Vol. I No. IV (July 05') Summer / Resort guide AA / Esky

[Etutee]

I was pondering over for the topic for our regular AA/Esky writing when I read Mr. Alden’s “summer chic” thread. That…along with the summer days made me want to expound on this topic of summer time dressing. I was fortunate enough to find a very interesting (& incredibly detailed) article about summer-wear along with its original text. It was a tedious task to type all the info but I am happy at the final result. The hard part was Not the article itself…it was the pictures. I figured, if I were to type a long detailed guide it will always be prone to being somewhat boring….Unless it accompanied some well rendered pictures. So the hunt began. More than often I run into the obstacle of finding only black and white or mono-chromatic illustrations that accompany their text. While, those still being perfectly gorgeous…can never compare with their full color counterparts, which are on par over much else. So I had to delay this post over and over until I was fully satisfied with my search for color illustrations. Fortunately it all turned out well…at least in my humble opinion. I will let you fine gents decide on the rest.

Here is the link for Mr. Alden’s summer chic thread. Please view that also.

Summer Chic

From Spring 39'

Time was when vacation, to the average office worker, meant two weeks off with pay during the dog days, with a choice of spending it at the mountains or the shore, and plenty glad to get that. But advertising, with its insidious means of spoiling us for anything but the best, has extolled the virtues of the winter vacation to a point where we have even begun to feel a little sorry for the poor chap who must spend his holiday lying under the summer sun. Not for him the “glamour-laden breath of exotic ports”—“the potent spell of old-world villages”—alas, not even a casual reference to Sloppy Joe’s or Dirty Dick’s, or whatever high spot is included in the itinerary of the luxury liner destined to enliven his conversational sallies.

And so the mid-winter exodus is on. And, strangely enough, the cruise does manage to live up to its optimistic build-up, which is why we have elected, in this second of its correct clothing series, to analyze the fundamental requirements of the cruise wardrobe.

The first consideration is to get you on the boat looking like a seasoned wayfarer, and whether you’re getting away from it all for a four-day jaunt or a ‘round the world cruise, your getting away outfit is substantially the same.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (2) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

A California weight* polo coat of camel’s hair or, alternatively, a tweed coat; a soft felt hat, a single or double breasted grey flannel suit (this might carry chalk stripes); brown calf or reverse calf shoes; a soft colored shirt; a striped or figured tie, and just to complete the picture a pair of gloves.

* Read light weight. This is one of the more unusual references to the western state of California. Usually they were quite reluctant to mention anything within the vicinity of Hollywood. Remember, these were the 30s when everything ever stylish (in US) came from NY or upper Eastern states (which in turn were heavily influenced by the English styling) Not anywhere else.


From summer of 37’

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (3) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

This is your color representation for the first sketch. Shown here is an SB peak lapel 2 button flannel suit in medium weight light grey shade. Optimo crown Panama hat, reverse calf shoes, lightweight shirt in blue, dark blue colored foulard tie and a camel hair topcoat completes the outfit. Note the zero-break on pants. This illustration is in complete accordance with their recommended resort wear list. You may forgo the peak lapel and opt for the customary notch lapels. However, peak lapels are indeed a stylish detail.

Now you’re on the boat. The bon voyage boys have departed, you’re wondering where they hide the bar, and who is the lovely thing with all the orchids. You’re off—but first this is what you should be preparing to un-pack:

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (4) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

For a short cruise (four days to a week), you’ll want a tweed sports jacket, a pair of grey, white or fawn flannel slacks, and a tweed cap. This is for wear abroad ship. In addition to the suit you’ve worn to the boat you might take a suit of Palm Beach cloth, or synthetic fabric* for ports of call in the tropics. Three shirts, a couple of sports shirts in lisle, cotton or wool, and a sleeveless or long-sleeved sweater for cool days on deck will prove adequate.

• Nine times out of ten they refer to Rayon blends in combination with silk, cotton or linen.

Here is a color representation of something that closely resemble the outfit described above in sketch 2. This is from Early 36’.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (5) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

This is a gabardine 2-button jacket (weight around 11-13 oz), which can be part of a suit or separate worn with white button-down shirt, red foulard tie, grey flannel pants, combination brown & white shoes, white pocket square, and an Optimo crown panama hat completes the outfit. Noteworthy articles here are the cut of the jacket along casual “soft” lines which co-ordinates well with the full cut of the pants. Observe the shoulder line and the lighter colored socks. On shoes, carefully note the elongating effect.


