Vincent Nicolosi retired?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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doccol91
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Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:58 am

The maestro is making a couple of suits for me and I have not heard from him in awhile, so I went on his website and it announced that he was retiring and his business is for sale.

Anyone know anything about this?
tteplitzmd

Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:15 pm

"Retiring" is not a word that comes to mind in describing the Maestro. Perhaps you will hear from him when he asks you for your out of state sales tax?
doccol91
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Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:18 pm

I know that you, and a couple of other guys on this forum, have had some issues with Mr. Nicolosi. But I will miss him if he is indeed retired, which I can not confirm because I believe he takes the month of August off.

Besides thinking he is a great taillor--to me he was a huge upgrade from the Savile Row shops I had used previously (A&S, Poole) and at a much better price point, and fit, than the Rubinacci suit I ordered--I like the guy a lot and have never had any personal issues with him.
dopey
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Tue Aug 26, 2008 1:13 pm

I know several members here who have had good results from Nicolosi, even if there are others who have not. In both cases, the clients know what they are doing and are no fools. What follows from that, to me, is that Nicolosi is a talented tailor who can work well with and for some and not others. That's life. Not knowing which side of the Nicolosi random client experience line I would fall on, I was never tempted to try as much as I admired the work he did that came out nicely.

If he is retiring, that is too bad.
tteplitzmd

Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:09 pm

Indifference to the customer's satisfaction is the defining trait of this tailor. Hopefully his remaining customers have not given him a deposit on their pending work.
doccol91
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Tue Aug 26, 2008 6:48 pm

Funny, I once thought about doing a slideshow on another forum where people could try and name the maker of the various suits I have. I wanted to see how often Nicolosi would be mistaken for someone else given some of the comments I read about him.

Unfortunately I am pretty technologically unsophisticated and never mastered the digital picture posting. I will say that Scott Shuman--the sartorialist--approached me on the street wanting to take my picture, convinced that my suit was from Naples, which in a way I guess it was. I didn't pose for the picture--thought someone in my office might see it and the teasing would never end. Now I wish I had.

I had a similar experience with someone who used to post on this and other boards frequently, who would not believe that my suit was from Nicolosi until I showed him the label.

Dopey's comments sum it up--he wasn't for everyone. But hey greatness rarely is universally agreed upon. From what I have read, a lot of people really did not like Picasso.

I found Mr. Nicolosi nothing if not accomodating. Far more so than any of the firms I used on or off the row. tteplitz, you and I are going to have to respectfully agree to disagree on this one.
tteplitzmd

Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:14 pm

Let me just say:

1) My Nicolosi suit is on the Ed Hayes model, you don't need to see a photo. That would have been fine if I was Ed Hayes, or wanted Ed Hayes' model. I wanted something else, which I was pretty explicit about at the outset.

2) While the suit is nicely made, and fit well after some more fittings, it resembles something out of the original B'way version of Guys and Dolls--think Stubby Kaye.

3) After being disappointed with how ridiculous the suit looked, I was not even able to get the "Maestro" (as in the Seinfeld episode?) to give me cuffs 1 3/4 inch width. He demanded 1 1/2 inch, and when I suggested a compromise to 1 5/8 inch he said no. Who needs this?

4) Aforementioned shakedown for out of state sales tax--I declined this request.

5) I really have only two complaints, since Mr. Dopey is correct, buyer beware:

It would have been appreciated if he had indicated at the outset his intention to ignore every request I made prior to giving him a deposit; then you have a sporting chance to say no thanks, and second,

The man's disinterest in my opinion of the outcome was at best a sign of contempt for his customer. There is nothing honorable about this man.

The reverence shown by some is lost on me. I have my doubts that he could deviate in any way from whatever he did. He was not the compleat tailor. There was a decidedly sadistic streak in his senescence. His customers should feel good about the opportunity to move on.
Costi
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Wed Aug 27, 2008 6:01 am

Dr. Teplitz,

May I ask, out of curiosity, why you went to him for a suit and on what were your positive expectations built?
tteplitzmd

Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:07 am

Very simple, Mr. Costi: I showed Ed Hayes a jacket I was wearing, and asked him if Nicolosi could do this style. The reply, as I recall, was "That? Oh yeah."

