New Tailor and shirtmaker

[Scot]

Dear All,

This is my first post. I have had several bespoke suits made in Scoltand over the years, by tailors in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Would be happy to provide details if requested but results have been mixed.

As I travel to London a fair bit I decided recently to see what Savile Row could do. I did some research on tailors and here I have to say that Steven Hitchcock was very generous in offering advice via email. In the end it seemed to me that the firm was less important than the people who worked there. Given that Malcolm Plews appears to be somthing of an icon I plumped for Welsh and Jefferies. I made an appointment by telephone - Malcolm answered the 'phone himself and I went along to the shop last week and commissioned a two-piece sb suit. I could not have been more pleased with my reception. Mr. Plews was the ultimate professional, treating me with the greatest courtesy, quickly picking-up on issues of which I had been aware but had not mentioned and offering what seemed to me like sound advice. I am eagerly looking forward to the first fitting, which he indicated would be in approximately 3 weeks. Will keep you posted!

On the same day I went along to see Sean O'Flynn at Fallen and Harvey. He is making me a shirt and I will see how that turns out before ordering more. I was impressed that he was more than willing to do this and his prices seem reasonable.

Have enjoyed browsing the site and look forward to contributing, although I will learn more from you than you will from me!

[HappyStroller]

Welcome to the London Lounge, Sir.

Originally, I had thought a 3 week or a month long visit would be enough for a Savile Row bespoke suit, but now I realise it may be better to make several very short visits timed to coincide with the fitting schedules.

Apparently, it gets even worse where bespoke shoes are concerned!

I look forward to hearing more about your fittings experience.

[Scot]

Thanks for the welcome.

Forgot to mention I also ordered a Huntsman MTM blazer recently. It's now ready but it will be a couple of weeks before I can get up to town to try it on. Will let you know the outcome. Does anyone know where Huntsman MTM is made? I suppose I should have asked!

[Manself]

Scot, will you share with us your experiences with Scottish tailors? I'm originally from East Lothian and tend to look in at Stewart Christie when I'm in Edinburgh - have you had anything from them? If so, how did it turn out? If not, where did you try?

[Scot]

Manself, I have had four suits from Stewart Christie, the first about 10 years ago, the last 2 years ago. In one thread on here someone said that Stewart Christie did MTM but not bespoke. This is not true, or at least it used not to be true, since I am pretty sure that what I had could be described as bespoke. They are a very traditional firm, suits made on the premises and the service is excellent. After my first suit was made it was probably two years before I went back into the shop and the assistant remembered my name! Perhaps that is a reflection on the number of customers they have!

However, I have not been entirely satisfied with the outcome. Maybe this is a reflection of my own lack of discrimination at the time but certainly when I look at the suits now they are rather shapeless. I have also had persistent problems with the construction, particularly around the pockets - the canvas seems to get crumpled somehow (very limited technical knowledge here I'm afraid). On one coat the balance was completely out and I had to get it adjusted by my present Glasgow tailor.

Which brings me on to Antonia Brecht in Glasgow. Antonia has now made me two suits, entirely bespoke and entirely made by herself. Generally I am very impressed with her work. She was trained in London and she used to have a business in The City I think. She is the only tailor who has ever asked me what colour of stitching I would like for the lining! The most remarkable thing of all, however, is that she charges £900 for a bespoke two-piece! On the other hand she doesn't have a card machine so you need to go with cash or dust off your cheque book.

Hope this is a useful start.

[Bishop of Briggs]

Thanks for the welcome.

Forgot to mention I also ordered a Huntsman MTM blazer recently. It's now ready but it will be a couple of weeks before I can get up to town to try it on. Will let you know the outcome. Does anyone know where Huntsman MTM is made? I suppose I should have asked!

I believe that Huntsman MTM is made by Cheshire Bespoke in Crewe.

[Scot]

[quote="Bishop of Briggs"

I believe that Huntsman MTM is made by Cheshire Bespoke in Crewe.[/quote]

That is correct, I asked them on Friday when I went to try on the blazer. Seems very satisfactory although I am now wondering why I ordered it given that I could have had a bespoke one for much the same price from another compnay.

Had my first fitting at W&J, looking good, as far as I can tell. It's a mid grey plaid - 12oz Lesser. Hope to post some pictures when it's finished.

[Bishop of Briggs]

Malcolm Plews and Sean O'Flynn are excellent choices.

[Scot]

I posted these in another thread but I thought I should put them here also for completeness. I am pleased with the suit but I think that in the profile picture I am standing more upright than usual with the result that the coat balance looks slightly out (thanks Michael)






It really is quite difficult to stand in a natural way whilst having ones photgraph taken. I think I also tend to lean slightly towards the left!

This shows the cloth and some detail

[nicksally]

Having enjoyed reading your comments for many months I have finally joined you and am enjoying writing this, my first post.

I have recently ordered two suits from Cheshire Bespoke, as they are only 20 or so miles down the road from me. I was fortunate that Tony Lutwyche, the owner, was there when I visited, and so I was able to spend a very convivial hour with him.

The team there, led by Derek Vawdrey, and all long term Chester Barrie hands, really do seem to know what they are doing and the quality of the handwork I have seen so far is impressive.

The suits should be ready in a few weeks and I am really looking forward to my final fitting.

If I can master the technology, I will try and post some photos when I have them.

[NCW]

It really is quite difficult to stand in a natural way whilst having ones photgraph taken. I think I also tend to lean slightly towards the left!

Posture is really surprisingly hard. My singing teacher first introduced me to idea of Alexander technique, and while initially strange, the idea of lessons in correct standing alone is really rather sensible (though I have not capitalised on the suggestion and indulged). There is no shame in standing oddly, as we all have some postural defects which will remain unnoticed outside the visual arts (which includes of course all musical concerts).

[Azdak]

I can heartily recommend taking a few lessons in Alexander Technique. Over the years, we all develop bad habits in our use of our selves and, while bespoke tailoring can endeavour to conceal the symptoms, it is well worth taking time to address the underlying problem (ideally before one has commissioned too many suits). There are definite health benefits and, to my mind, it's a lot more civilised - and less strenuous - than something like Yoga or Pilates. F.M. Alexander himself demonstrated great physical elegance. A Google images search will reveal that he was also quite the natty dresser.