sewing buttonholes for working sleeve buttons

[mathew]

Have you ever requested doublesided sleeve buttonholes or a doublesided flowerhole on the lapel?

[Guest]

No; I like to see the rough side.

[Leonard Logsdail]

I have had my own business for 34 years this year, starting in London. Travelled to 9 European cities and 20 American cities selling suits along the way. I have never been requested to make double-sided button-holes on either a cuff or lapel.

Yet!!

[T4phage]

I've requested it on the top buttonhole on my 3 roll 2 coats.

[Mark Seitelman]

Oxxford does it on its front and lapel buttonholes. This is a signature touch. Its cuff buttonholes are done by the retailer (e.g., the Oxxford Store, Barneys, Saks, etc.), and they are always single sided.

I haven't seen double sided buttonholes on other RTW, MTM, or bespoke.

I have never seen double side buttonholes on the sleeves. I would assume that they would add too much bulk.

[mathew]

Oxxford does all its buttonholes doublesided...but I've never seen a doublesided lapel flowerhole, even on Oxxford's RTW.

(Len)Yet!!

So you'd be willing to try it?

[Mark Seitelman]

I'll check some of my Oxxford suits tonight.

[Leonard Logsdail]

A correction.

When I stated I had never made a double-sided butonhole on a lapel, I was thinking about the flower hole. When asked, I have ruined a good lapel by adding one of these holes in the top of a 3 button, roll 2 coat.

[mathew]

(Len) When I stated I had never made a double-sided butonhole on a lapel, I was thinking about the flower hole.

Actually, so was I. I take it something went wrong with an attempt to make a doublesided flowerhole?

[RWS]

. . . . I have ruined a good lapel by adding one of these [double-sided button]holes in the top of a 3 button, roll 2 coat.

Ruined, because the stiff double-sided buttonhole inhibits roll? But, for those of us who do occasionally button the top button, not finishing both sides will create visual imbalance when the rough underside is shown (and knowing that the underside isn't finished might unsettle the wearer even when it's not shown).

[Mark Seitelman]

I stand corrected. Indeed, the Oxxford lapel buttonhole is not double sided.

Oxxford's stated reason for double siding the buttonholes is that the buttonhole suffers much abuse and use.

[mpolanthan]

I recognize handsewn buttonholes by looking at the underside and seeing that it is messy or rough. With a handsewn double-sided buttonhole, both sides are obviously neat. What other tell-tale signs indicate a handsewn buttonhole?

[Leonard Logsdail]

Beauty, truly, is in the eye of the beholder. I simply feel a hole in a lapel that rolls to the middle button of a three button suits looks terrible. That's what I meant by "ruining" a good lapel.

But, as i always say, "it's not my suit, sir. You must have what you want"

[T4phage]

Beauty, truly, is in the eye of the beholder. I simply feel a hole in a lapel that rolls to the middle button of a three button suits looks terrible. That's what I meant by "ruining" a good lapel.

But, as i always say, "it's not my suit, sir. You must have what you want"

...... you won't like the bulk of my suits!

[alden]

Leonard,

For the man who wants a three button but needs or wants a little more lapel roll, would you suggest a roll to 2.5 where the third button hole is only barely visible and not the gaping hole you rightly describe?