Three pairs of shoes will cover a multitude of activities—the shoes in which you came aboard; rubber or crepe-soled shoes in white buck, brown buck or combination saddle (you may substitute colored canvas if you like) to prevent you from falling on your face on slithery decks, and finally patent pumps or patent monk front shoes* for evening wear. You’ve taken your dinner jacket, and since formal wear abroad is on the informal side, this is a double breasted model, in mid-night blue.**

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (6) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

You will wish, if you haven’t taken it, that you had brought an extra white dinner jacket, with black lightweight dress trousers in the same material as the jacket. With these two outfits wear soft shirts—silk, broadcloth or pique (Marcella) with a soft or stiff white turn over collar. Contrary to a prevalent theory it is not incorrect to dress the first night out, but it is not customary.

*This use of monk front as semi-formal evening shoes was Only recommended for cruise wear, and only as an alternative, as mentioned above. The most correct foot-ware for formal evenings is plain tip/front oxford or pumps. Pumps can be in calf or patent leather.

** This must be clearly understood once and for all that a double breasted dinner jacket is less formal than a customary SB peak lapel DJ (when worn with a correct black tie vest). Analogous to the formality of a 3-pc SB suit & a 2 piece DB, where 3-pc SB is more formal of the two, similarly, the dinner jacket is no different. So, a DB dinner jacket is a notch less formal than its SB counterpart (worn with a vest) NOT more. Since a vest is never worn with DB dinner jacket there is no need for us to discuss its respective formality.

Much has been written about the “correct” black-tie attire and other members have explained it much better, hence no need for me to go into that any further.

Here is the color representation of Sketch 3. From early 36’ here is a DB DJ with satin faced lapels.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (7) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

Observe the width & shape of the lapels. Note that this is worn with both button fastened (middle and lower). In gent’s hands is the light weight camel coat prescribed above in sketch 1. It can be of covert cloth also as another option.

Of course you haven’t forgotten that you will want to bring your bathrobe or a terry robe—you’ll need it—especially around the swimming pool. And that goes for the swimming trunks too, knitted or cloth, as you will.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (8) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

One sizeable piece of luggage should take all the foregoing, and we’re not going into the underwear question for two very good reasons. One is that you know how often you change your underwear and nothing we could say would even make you change your mind. The other is that we (AA/Esky) never report anything that we haven’t actually seen worn.*

* This is worth noting. This was their claim that anything presented anything out of their imagination but only what was observed. How true this was is hard to say but its a safe but that it was most often the case than not.

Here is a color illustration of Sketch 4 maybe even more stylish. From 36’. (Probably the hardest picture for me to find.)

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (9) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

Ribbed swimming trunks, with colored waistband, light weight robe with contrasting lining, cuffs and lapels. This beautiful robe is a direct derivative (in terms of styling) from the smoking jacket or 3-quarter length cocktail jacket. Those, however, were always worn at semi-formal occasions at home or club and were quite often in velvet. Note the similar lapel & cuff schematics.

The long cruise requires a wardrobe similar to that for the short cruise, but well amplified. You’ll need two or three odd sports jackets, additional pairs of shoes, a dozen shirts, and a variety of slacks.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (10) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

A flannel blazer and a colorful scarf strike a note on board, and will be useful upon various occasions on-shore, such as at the beach club.

Here is something truly worth looking. A color illustration for sketch 5. This is from Spring of 38’ in Bermuda.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (11) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

The maroon blazer on the left is a classic 2 button SB model of homespun tweed with patch pockets and brass buttons, worn with fine white doeskin trousers…a common sighting for Bermuda back then….brown and white straight tipped shoes, and a white foulard scarf worn over a light weight crew-neck shirt of cotton lisle.

This outfit is perfectly correct for the breakfast on board or at resorts, not to mention for an early set of tennis as well.

I remember a question posted by a gentleman elsewhere, who was concerned about the fact that green or red blazers may end up looking too much like the uniforms of the serving crowd (at resorts or hotel). Now how can a person wear these two time-honored colors yet still be distinguishable from the servers?

Observe the gent with the red blazer on carefully. One look at it, and I am sure you will agree…there isn’t even the lightest doubt that the gent could ever be mistaken for the serving/hotel crowd. Why you will ask…naturally it’s the collective whole of the ensemble not to mention presented in front of a leisurely background.

The single most discriminating item (from the uniformed types) here is the use of foulard scarf! The jacket it self is interesting in that it has only one button at the sleeve (a mark of in-formal jackets back then) and as such is different from the 4 button RTW mass produced jackets of today. Next are the trousers, which are of white color but can be perfectly well of grey or khaki, beige, tan variety…another differentiating aspect for you to consider. Finally we have the shoes…a no-brainer for anyone…no hotel chain will ask their staff to wear combination shoes. Pure white buck can be substituted here as well…without much trouble. Observe the chisel toe on the shoes above…a very interesting note.

