In the first test we want to determine the density of the cloth. Remember that the weight has nothing to do with the density of a cloth, you can have a very heavy cloth that is empty and you can have a lightweight cloth that is very full or dense.
So we will take the cloth between the digit finger and thumb and simply rub it between the two. Can you feel your thumb? If you can feel it, the cloth is either too loosely woven or made of inferior threads.
In the second exercise, we will test the vitality of the cloth: is it alive or dead in the hand. We want to see bounce.
Form a pincher with your fingers like this
Now pick the cloth up in the pincher and try to roll it between your fingers. The cloth should roll easily creating a firm and resilient wave. If the cloth crushes, collapses in your pincher such that it will not roll, you have a dead and inferior product that will neither tailor well not wear very long. Chuck it out the window post haste.
Now that you have learned these two fundamental tests you are able to judge the quality of the cloth that interests you with your own two fingers. No need to rely on marketing pitches. Just pinch, squeeze and roll your way to the truth.
Bespoke tailoring is an expensive endeavor, so never skimp on the quality of the cloth you use. It’s a losing proposition that is very easily avoided. If you must have a lightweight fleecy coat, buy one RTW to knock around in. If it falls apart or bags after a few wears, you can still use it for something and you will not have wasted a tailor’s time or your own money.
Cheers
