Illustration of the week #6

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Costi
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Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:12 pm

dopey wrote:And what a great comment from Alden:
One’s vision of life plays an important role in all of this. Those who believe in their immortality tend to play it safe. Those who delight in each day and understand a days quintessential finite value, like to risk. If mortality did not exist we would surely have to invent it. Some men late in life wake up and understand, hopefully before it’s too late. So my advice is to make a white suit now to celebrate that first birthday.
Indeed! Philosophical substance in a poetical form: "Those who believe in their immortality..." Nicely said :)
Happy birthday everyone!
mmkn2
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Sun Feb 22, 2009 10:49 pm

alden wrote: Image
For me this image shows the evolution my shirts are taking - away from the standard uniforms of white, icy blue and greys to more underjacketwearish patterns in greens, pinks, black brown, icy or lemon yellow, and sporty blues.

IMO, having well fitted and colored suitings allows one to be more adventurous with one's undersuitings.

- M
jb
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Mon Feb 23, 2009 2:42 pm

It is interesting to find others thinking along these lines right now, although I know that Michael is doing it with an entirely different climate in mind. Last week I picked up a pair of trousers from Chris Despos that I had ordered in the lightest gray flannel that I found in the books at his shop (Minnis, the first one in the book I recollect). When I picked them up, I liked the look so much that I am seriously considering having a jacket made to match. Even though it is a warm cloth, it is perfect for our late winter / early spring with clear skies when the days are getting longer yet the temperatures are still hovering around freezing. The dead of our winter seems to call out for tweeds, but each year the hints of renewal get me excited for lighter colors.

Cheers,
Joel
uppercase
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:43 pm

alden wrote:Well I have published a few wardrobe lists in my day while keeping the bare minimum for my professional life and investing in what pleases me. I have three off white suits today and the light grey flannel one is at end of its road. I would add as many a four such suits these days given my residence in light filled southern climes. That being said I am almost tempted to say that an off white suit is a requirement you would only understand after wearing one a few times in the right circumstances ie anywhere that sets off the dreary scuttling black.

Cheers

M Alden
This is interesting. What does your wardrobe consist of in Sicily in the Summer in terms of cloth and colors?

What are your casual choices?; or do you always wear a jacket?
alden
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Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:22 pm

This is interesting. What does your wardrobe consist of in Sicily in the Summer in terms of cloth and colors?

What are your casual choices?; or do you always wear a jacket?
Uppercase

Summer in Sicily and the Med in general can be very difficult to dress for especially when we endure the Sirocco from Africa and its sandy, humid temperatures that can reach 45 degrees centigrade. On these days we tend to remain on or in the water. Unlined linen coats are the order of the day if a coat must be worn and if not then linen trousers and a nice shirt.

I try to do physical work in the early hours of the morning, from about sunrise until 11:30 when the heat is too strong ( and I wear Carhart work clothes.) Then I retire to the cool confines of my home (Jin Bei) or go to the beach (swimwear) until about 18:00. The evenings are wonderful (relatively cool) and the citizens of my town all tend to gather in the center to go for a walk until the early hours of the morning, the Sicilian passegiata. I am just learning how to do it right. Three steps forward take about five minutes with friends chatting and enjoying the scenery. Then after the exhausting effort, one must stop for a moment to greet a friend, utter some witticism, or salute some darling thing, in a chivalrous manner, of course. I like to wear linen or Brisa suits or just their trousers with a shirt.

You see, boulevardiers do still exist in Italy and to some degree in France. In fact, scenes of community gathering still occur in cities and towns throughout Europe and the dressing phenomenon takes sustenance from these shared moments of repose and enjoyment. I would choose the light white gray flannel essentially for Spring, late Summer and early Fall when the sun is still strong but not homicidal.

You must have seen very similar things in Naples, the other half of the Kingdom.

