Dinosaur
I am under 40 so it is hard for me to say this, but today I felt like a dinosaur. Apparently, 3 button suits have been all the rage and the return of 2 button suits is something of a trend. Wow!! I thought I pay attention to clothes, but i can honestly say that this was all news to me. I really had no idea that 2 button suits were “out” and that 3 button suits were “in” or that this pattern has started to reverse. I guess I have been living in a cave.
I was aware that 3-button suits became all the rage, but not that the 2-button was now back. But when you have all your clothes custom made, you sort of miss out on a lot of RTW trends. I can live with it.
I read the journal article and appreciated their candor. It is all about getting men to discard old suits and buy new ones. I don’t understand how anyone can read an article like that and not feel nausea at how they are being manipulated.
I thought of you though when the discussion shifted to higher button stances on the new two-button. I knew you would approve even if the motivation was wrong. I also thought of you tut-tutting when I noticed the photos with all that shirt showing BELOW the buttoned button.
To change topics slightly, I have always struggled with the following. I low button stance on a two button creates a sense of dynamism in the swoop and length of the lapels. A high button stance creates a sense of proportion and balance. I have never figured out how to get both. Do you understand what I mean, and is there a solution. I expect to swear off suits and coats for a while but perhaps I will bring this up with Raphael. But I am afraid that if I do, I will end up ordering something,
I thought of you though when the discussion shifted to higher button stances on the new two-button. I knew you would approve even if the motivation was wrong. I also thought of you tut-tutting when I noticed the photos with all that shirt showing BELOW the buttoned button.
To change topics slightly, I have always struggled with the following. I low button stance on a two button creates a sense of dynamism in the swoop and length of the lapels. A high button stance creates a sense of proportion and balance. I have never figured out how to get both. Do you understand what I mean, and is there a solution. I expect to swear off suits and coats for a while but perhaps I will bring this up with Raphael. But I am afraid that if I do, I will end up ordering something,
I would suggest that balance can be achieved with a lower button stance if the jacket is a bit on the short side. Look at the photos of Astaire wearing a 2-button with a low button stance. A long jacket with a low button stance isn't the greatest look.
I myself prefer a high button stance, since that's where my waist is the most narrow, and I have found that my jackets hang best that way.
I myself prefer a high button stance, since that's where my waist is the most narrow, and I have found that my jackets hang best that way.
Interesting idea. I am not sure which photos you mean, and I will take a look. And thanks for wading through my typo ridden post. I wish there were an edit feature like on AA. I hit "post" much too early.Alias wrote:I would suggest that balance can be achieved with a lower button stance if the jacket is a bit on the short side. Look at the photos of Astaire wearing a 2-button with a low button stance. A long jacket with a low button stance isn't the greatest look.
I myself prefer a high button stance, since that's where my waist is the most narrow, and I have found that my jackets hang best that way.
Dear Sir,
To get the benefit of a high buttoning point and long flowing lapels, the secret is to make sure and cut the gorge or notch very high on the upper chest. High notch position goes with short back necks, long lapels and high buttoning point. The short back neck insures a strong seal between collar and neck as well as a perfect foundation for draping.
Conversely a low notch positions translates into an overly abundant back neck and low buttoning point given the same length lapels as in the previous example. The jacket will not adhere properly to the neck at the collar because of the incorrect back neck. It will not drape properly for the same reason. Because of the low buttoning point, no "natural" shaping will occur and either the coat will appear very cylinder-like or will have to be shaped improperly. This is the condition we see in 99.95 % of jackets, rtw, mtm or bespoke.
To get the benefit of a high buttoning point and long flowing lapels, the secret is to make sure and cut the gorge or notch very high on the upper chest. High notch position goes with short back necks, long lapels and high buttoning point. The short back neck insures a strong seal between collar and neck as well as a perfect foundation for draping.
Conversely a low notch positions translates into an overly abundant back neck and low buttoning point given the same length lapels as in the previous example. The jacket will not adhere properly to the neck at the collar because of the incorrect back neck. It will not drape properly for the same reason. Because of the low buttoning point, no "natural" shaping will occur and either the coat will appear very cylinder-like or will have to be shaped improperly. This is the condition we see in 99.95 % of jackets, rtw, mtm or bespoke.
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