Shoe Choice

[Wiltshiresaint]

Having very recently joined the London Lounge I have a question for fellow members. I’d also like to introduce myself, but I’ll start with my query to assist those short of time!

I’m looking to purchase two pairs of shoes. One pair is for work wear (I have my own consultancy business and currently I’m working for a client in the banking sector, so suits are the norm). The other pair is required for more casual wear, perhaps with dark moleskin trousers, chinos, etc. My budget is restricted to £400, to cover both pairs.

I have two potential solutions in my sights, but speaking as someone who has never previously spent more than £80 on a pair of shoes, I would appreciate any alternatives that members may have to offer, or advice that would help me avoid making an expensive error of judgement.

For ‘business’ shoes I am considering the Wells, by Loach:

www.solelyshoes.com/acatalog/wells.htm

I have assumed a plain style is more appropriate when worn with a business suit, and since most of my suits are dark, I have opted for black.

For more casual wear, I prefer the look of a more decorated shoe in brown leather so I’m considering the Chester, again by Loach:

www.solelyshoes.com/acatalog/chester.htm

Both are well within my budget, but I suppose at the back of my mind I’m wondering, is this money well spent in respect of durability, versatility and overall good taste.

I have a very quick secondary question too. Is it good sense to fit metal studs to the soles of the shoes to improve their durability?

I'm sure my lack of knowledge in this area will be obvious,but I'll endevour to answer any points of ambiguity quickly.

On to introductions. I live in Wiltshire and work primarily in Bristol, although I do have opportunities to travel to London for meetings and a stroll down Jermyn Street and Saville Row are often added to my itinerary!

Only recently have I been able to consider buying well-made, elegant clothing, but my budget is still by the standards of the Lounge, regrettably limited. I would hope and believe that whilst a bulging wallet is a help in dressing elegantly it is not the primary requisite however, and with the assistance of Lounge members I hope to build a suitable wardrobe of clothes that are in good taste, versatile, stylish and above all elegant. In additional I will be seeking advice on the priorities in building this wardrobe.

The attire I currently have is acceptable by today’s (admittedly rather low) standards and hence I have decided to start from the bottom up with two pairs of good shoes, hence my question above. From there I’m not entirely sure where I’ll go – suits, shirts, jackets, accessories? I’m sure I’ll be posting more questions soon.

All that remains for now is to thank the creator of this forum and site. In a world sadly lacking in well-dressed and mannered role-models, I’ve already found the tone and content of this forum immensely reassuring and interesting.

[Concordia]

The styles you like are very classic indeed. I can't think of better for the errand you mention.

Loake doesn't have the greatest reputation for quality, but it is still likely a big step up for what you'd be paying 80 pounds for. If you can find some slightly more expensive alternatives (in non-designer shoes, this more often means "better made") on sale, you will be ahead of the game. In British RTW, Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, Grenson, Sargent, and a few others are well worth a look. Above your range at retail, but you never know.

The other real key to this is getting shoes that fit. If the Loakes give you a good, close fit and proper support, they will last longer than something made with better leather and more handwork, but on a last that doesn't quite feel right. Find a last and size that work for you, and your anxiety about shoe shopping will be much diminished. Either way extend the life of the shoes by not wearing them on consecutive days (or every other day when the weather is wet). Invest in cream and polish to keep them happy and safe.

Good luck.

[culverwood]

On one of your visits to London John Rushton Shoes at 93 Wimpole Street is well worth a visit for discounted high quality shoes.

[speedster]

Ive had shoes like those from both Church, Santoni & Lotusse.

But recently i have bought some sneakers @ yoox.com if youu use pp@yoox at checkout it gives you 5% + free shipping. But I would stick to brands that you have experience with.

Check here for a selection: http://www1.yoox.com/searchResult.asp/g ... 4/areaid/8

[HappyStroller]

You have a rather large budget, Sir. May I ask you to consider buying 4 to 5 pairs of shoes instead of only two? Of course, that means your shoes may have to be of much cheaper price and lower quality.

First, for executive work, you could buy two to three black captoes which you could rotate on a daily basis. You may have to compromise on quality, e.g., M&S rubber-soled instead of leather soles. That way, by giving ther shoes adequest rest in between wearing, they will last much, much longer. You would not need to keep replacing them for years. Perhaps after many years without the necessity of replacement, you will by then have built up some savings to replace each of the original 3 pairs slowly, pair by pair with higher quality shoes, without creating a hole in your budget or your credit card account.

Second, the pair you've selected for leisure looks too formal, unless you have a different additional pair for leisure use. Perhaps you might consider a non-laced. The choice of colour is alright, though I think a medium brown tone may be more versatile, especially if you're trying to cover all seasons, including Winter.

[RWS]

. . . . [T]he pair you've selected for leisure looks too formal, unless you have a different additional pair for leisure use. Perhaps you might consider a non-laced. The choice of colour is alright, though I think a medium brown tone may be more versatile, especially if you're trying to cover all seasons, including Winter.