So as a collective whole…the outfit is remarkably simple and yet elegant. This should give you some ideas to start with. Other options may include the use of a rather colorful pocket square or you may change the styling of the jacket itself by the addition of a bi-swing plate…maybe even a half belted back.

The other suit in the picture above is a 4 button DB (with lapels rolled to bottom button) with patch pockets in the (then popular) Burma shade. A light green oxford button-down collar shirt and India madras tie in green reddish motif, casting a predominantly brown hue, liven the sedate tone of the suit. The shoes are reversed calf in monk front model and planter’s shape Panama hat wards off the midday sun with its wider brim. We will come back to this outfit in a while.

Note the use of now famous button-down collar shirt & DB suits combination. Carefully observe the setting, the fabric, the cut of the suit and you will realize that it’s a cleverly smart combination for dressing. This same combo of course was an all time favorite of Fred Astaire, who used it thoroughly with his city / town suits and always appeared resplendently correct mainly because such was his style. Another smart idea is to use the button-down shirt with your SB 3pc town or country suiting in darker colors. For some strange reason the combination of a 3-pc and button down shirt always appeals to me very much.

However, I would highly recommend that before indulging in this lost practice (town suiting with button-down shirts); you must learn to fully appreciate the respective formality of a 3-pc suit and that of the button down collar. Once you have done so, this combination will certainly appeal to your fancy more than if you were merely copying it because somebody else wore it like that.

Moving along…

Deck games are played in light-weight slacks.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (13) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

Now a color representation of the above mentioned sketch. This is from 35’ winter-36’ cruise wardrobe.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (14) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

For games, a lisle sport shirt with horizontal stripes in black and white, a silk blue & white kerchief and red rubber soled buck shoes. Note the black solid collar on the shirt, though it can be of the same striped fabric also. Another interesting outfit that was observed is the use of hounds tooth pattern shirt in similar style. I am confident to say that those are probably a lot harder to locate these days than the striped ones. For yet another option you may opt for the full or short sleeved regular shirt (full buttoned closure) carrying a similar striped pattern.
In this above picture note the use of double pleats and the absence of a belt. Also noteworthy is their position at the waist where they are worn.

Another illustration to look at is this below. From early winter35-36 era.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (15) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

Over here we have light blue and black Herringbone pattern polo shirt of light wool worn with grey flannel slacks, pork pie hat of light weight felt, and brown and white golf shoes. This version can also be worn in a regular full sleeved model. Note the presence of pleats and the absence of a belt (no loops).

On a longish cruise there will be days when you’ll be grateful that we reminded you to slip a raincoat into your bag. In addition to your regulation midnight blue evening kit you should have a tropical dinner jacket.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (16) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

The polo or tweed coat in which we sent you abroad is right for deck wear, right over evening clothes (see black DJ picture above), and right for cooler weather at ports of call…you can’t go wrong in it as far as a coat is concerned.

A color picture for above mentioned DJ from winter 35-36’.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (17) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

The most interesting point in this illustration is the use of white silk shirt and ribbed silk faced lapels on the jacket instead of the customary self-faced. The most time-honored and best recommended styling is indeed with self faced lapels and with color being an off-shade of white rather than pure white. However, both are perfectly correct.

This topic of white DJ was addressed in another thread with detail. Kindly see the link below to be directed to that thread.

White Dinner Jackets Thread

For cruising in the hot sun, colorful beach slacks and shirt and shorts outfit in bold colors (blue, wine, green etc.); for cruising on cool days, the more sweaters the merrier, sports shirts in wool, cotton and lisle, and your flannel slacks.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (18) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

This above mentioned is a “beach suit” which is basically a sports shirt (often cut similar to a jacket) and pants cut from the same light weight fabric. Below is the color illustration from mid-summer of 38’.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (19) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

This is the outfit imported then from Monte Carlo, and was described by their editors as being of the very best taste in Beach fashions. It started appearing in fashionable circles sometime mid-30s and from then onwards gained massive support from others as well. This is of the washable fabric with shirt being sung at the waistband creating a subtle blousy effect, combination brown & white Norwegian model moccasins with white part being of buck / suede. Note that the pants are plain front with no belt loops…& therefore no belt present. Pants have the natural turn-over, which basically means are straight hem but folded over rather than carrying permanent cuffs. Pocket Square in shirts pocket is maroon foulard.

Other items are The Hawaiian cotton swim trunks in original native coloring and pattern, an unusual light weight necker-tie in a marine design, and goat skinned sandals observed at various fashionable southern resorts.

