Edward Green and the test of time

[alden]

I was reading a discussion about Gaziano & Girling that many of you are participating in to one degree or another. The basic theme of the debate is that EG is more classical English and G&G is more, or too, modern. I really do not want to participate in this debate but reading these exchanges made me smile because it took me back in time almost three decades when I used to listen to gents complain about the upstart John Hlustik whose “newfangled designs and styles” were just too daring compared to Lobb, “a real English shoe.”

Now many of you were probably in nursery school then so I’ll try and tell the story as best as I can. Lobb was “the English shoe” defined and perfected over generations and worn by any “serious” dresser. In 1983 John Hlustik bought Edward Green for one pound sterling and immediately departed from classical lines and started making lasts like the scandalous 88, “but is it a square or a round!” the gentlemen would cry. “In any case, these new Edward Green shoes look too Italian for my taste!”, was a common refrain or “this Hlustik will be the ruin of Edward Green and Northampton, the industry might as well ship out to Mee-lan--Ohhh if we are to be shod in such vulgar Italian styles.”

A few of us who journeyed up to Northampton to meet John and see the factory immediately realized a shoemaking genius at work. The styles had line, they challenged the established canons of elegance a bit, and they challenged manufacturing methods as well. Edward Green was making a near bespoke quality shoe and selling them in the RTW market “for the few.” John endured a lot of criticism and all of us admired him for it. He pursued his vision to the end, discovered his voice and the rest is history. I have seriously lost count of the EG shoes I own that were purchased in that period. The quality of make and material was second to none. And then there was John’s innate sense of style thrown into the bargain.

So the styles from EG we enjoy today were just "too modern" to a lot of gents back then. Looking back, this rhetoric must seem almost surreal to many of you. But that’s the way it was. I can remember Philippe Noiret, an inveterate Lobb client, being asked publicly about Edward Green in Paris more than a decade ago, his reply was something like “Thanks, I’d rather not..I’ll stick to Lobb.”

In this context it is perfectly understandable to imagine the same kind of dialogue regarding Tony Gaziano, another youngster searching his voice and challenging the status quo. From what I have seen over the past year or so, he is making great strides. Had John been able to stick with us a few more years, I am sure he would approve.

All this leads me to wonder if one day Gaziano style will be challenged by a new entrant and one of you will write about the beginnings of his brand and the hurly-burly it incited among owners of a real English shoe, Edward Green. I hope I’ll be around to read it.

[Andre Yew]

All this leads me to wonder if one day Gaziano style will be challenged by a new entrant and one of you will write about the beginnings of his brand and the hurly-burly it incited among owners of a real English shoe, Edward Green.

FWIW, Tony's mentioned approximately the same sentiment as above to me. He views himself as the upstart now with the accompanying voices of disagreement from the establishment, and says that one day someone will do the same to him. He seems restless in a good way, and wants to find his voice out there. He seems to think that the current English shoemaking industry has stagnated, as it will again in 10 or 20 years opening the door once again for an enterprising newcomer.

--Andre

[rjman]

The images below are of Hlustik shoe designs in the 1960s -- possible inspirations for an LL special order????

[alden]

possible inspirations for an LL special order????

RJ,

I think the Martian Disco Volante cellphone shoe, available with button or velcro closure, was way ahead of its time. I just don't see it in cordovan though, so its gonna have to wait.

Maybe Delos could make it for you, with skates?

M

[alden]

the current English shoemaking industry has stagnated

That could be said about many traditional English crafts these days. English tailoring, asleep at the wheel for years, has awoke to find challengers from every corner of the globe, and is now finally reacting with constructive work like the Savile Row Association. But it took incursions by RTW firms, upstarts on blogs and web sites to slap them about the face a bit and get them going.

The English cloth industry is not stagnate, its in a full fledged coma. I probably know the books of cloth and the weaving community as well as any non-industry enthusiast in the world, and there is virtually nothing of interest to be found in them. The clothclub, an assembly of amateurs having some fun, is being more creative and innovative than the blinking industry itself.

So I think there is a lot to be said for the cycles of change and innovation and Tony is leading one in the shoemaking arena.

Cheers