Augusto Lemmi, Perugia, July, 2008

[tteplitzmd]

I visited Mr. Augusto Lemmi, tailor, around the corner from his son's shop, in Perugia. I had seen the article published in Monsieur:

http://www.noveporte.it/florilegio/maestriago8_.htm

Mr. Lemmi, used to go to Hollywood twice a year, and was tailor to Ch. Aznavour, amongst others. He is very proud of the articles about him, displayed in his workshop.

Upstairs from the showroom is a typical workshop. He has several assistants, one a man about 70, with a cogenital spinal defect, kyphosis,is shown sitting below. He has a wall of cloths, and had a grey cashmere morning coat in progress, for a wedding. The trousers I saw were replete with handstitching and up to standards of: "Authentic Neapolitan Tailoring." A traditional familly run tailoring shop.










In the bottom photo, the magazine page on the left, a younger Augusto Lemmi is shown fitting Charles Aznavour.

[luk-cha]

T it looks like you have an enjoialbe summer - di you take a plunge with this tailor?

[tteplitzmd]

No, only test drove the shirtmaker, his son. I plan to be in Perugia in another year or so, at which time I will plan to have Augusto do trousers, and possibly a Saharienne. He has a cabinet full of cloths, some of which are "vintage."

[luk-cha]

nice - it sounds like you have found a diamond in the rough, keep posting the photo's as i for one am enjoying them!

[andreyb]

Mr Teplitz,

Nice story!

May I ask you to post slightly bigger pictures in future posts? Our inquiring eyes want all the details!

Andrey

[radicaldog]

I have in my closet a two-piece suit Augusto Lemmi cut in the seventies (!) for my Father. It's a very English and rather rigid/military silhouette (no drape, and most importantly no concession to 70's aberrations!), beatifully executed. I had it altered, and it fits me well -- sort of. The cloth, however, is somewhat unusual (at least for a relatively inexperienced bespoke customer like myself): it's a heavy, dark brown chalk-stripe worsted by Keith & Henderson, Savile Row. I'd never heard of this cloth maker, but the cloth seems of excellent quality, if not exactly to my taste. And there's nother oddity, come to think of it: the trousers have no side pockets. I asked my father why on earth he chose this detail (or lack thereof), and he maintains that it gave the trousers a trimmer fit. But he hasn't replicated it on any of his other trousers, so I suppose that was a one-off experiment.

I have also seen two Italian Army officer's uniforms Lemmi cut for my father: truly masterful pieces. Moreover, if I recall correctly, my father told me that the second of these uniforms was cut by Lemmi and sent to him to without need for a fitting! And, judging from the pictures, it fit perfectly.

[tteplitzmd]

Very nice. Was your father living in or near Perugia? I understand Mr. Lemmi used to travel in the 1970's in Europe and Hollywood.

[radicaldog]

My father was posted to Perugia for a few years in the early Seventies. He then lost contact with Lemmi not long after moving to North-eastern Italy for his next posting.

[storeynicholas]

I respectfully agree - very fine work - the w/c - vest - is a little abbreviated - but the morning coat looks as though it has great style (may one use that word?) - and will finish very nicely.
NJS.

[radicaldog]

I've just taken some blurred (sorry) photos of that suit, but I can't figure out how to post them.

[storeynicholas]

I've just taken some blurred (sorry) photos of that suit, but I can't figure out how to post them.

It took me ages too: first, open an account at www.photobucket.com then upload, as directed from the destination on your computer (fairly straightforward), then open your message box in the thread and click on Img (above), then go to Photobucket and select the image by clicking on Img there - it will say 'copied' come back to your post and right click and paste. I hope that this helps.
NJS

[radicaldog]

Thanks, StoreyNicholas. So, here are a few pictures. The lining is not purple (!), but rather a chocolate brown, much like the suiting. Unfortunately one can only barely make out that Lemmi's 'brand' is woven into the lining -- in Italy that's usually the mark of a good sartoria (I wouldn't say it was a necessary condition, though; and certainly not a sufficient one!). Apologies for the blurry cameraphone pics, and for not taking the trouble of donning the suit (I'm in my pajamas and robe right now!).





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[RWS]

Nice buttonhole!

[storeynicholas]

Very nicely cut - only thing that I might change is the lapel buttonhole - I'd have it further back from the outer edge and a little bigger - but that is a minor quibble (and purely personal taste) - it looks like a fine coat.
NJS

[storeynicholas]

Nice buttonhole!

I agree that the stitching on the buttonholes is superbly accomplished.
NJS