Trilby in London

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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cordoba
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Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:52 pm

Good evening,

I will be in London the coming weekend and need a new Trilby hat.

On my list are Herbert Johnson, Bates and Lock. Do you gentlemen have any opinions on the three makers? Or do you have any other suggestions?

Cheers

Oliver
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culverwood
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Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:58 am

I have hats from Bates and Lock and could recommend either. Bates is probably more reasonably priced and I would say equal quality to Lock.
rjman
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Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:01 pm

I don't know if Herbert Johnson actually makes hats anymore... the hat business seems very vestigial in the Swaine Adeney Brigg store which houses it.

I would go to Bates to see Binks the cat. Also it sounds like prices are lower than Lock and I don't think there's any drop in quality.
shredder
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Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:13 pm

As already mentioned, Bates probably represent better value than Lock, but you can certainly judge for yourself. If you feel like venturing out to Peckham Rye / East Dulwich, you can have a look at Patey whose focus is more equestrian / military / livery and the prices are such that they make Lock appear inexpensive. I cannot judge whether their quality is substantially better than Lock or Bates, sorry.
Concordia
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Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:01 pm

Are any of the various shops more likely to carry large sizes? (8 or 8 1/4)?
Frog in Suit
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Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:50 pm

Over the past twenty or twenty five years, I have tried at least Herbert Johnson and Lock's, possibly Bates as well but I cannot remember. I do remember that the advice I receive at Lock more than makes up for the difference in price. If one is experienced at choosing and buying hats that fit and look flattering, that probably does not matter, but for me it does. Moreover Lock offer at least four or five different models of trilby.

Frog in Suit
storeynicholas

Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:31 am

The smooth-finish Borsalino is difficult to beat in appearance (or cost) but Lock's wetherby and chelsea models are fine hats too. I agree that Herbert Johnson has become a vestige of its former self - as has Swaine Adeney Brigg - with which it is amalgamated. Bates' must be worth a visit in any event.
NJS
Jordan Marc
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Wed Jan 14, 2009 3:36 am

Oliver:

While English and Italian hatmakers once reigned supreme, the hatter of today is Graham Thompson of Optimo Hats in Chicago. If it's a beautiful fedora you want, Thompson's designs are heads above the other makers. Use your search engine of choice and explore the Optimo Hats site for a fair idea of what Thompson is capable. He does work for films, too, such as Road to Perdition and the upcoming Dellinger with Johnny Depp.

JMP
misterjase

Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:34 am

was/is Borsalino a popular maker in London?
storeynicholas

Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:32 pm

misterjase wrote:was/is Borsalino a popular maker in London?
Ah no - they are Italian!
NJS
DD MacDonald
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Tue Mar 03, 2009 2:58 pm

Lock' & Co's Weatherby model in a color called "Cork" is hard to beat - it's mid-dark brown and really works better with tweeds and non-gray/black/blue overcoats than the darker brown and green than they stock. Ask in the shop for Janet Taylor, she'll help you out.

DDM
Frog in Suit
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Tue Mar 03, 2009 3:27 pm

I am quite happy with the dark brown which, I think, goes with everything. I have never seen the "Cork" which you describe. I should inquire as you suggest.

I may try the Haydock (taller crown) or the York (wider brim) at some point. I was told on my latest visit that they may suit my head shape and beard. Much as I like the Wetherby, I find myself wearing a Voyager (which can be folded) more often, especially when I do not know in advance what provisions are made for storing hats where I am going. Hat stands are very rare these days, alas...and if in doubt, I just bung it into a coat pocket.

Frog in Suit
alden
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Tue Mar 03, 2009 7:14 pm

I have three Weatherbys and they are great hats, but we must try and save Bates. They have the Weekend model that is the true Trilby with a slightly shorter brim and higher peak than the wonderful, must have Burlington. Get them while you can.

Michael
edhayes
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Sat Mar 07, 2009 2:35 am

if you are in NYC, the best hats I have ever had are from worth and worth on 57 street. he willl custom make the bands and the liningsj
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