Cheers

Michael
alden
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Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:45 pm

Even though it is a warm cloth, it is perfect for our late winter / early spring with clear skies when the days are getting longer yet the temperatures are still hovering around freezing. The dead of our winter seems to call out for tweeds, but each year the hints of renewal get me excited for lighter colors.
Joel,

These are my feelings as well. Nicely said.

Cheers

Michael
marcelo
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Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:40 am

alden wrote:
This is interesting. What does your wardrobe consist of in Sicily in the Summer in terms of cloth and colors?

What are your casual choices?; or do you always wear a jacket?
Uppercase

Summer in Sicily and the Med in general can be very difficult to dress for especially when we endure the Sirocco from Africa and its sandy, humid temperatures that can reach 45 degrees centigrade. On these days we tend to remain on or in the water. Unlined linen coats are the order of the day if a coat must be worn and if not then linen trousers and a nice shirt.

I try to do physical work in the early hours of the morning, from about sunrise until 11:30 when the heat is too strong ( and I wear Carhart work clothes.) Then I retire to the cool confines of my home (Jin Bei) or go to the beach (swimwear) until about 18:00. The evenings are wonderful (relatively cool) and the citizens of my town all tend to gather in the center to go for a walk until the early hours of the morning, the Sicilian passegiata. I am just learning how to do it right. Three steps forward take about five minutes with friends chatting and enjoying the scenery. Then after the exhausting effort, one must stop for a moment to greet a friend, utter some witticism, or salute some darling thing, in a chivalrous manner, of course. I like to wear linen or Brisa suits or just their trousers with a shirt.

You see, boulevardiers do still exist in Italy and to some degree in France. In fact, scenes of community gathering still occur in cities and towns throughout Europe and the dressing phenomenon takes sustenance from these shared moments of repose and enjoyment. I would choose the light white gray flannel essentially for Spring, late Summer and early Fall when the sun is still strong but not homicidal.

You must have seen very similar things in Naples, the other half of the Kingdom.

Cheers

Michael
Michael

Thanks for this. You did not mention, however, any kind of headwear. Does your passegiata also include, for instance, a Panama hat?

Marcelo
uppercase
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Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:16 pm

alden wrote:
This is interesting. What does your wardrobe consist of in Sicily in the Summer in terms of cloth and colors?

What are your casual choices?; or do you always wear a jacket?
Uppercase

Summer in Sicily and the Med in general can be very difficult to dress for especially when we endure the Sirocco from Africa and its sandy, humid temperatures that can reach 45 degrees centigrade. On these days we tend to remain on or in the water. Unlined linen coats are the order of the day if a coat must be worn and if not then linen trousers and a nice shirt.

I try to do physical work in the early hours of the morning, from about sunrise until 11:30 when the heat is too strong ( and I wear Carhart work clothes.) Then I retire to the cool confines of my home (Jin Bei) or go to the beach (swimwear) until about 18:00. The evenings are wonderful (relatively cool) and the citizens of my town all tend to gather in the center to go for a walk until the early hours of the morning, the Sicilian passegiata. I am just learning how to do it right. Three steps forward take about five minutes with friends chatting and enjoying the scenery. Then after the exhausting effort, one must stop for a moment to greet a friend, utter some witticism, or salute some darling thing, in a chivalrous manner, of course. I like to wear linen or Brisa suits or just their trousers with a shirt.

You see, boulevardiers do still exist in Italy and to some degree in France. In fact, scenes of community gathering still occur in cities and towns throughout Europe and the dressing phenomenon takes sustenance from these shared moments of repose and enjoyment. I would choose the light white gray flannel essentially for Spring, late Summer and early Fall when the sun is still strong but not homicidal.

You must have seen very similar things in Naples, the other half of the Kingdom.

Cheers

Michael
Yes, I know, casual dress for brutal Summers is a challenge, particularly when in smaller, in-land towns.

I agree that comfort is first and foremost called for, otherwise dress is just too contrived. Linens, cottons in a looser, flowing , elegant silhouette would seem to fit the bill. And though hot, you can't beat the drape and movement of gabardine trousers!

