Anna Matuzzo shirts

[Guest]

Hello. I have noticed on M. Fan & Blog (http://mfanblog.blogspot.com/2007/03/fo ... uozzo.html) that Anna Matuzzo’s shirts do not have a split yoke at the back. I know that most bespoke shirts have a split yoke (mine do at least). I will be travelling to Italy soon and I have been thinking of having some shirts done whilst I am there.

Is there a reason why those shirts have a continuous yoke?

I have noticed the shirring on the back of the shirt where it attaches to the yoke and I am not quite sure if a split yoke would actually be such a good idea on this type of back…what do you guys think?

cheers

[Guest]

Matuozzo not Matuzzo. sorry about that.

[Guest]

I have, happily, been able to avoid caring about yoke types. I don't think it makes any real difference in terms of fit or style.

If pressed, I would admit to a slight preference for a split yoke but don't have any reason for that.

I don't think I like the look of handstitching on shirts and that would have some bearing on my decision whether or not to use AM.

-- Cantab

[Guest]

Most Italians do not use a split yoke. I am very skeptical as to whether it is a useful feature at all.

Anna makes shirts with and without shirring, and with and without hand stitching.

Matt

[Guest]

A split yoke only makes sense when fabrics with an obvious dessin are used(stripes or checks). Thus you can avoid trouble when cutting the back part. It looks better on, for example, a checked pattern, if the back has an oblique cut yoke. And it shows/ demands real craftsmanship to get the yoke parts to match at the seam!
But is has no effect on the fit!


SG

[Guest]

I always thought the origin of the split yoke was to accomodate different shoulder height / widths/sloping and is today one of the tricks of RTW to give the impression of a more expensive garment. That is by the way true, because you have one seam more (wich counts a lot when making thousands of shirts) but you can use scraps of shirting/lay out a more ecconomic pattern, wich would again mean savings.
And yes, it can look quite stylish with stripes and checks.

Pangur

[Guest]

This would be the basic pattern for a shirt. The red lines show the pattern before the 2 cm at the front part were moved to the back part to form the yoke.


This is the altered pattern for slightly sloping shoulders. This does have no effect on the back, it's just that the front part of the yoke will be more oblique than before, but hardly noticeable. A split yoke won't make any difference, fitwise. For extremely sloping shoulders I would make the back part of the yoke bigger.





The red lines mark the original pattern, the blue ones indicate the changes made to form the yoke for slightly sloping shoulders. The green lines show the final yoke for slightly sloping shoulders.

For a bespoke or custom shirtmaker a split yoke means more work from cutting to sewing, but I doubt that an extra seam makes a big difference when the shirt is produced in Asia. They might use it to create the illusion of a more valuable shirt, though!


SG

[Guest]

I was told at Charvet (where the house style is not to split) that they consider the split yoke a relic of times when men owned fewer shirts and tended to wear them for many more years than we do now. The split yolk, along with the side seams, allowed for some ability to alter the shirt as the client's proportions changed over the years. (Don't quote me on this, as I'm remembering a conversation that occured a while ago.)

Robert