Savile Row documentary on BBC

[luk-cha]

http://www.nedline.nl/cgi-bin/track/click.cgi?id=3

part 3

[stultus77]

The issue of brand exploitation, and the way many SR houses are diversifying, is a fascninating subject, and it was a shame that the programme makers didn't feature more of Gieves & Hawkes and Kilgour. G&H has rolled out dozens of RTW outlets in the UK and as a bespoke customer of theirs I do feel at times that they are diluting the brand too much. Kilgour have also gone into RTW, although still only on SR, having recently opened expanded premises. I personally feel that the design of their RTW line is great, but quality and service are shocking. I have never been a bespoke customer, but am unlikely ever to try them because of negative experience with their RTW.

If you compare G&H and Kilgour with high-end Italian RTW outlets like Zegna, Loro Piana and Kiton, there is really no comparison. That's when you realise that G&H and Kilgour have moved a hell of a long way from what they know best, and in a hell of a rush. I hope it works for them, but I'm really not sure they have their strategies right.

So, as I say, there is a great deal here which episode 2 didn't touch on. Perhaps we will see it in one of the next two installments.

Very much agreed on G&H's unfortunate attempts to break into RTW - their Tokyo store at the ultra-hip Omotesando Hills recently closed after only 1 year. I was in there a couple of times and the quality was not consistent with the prices being asked (even for RTW). Henry Poole and Richard James RTW quality is also pathetic to say the least.

To be honest, I hope more of these RTW ventures fail so these traditional tailors go back to doing what they do best (just in a more cost-efficient manner) rather than lose their soul by creating licensed crap.

[RWS]

I found the previous post interesting and informative -- right until the last word. Such a failure to communicate without vulgarity disappoints me.

[stultus77]

I found the previous post interesting and informative -- right until the last word. Such a failure to communicate without vulgarity disappoints me.

With apologies for introducing vulgarity into a discussion amongst gentlemen, I must admit that I know of no other way to accurately describe my utter revulsion at the RTW "clothes" that are produced under license for the Poole and G&H shops.

Besides, back in NYC "crap" is acceptable in polite conversation.

[marcelo]

Does anybody know where the ZIP file with the second part of the documentary on Savile Row at BBC can be downloaded from?
Thanks

Marcelo

[gherrmann]

Besides, back in NYC "crap" is acceptable in polite conversation.

For better or for worse, I would have to agree with this statement.

[Zandros]

Does anybody know where the ZIP file with the second part of the documentary on Savile Row at BBC can be downloaded from?
Thanks

Marcelo

At last, a chance to make a helpful first post. I put all three episodes of the BBC's documentary on http://adrianl.se:6090/89B3F/Savile_Row as well as "tailor made in Cumbria" for good measure. I hope Mr. Mahon won't mind. Additionally, the link that can be found on page 3 is still working.

The files are hosted at my personal computer, so I apologise if they will not stay there for very long.

/Adrian

[Aristide]

Having thoroughly enjoyed the first episode I was a little disappointed with the second. The concept was fine - focusing on SR's attempts at marketing and brand exploitation - but concentrating almost solely on Henry Poole and Edward Sexton meant that the programme overall ended up being very narrow. There also seemed to be a lot of rather needless scenes, for example with Henry Poole's "man in China" having to endure local hospitality.

The issue of brand exploitation, and the way many SR houses are diversifying, is a fascninating subject, and it was a shame that the programme makers didn't feature more of Gieves & Hawkes and Kilgour. G&H has rolled out dozens of RTW outlets in the UK and as a bespoke customer of theirs I do feel at times that they are diluting the brand too much. Kilgour have also gone into RTW, although still only on SR, having recently opened expanded premises. I personally feel that the design of their RTW line is great, but quality and service are shocking. I have never been a bespoke customer, but am unlikely ever to try them because of negative experience with their RTW.

If you compare G&H and Kilgour with high-end Italian RTW outlets like Zegna, Loro Piana and Kiton, there is really no comparison. That's when you realise that G&H and Kilgour have moved a hell of a long way from what they know best, and in a hell of a rush. I hope it works for them, but I'm really not sure they have their strategies right.

So, as I say, there is a great deal here which episode 2 didn't touch on. Perhaps we will see it in one of the next two installments.

I am confident in my recollection that G&H and Kilgour (actually, then KS&F) offered RTW (and MTM) lines in the US during the latter '80s. In fact, I still have (and can wear!) a blue DB blazer from KS&F.

[Costi]

At last, a chance to make a helpful first post. /Adrian

Very helpful, indeed! Thank you, Adrian.

[David the Tailor]

Thanks for the down load links guys. As a young tailor toiling away here in the "new world" it makes me feel a little less alone.