm

Yes ! It's very helpful....and thanks for all your help. I think that having to chose carefully will make it more exciting if I get it right...although I would like to cut a dash...and don't want to play too safe !!! Best regards !
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