I don't believe Nicolosi worked from paper patterns. He had very rigid ideas on geometry and proportion. As I have written before, in the bespoke process, you can't tell until it's too late what you are getting.
Costi
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Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:41 pm

I see... Well, you put a lot of faith in him, to say the least.
In my experience some tailors are very open and don't mind following the client's instructions even if they don't agree with them; others, with more personality, may be reluctant to client input if it goes against their sense of what is aesthetically or functionally valid. I know you have very clear ideas about what you want in your bespoke commissions. Two swords don't fit in one sheath.
I understand you clashed on matters of style, not of craftsmanship or fit. I believe there are very few tailors endowed with such skill and taste that they will do a good job at cutting any style of garment. This is probably why choosing the right tailor is such a major factor in the successful outcome of a bespoke commission, much like choosing the right partner in a marriage. Otherwise, the spouses will end up hating each other. However, each of them may be perfectly capable of making someone else happy - just not each other.
After the succesful completion of the first commission, my current tailor confessed that, on our first encounter, he thought about turning me down because he imagined I'd be a difficult client who knew too much about the trade and would start micromanaging his work... Turning clients down is not good publicity for anyone, so they sometimes go against their intuition and take on what looks like a "difficult" client. Sometimes things work out well (as in my case), other times both tailor and client live to regret it.
tteplitzmd

Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:15 pm

You are very fortunate, Mr. Costi.

It would seem to me that the best thing to do is at the outset for the tailor to say, sorry, I don't (can't) do that. The tailor in my case, gets paid, washes his hands of it, and has no interest in my sentiments. I think that is the problem. There is something either dishonest or distasteful in the transaction. It is, after all, a commercial transaction, not a marriage.

I continue to be amazed at the policy of appeasement voiced by others. I don't think they would tolerate bad outcomes in most other areas of commerce. These are not insignifcant investments, at least for me. To wit, I made numerous trips up to NYC just for the fittings, which I don't think was understood or appreciated by the Maestro.
Costi
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Wed Aug 27, 2008 2:47 pm

Well, I think life shows it is actually closer to marriage than to a commercial transaction :lol:
The outcome very much depends on the shared tastes of artisan and client and on their compatibility, both in general human terms and in terms of tastes. Some tailors are the "artist" type (and, as far as I have read and seen, I would say Mr. Nicolosi succesfully embodies this type) and like to "interpret" the client's requests, rather than follow them ad literam and copy an existing garment.
Sometimes you hear your favourite piano concert conducted in such an uninspired manner that your ears ache. Other times you hear a piece you never thought much about before, so intelligently conducted and adequately played that you are surprised with how beautiful it is. And the ticket costs the same both times.
Now, if a tailor KNOWS he can't or won't do what the client requires AND takes the money AND deceives him, then this is a swindle. But I don't see why any well-established tailor with enough work on his hands would calculatedly do that.
Last edited by Costi on Tue Sep 02, 2008 2:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
edhayes
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Tue Sep 02, 2008 1:04 am

Nicolosi is not retiring, he is just being grouchy and the endless trail of investment bankers that make up his trade are weeping and not buying.
I like dr terplitz but his build is really not much like mine-its really hardly like anybody's-and he seems to have a gripe with everybody.
It is true that Nicolosi's view is that he's the tailor and you should listen to him. He's old fashioned-won't use zippers, won't make the sleeves short enough to fit my taste. However, his stuff never-I mean never-wears out or loses a single stitch. When I met him I was a shanty Irish guy in Homicide in the Bronx and now I'm in the International Best Dressed Hall of Fame so he did something right.
doccol91
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Tue Sep 02, 2008 2:35 pm

Here, here. Well put Ed!
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