A seaside and a corniche, a cool evening breeze and tradition of strolling, adds another dimension to what one can wear and I suppose that throwing on a lightweight jacket in light Summer colors would work nicely.

This fellow below seems to know what he is doing though I do pity the poor duffer in the background suffering in his dark business suit. The business suit should be banned in these circumstances.

Image
alden
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Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:34 pm

Thanks for this. You did not mention, however, any kind of headwear. Does your passegiata also include, for instance, a Panama hat?
Marcelo

We wear hats in winter because we know that 40% of body heat escapes through the head. In the Summer, we need cover from the sun but could do without the heat retention. In this respect a Panama is an excellent choice, it is light and breathes. I have a couple of them, but in the evenings I prefer to do without. Its too nice to feel the cool breezes without a hat.

Cheers

M Alden
marcelo
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Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:54 pm

alden wrote:
Thanks for this. You did not mention, however, any kind of headwear. Does your passegiata also include, for instance, a Panama hat?
Marcelo

We wear hats in winter because we know that 40% of body heat escapes through the head. In the Summer, we need cover from the sun but could do without the heat retention. In this respect a Panama is an excellent choice, it is light and breathes. I have a couple of them, but in the evenings I prefer to do without. Its too nice to feel the cool breezes without a hat.

Cheers

M Alden
Michael,

Thanks for this. I had in mind, indeed, a Panama as a kind of headwear to be worn during the day. I would be glad if someone would start a thread on Panama hats one of these days. I would like to learn more about them, meanly because their construction requires so much craftsmanship. A good Panama may take as many as four months of weaving work.

Best

Marcelo
dopey
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:03 am

marcelo wrote:
alden wrote:
Thanks for this. You did not mention, however, any kind of headwear. Does your passegiata also include, for instance, a Panama hat?
Marcelo

We wear hats in winter because we know that 40% of body heat escapes through the head. In the Summer, we need cover from the sun but could do without the heat retention. In this respect a Panama is an excellent choice, it is light and breathes. I have a couple of them, but in the evenings I prefer to do without. Its too nice to feel the cool breezes without a hat.

Cheers

M Alden
Michael,

Thanks for this. I had in mind, indeed, a Panama as a kind of headwear to be worn during the day. I would be glad if someone would start a thread on Panama hats one of these days. I would like to learn more about them, meanly because their construction requires so much craftsmanship. A good Panama may take as many as four months of weaving work.

Best

Marcelo
if you do a search for my username and panama you will find several posts on the subject.
DD MacDonald
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:20 am

uppercase wrote:

Image
Uppercase, great post. Grant's look here has always been my favorite. Not complex, easy to achieve. Its not about the clothes, its about where he is going and what he is doing.

Still, the duffer in the back doesn't look half bad in the modern urban context, just doesn't fit here.

DDM
luk-cha

Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:54 am

i think Grants look in this picture is great and is very adaptable to today, now if i am remebering this correctly i think the sports coat is ether a light grey or light blue grey (it could be a flannel as it seemed quite alot of texture) paired with light beige or cream gab pants and the black with white dotted ascott, these are best seen in the car ride in the next scene's!
alden
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:09 am

Thanks to one of our members in Italy, here are the shots in question.

The coat is a light blue/grey Shetland and the trousers are a whitish gray gabardine. (The color is very close to what I expect to see in the LL white flannel cloth.)

In Naples, one would say “una chicerria!” While in the rest of the peninsula one would just say Chicissimo!

Image

Image

Image

This imagined couple is one that would rival the Gabin and Dietrich pairing for chic of the century.

Image

Grazie mille, carissimo

Cheers

M Alden


PS My next challenge, if you agree, is to duplicate that blue shetland cloth for theclothclub.
DD MacDonald
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Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:02 pm

alden wrote:


This imagined couple is one that would rival the Gabin and Dietrich pairing for chic of the century.

Image

.
Being a Yank, they get my vote. ;)


DDM
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