Very good points. I strongly agree, too, with HS regarding rotation of shoes.

If one could buy a decent pair of brown slip-ons for less than £100 and spend more on two pairs of black captoes (varied by, perhaps, punching) -- for I do think that one should buy the best one can for comfort, appearance, and durability -- he'd do well. If he then sought over time to add better shoes to his wardrobe, he'd do better.

[speedster]

You have a rather large budget, Sir. May I ask you to consider buying 4 to 5 pairs of shoes instead of only two?

First, for executive work, you could buy two to three black captoes which you could rotate on a daily basis. You may have to compromise on quality, e.g., M&S rubber-soled instead of leather soles. That way, by giving ther shoes adequest rest in between wearing, they will last much, much longer. You would not need to keep replacing them for years.

I was forgetting these basics; rest for your footwear is elementary. And a definite first step toward getting a good selection of footwear. I would try for at least one pair of black with leather soles, and one pair with rubber soles. Maybe one additional for only office work, in other words a pair which you only use on days when the weather outside prevents you from arriving at work with a decent pair.

An other point witch I would like to stress is maintenance.
A shine before you put the shoes to rest will ad to the longlivety of the shoes.

An other thing I tend to do is, I always put non varnished cedar wood shoetrees in after a slight rest when taking them of. 1-2hrs of fresh air pre stretch I think is beneficial.
The cedar wood is good because it removes eventual odours, and the fact that they are non varnished gives the shoe the possibility to breathe. If possible a 3-piece shoetree.

I would also get a good shoe polish, a definete way of adding "value" to anny shoe. At what ever level of quality. We all have favourites and preferred ways of shining. I am sure there are threads here on both, if not I will be most obliged to give my 2cents worth.

As for the "casuals" i would also look at some none laced ...

[Wiltshiresaint]

Many thanks for the guidance.

I've taken all coments on board and raised my sights slightly by going for Cheaneys rather than Loake. It was a close run thing as I nearly broke the budget by going for a couple of pairs from Church's, but since I have much more to buy to get my wardrobe in order thrift prevailed.After much indecision I opted for a pair of Cheaney Westminster's for business wear, and Cheaney Tay's for casual use. I also purchased two cedarwood shoe trees to help me maintain them.

I've found both extremely comfortable and a real step up (please excuse the pun) from what I've previously worn.

Once again, many thanks to all who replied. I may not have followed your advice but I certainly took it into consideration.

[speedster]

Shoe choice is a reflection of personal taste and a privelege.
It pleases me you made a coice to get some shoetrees, and I hope these shoes will recive some maintenance so you ensure the longlivety of your investment.

Speed

[Ray]

Dear Wiltshiresaint,

What ever style of shoe you decide to buy I think you would regret not buying calf leather shoes, which from makers such as Crockett & Jones, Cheaney and Barker are well within your budget. These days the alternative seems to be what I’ve heard described as corrected leather. It has a very shiny plastic appearance and to my mind looks ghastly. I once had the misfortune of showing a friend how to polish a pair. The polish sort of gets pushed around the surface. You will never achieve that deep polished look. My grandfather used to say a gentleman wouldn’t dream of wearing out new shoes unless they’d been polished at least twenty times.

Good luck
Ray

[storeynicholas]

R E Tricker in Jermyn Street and the city sell good quality ready-made black oxford punch cap shoes in their Belgravia range but I would suggest two things - forget the casual shoes at the moment and buy at least two pairs of city shoes - you could have one pair of the oxford with the single line of tooling across the toe cap and one with none. I say this because I agree with some of the posts above that you need to rotate shoes and never wear the same pair two days running; ideally they should be allowed to dry out inside for one day and have the trees back in for at least one more. this means that ideally, with a limited budget, you should have a minimum of three pairs of city shoes. I can't say that I'd go with buying many more pairs with a limited budget and you will find, if you follow this advice, that you will have three pairs of excellent shoes which will last much longer, if rotated, than one or two pairs of the same not properly rotated and much, much longer than five or six pairs of cheaper shoes - so look at it as a long-term investment. Also watch the sales in New & Lingwood and Tricker's. Sometimes, also New & Lingwood sell off uncollected bespoke work where the customer has not collected - very much pot luck but you can find real winners. Overall never compromise quality for quantity - the reverse of 'never mind the quality, feel the width' . Crockett & Jones are also good and competitively price; Edaward Green in the Burlington Arcade and Jermyn Street and Foster's are pricier but they also have seasonal sales. As with all sales, go early to find the colour, size and style that you prefer.
Nicholas Storey.

[MaestroUK]

With the sales now on i would def visit Edward Green, i was there yesterday and the sale is on with some good deals, though you may have to stretch to £500 for 2 pairs. Chruchs can always be a safe bet and oliver Sweeny for a more modern look is around that money too.