Fullness

[manton]

I posted this newish coat on SF the other day, and the consensus there seemed to be that it is too full. I suspected they would think so, as the site trends younger and the members definitely prefer lean and clean (and short) coats.

I agree that the coat is full; it is fuller than much of my other stuff. I disagree that it looks too full. I think the silhouette is harmonious. And, in any case, it is intended to be a "go anywhere" travel jacket, as comfortable as can be. I just took it on a trip on which I wore it for some five days, virtually around the clock, and I can attest that it serves its purpose. I hardly notice that it is on.

Here it is at different times of day (on the same day). I think it looks baggiest in the last pic (last taken, too). I'm not sure why.

Leaving the house:


Early evening. Not sure what is causing the wierd buckling in the right shoulder:





Here it is without:


The cloth is fresco, and the arms tend to crease during the day. The wrinkles mostly fall out overnight, but after repeated wear some steam is necessary.

[Costi]

I like the fulness in your coat, it is about as full as I like my coats to be. And I also think that fulness works well with your long and lean silhouette - better, to my eye, than previous examples of leaner coats you posted. But that serves you right, if you seek opinion there

[Bishop of Briggs]

My preference is for lean, clean and long (e.g. Huntsman). Your coat is a little too full for my taste but if you are happy with it, that is all that matters.

[RWS]

The coat looks good to my eye, Manton. I'd prefer a 3B with more open quarters for myself, but it does look good -- and not too full for your height and frame. (I also think that Costi's right: you're not likely to find much thoughtful commentary in other web-based fora that I'm acquainted with.)

[kolecho]

Manton,

This coat looks perfect, and you look very relaxed in it. I also prefer this "fuller" coat compared to the more shapely ones you have posted. It serves grown-ups better IMHO

What fresco cloth is this, and what is its weight?

[Costi]

Has anyone noticed the first picture is flipped, or did we all focus on fullness exclusively?

[sartorius]

I like the coat very much, but to my eye (and this is very much a personal view) it does look a little full. I say this because of the way the cloth drapes at the bottom of the lapels (notice in particular the concave fold between the breast patch and the lapel).

[RWS]

You're right, Costi; but I didn't consider the obvious to impair our discernment of the . . . hmm . . . perhaps less obvious.

[manton]

The coat looks good to my eye, Manton. I'd prefer a 3B with more open quarters for myself, but it does look good -- and not too full for your height and frame.

It is 3 button, actually. Given the way the coat is crooked, I think the quarters look "right."

[manton]

Has anyone noticed the first picture is flipped, or did we all focus on fullness exclusively?

Not flipped; self taken in a mirror.

[storeynicholas]

I like this fit: there is: skimped; full and 'easy fitting'. To me this is just nicely full.
NJS

[dopey]

The coat looks good to my eye, Manton. I'd prefer a 3B with more open quarters for myself, but it does look good -- and not too full for your height and frame.

It is 3 button, actually. Given the way the coat is crooked, I think the quarters look "right."

The rush to open quarters is a bit of a current vogue. I like them, but I also like fronts cut like these, a bit more closed and with nice sharply curve corners at the bottom.

As for the fullness, I like it, but I often prefer the look of a bit more structured front that smoothes the fullness into a nice swell. But as manton once pointed out in response to some of my earliest posts: I would say that - I'm a Dege man.

[mmkn2]

the concave fold between the breast patch and the lapel.

In my simple analysis of fabric anything that droops means too much fabric, and anything that looks whiskery and taut means not enough fabric - so I'm going to agree with the above.

Otherwise, I just see Manton's signature bespoke look (not a maker's house look).

- M

[Mark Seitelman]

It looks fine.

I wouldn't put too much stock in the opinions of the folk at Styleforum where the skimpy, short, and tight look are the "house style."

[schneidergott]

Manton!

There is nothing "wrong" with the fullness of the coat. I'd say in your case it is necessary to equal the difference between your hips and the torace. If it was any leaner in the chest, it would emphasize the hips.
Well, as for the right shoulder: It's just a tired man. I noticed that your right shoulder is hanging more in the evening than in the morning. No chance for a tailor to compensate for that.


SG