White tie

[Cufflink79]

Here is a photo of a Budd combo.

[img][img]http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg55 ... whitew.jpg[/img]

Thanks for the pic Storeynicholas.

Are the cuff link and stud set MOP on gold?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[storeynicholas]

Not at all for the pic. Budd don't do any publicity of their own and I had this picture taken for my own purposes. Glad to use it to defuse some negative comments about Budd here and there on the forum (bad finish - allegedly - one comment - this is the proof of the pudding to the contrary). I am not sure about the metal on the studs and links but the fronts are mop and, I think sold in the shop - possibly they are plated base metal - after all, although Budd is a gem; they are not jewellers!!
NJS.

[Valentina Iv]

RWS, Storeynicholas, thank you!


I have interest in this combination on this picture: there are 2 or 3 pieces? Shirt + front-shirt or + something else? Where I can see about all pieces of white tie? If it pussible, could you show every thing of this set individually?

Valentina.

[Guille]

RWS
I have interest in this combination on this picture: there are 2 or 3 pieces? Shirt + front-shirt or + something else? Where I can see about all pieces of white tie?

In storeynicholas' photo there is a formal stiff front shirt (the stiff front is part of the shirt, not a separate piece), a low cut shawl lapel single breasted three button and (I believe) backless waistcoat. There is a stiff wing collar, which is a separate piece that is attached to the shirt by collar studs. Finally, there is a formal white bowtie.

You can read about white tie and its pieces in many threads of this forum, just 'search' what you want to know about and it wil come up. I wouldn't recommend searching on the web apart from LL, because there are many webpages with low quality, misguiding or wrong information.

[DonB]

RWS, Storeynicholas, thank you!


I have interest in this combination on this picture: there are 2 or 3 pieces? Shirt + front-shirt or + something else? Where I can see about all pieces of white tie? If it pussible, could you show every thing of this set individually?

Valentina.

I suppose this thread might prove of value to you:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=7460

Regards,
Don

[HappyStroller]

It may be a bit difficult to see well because they're all white in colour, but the sleeves are part of the underlying shirt, while the lapels are part of the waistcoat.

This may be not in line with the current line of discussion, though the heading of this thread should justify this question, but what is a suitable design that enables a detachable single cuff to be connected to a tunic. The idea is similar to the role of a detachable collar; to enable the detachable part to be separately washed, starched and ironed to the desired stiffness. Presumably, there is a cufflink at the front end, but are there a single cufflink at the other end that attaches to the sleeve?

[RWS]

I know that shirts (just sleeved tunics, really) have been made with detachable cuffs as well as detachable collars and were, in fact, not uncommon from the 1890s into the 1920s. But I don't know how the cuffs were attached, HS; indeed, the cumbersomeness of attachment together with the lack of necessity (attached single cuffs will starch up nicely) have kept me from ever having such a shirt made. If you wish to pursue this, though, you could telephone Budd.

Valentina, Guille is correct. However, some men (I'm among them) stint at wearing backless waistcoats, just as they do at wearing so-called "pre-tied" bowties; so, then storeynicholas's photograph may show four pieces (tunic shirt, detachable collar, waistcoat, and bowtie) and ten or eleven connectors (three stud buttons on the shirt front -- I prefer two, as do some other conservative dressers -- and three on the waistcoat, plus two cufflinks and two or three collar buttons -- one in the front and one at the back or two at the sides of the back of the neck).

[Valentina Iv]

Thank you all for good comments!

RWS,

if I use detachable collar, a tunic shirt must be with stand-up collar? This is usual shirt?
I have interest - what construction does have shirt-front, how it will fasten on a body?

[RWS]

Dear Valentina,

Yes, the tunic will have a low (about two or three centimeters high) stand-up collar, which no one save the wearer will see (and he, only while he dresses or undresses), sewn onto it; this narrow rim has slits -- buttonholes -- through which the two or three studbuttons are first pushed. The high, detachable collar is placed outside and around this sewn-on collar; the detachable collar also has buttonholes, matching the placement of the buttonholes in the sewn-on, inside collar, so the studbuttons are easily pushed all the way through the detachable collar, too.

(This is usual. I once had a shirtmaker sew a evening shirt for me with the high collar sewn onto it -- the shirt therefore lacked the low inside collar, because there was no need for it. The shirt was a disaster! It felt odd and looked worse.)

A century or so ago, many evening shirts did have separate "bib" fronts that were buttoned onto the tunic with the two or three studbuttons centered vertically on the front of the shirt. Nowadays, nearly all evening shirts are made with their fronts forming part of the tunic, completely sewn on; I find this a better system, because it is easier to put on and to wear. Some evening shirts separate in the front, as an ordinary day shirt does, and others separate in the back instead; the back-opening shirts allow the appearance of the old-fashioned "bib" for the man who craves it.

With all good wishes,

RWS

P.S. -- A very few men still wear detachable-collared day shirts. On those, the tunic has a low, stand-up, sewn-on collar, just as an evening shirt does, but the detachable collar can be soft and folded down onto the body of the shirt. -- RWS

[RWS]

I should add that the bosom -- the front -- of an evening shirt is stiffer than the body of the shirt, having two or more layers of cloth, at least one of which generally is heavier and denser than the cloth from which the body of the shirt is sewn. For example, I've a cotton evening shirt on which the bosom is formed by a thickish layer of piqué sewn on top of the body of the shirt; another evening shirt is linen, and its bosom is simply a doubling of the same linen cloth on that part of the shirt front.

[Valentina Iv]

RWS, very interesting!! You are so kind, thank you very much! I shall try to do all variats.