Many ports of call in South America are metropolitan cities and these call for ordinary business clothes—you’ll find your flannel suit, felt hat and brown shoes fill the bill perfectly.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (20) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

Formal evenings in these cities find the tailcoat in evidence. The Riviera, between November and April, demands spring clothing—lightweight tweeds and flannels. Gabardine, seersuckers and cotton suits are all good when you hit the tropics.

Now here is where we will hark back to the Bermuda picture with red blazer above. The suit on the right side; a DB 4 button patch pocket should fit the bill here and will provide you with all your sartorial needs.

Another option that you have is the use of an SB model in light weight fabric maybe even silk. Kindly see this link below to observe this other outfit.

SB Patch Pocket Silk Suit

This same color scheme appeared over and over again for proper resort / cruise suiting.

In Hawaii and South Seas, clothing of linen, white drill and Palm Beach are in order.

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (22) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

We haven’t mentioned lightweight headgear because if you couldn’t resist the cruise catalogue how could you resist buying a panama in the Canal Zone? And if Jamaica has called so will a floppy Jippi Jappa*; and the natives of Nassau weave hats from the braids of coconut tree. You may even come back to astound family with a wide-brimmed porous straw with a colorful puggree band—and why not? If you’ve ever had a yen to wear a cork sun-helmet, here’s your chance—pick it up at any one of the little local general stores in the West Indies.

Jippi-Jappa: Made from the leaves of a palm like tree, which yield fibers that are plaited into hats, which are now-a-days almost extinct…at least in US.

A wardrobe trunk isn’t essential, as most of the liners have adequate closet space. Two or three suitcases are usually sufficient.

Under the heading of incidental information, it should be mentioned that the travel wise usually make a point of unpacking and arranging their clothing in closets as soon as they arrive on board the ship. This is common sense for the traveler under any circumstances and a special bit of forethought on the part of the voyager, since pressing expenses are apt to run comparatively high abroad ship. A corollary injunction is to take along sufficient linen to last you for as much of the duration of the trip as is feasible, since laundering is also expensive.

When visiting ports of call you will be well advised to think twice before purchasing every item that happens to strikes your fancy. It isn’t the first cost—it’s the upkeep, since there is a taxable duty on incoming ships.

Following is standard tipping practice: Cabin steward, $5.00 or more if he has surpassed himself; bath steward (if you haven’t a private bath) $2.50; dinning room steward, $5.00 to $7.00; chief steward, $2.50; wine steward, $1.50 ; deck steward, $1.50; head bar man (depending upon his services) $2.50; and if they pass the hat for the crew, throw in $1.00. These apply to a cruise of approximately two-weeks—apply pro rata rates to a longer or shorter cruise. If you want to change currency before putting in at ports of call, see the purser.

If you leave your shoes outside your cabin at night you’ll find them there in the morning—but cleaned or polished. Don’t attempt to lunch in the dinning room in deck clothes—either have your luncheon served on deck or slip on a jacket and cover your Adam’s apple with a neckerchief. And don’t forget…sun-glasses, sun-oil, camera, a bathing bag, shoe-horn, field glasses, fountain pen, brush and comb, hair lotion, talcum powder, and a present for Aunt Emma. Aloha oe!

So there you have it. I must confess to being totally astonished by their recommended tipping practices. Let us not forget that these prices were in 30s.

Last but not least... seriously consider this illustartion from Nassau. Timeline is early 39' crusie season

Vol. I No. IV (July '05) Page (24) by The London Lounge, on Flickr

This should provide you with a whole different venue to look at. This suit is of 3 button grey flannel (mid weight around 11-13 oz) and is nothing short of a revelation. Note the use of shiny nickel / white pearl buttons! This idea cribbed from a blazer was best recommended for lightweight resort/cruise suiting. The green oxford shirt has a widespread attached collar, worn with an India madras tie in bar shape (recently introduced then). Horizontal striped wool hose, brown and white crepe-soled shoes and reddish foulard motif handkerchief complete the accessories. Shoes can be of red leather soles, which are more formal than rubber soles, which in turn are a notch dressier than crepe soled ones. Coconut straw hat is native inspired with wide “puggree” band.

Note the single button on the sleeves and the fact that this is a true 3 button suit with flap pockets. This combination of medium grey and light green creates a very soothing color combination. The jacket of course can be used perfectly as a separate to be worn with white flannel trousers.

Finally few side notes…

All of this is presented as a guide-line for you. Kindly keep in mind that it would be rather silly to expect anyone to copy the styles of 30s as they were for resort wear of today. That was then. However, what this guide should do is provide you with a base line or a median to start with. No matter how much you deviate from it, you will have something to go back to as to how these articles of clothing were worn back in the days. You can use these & modify them to your own personal liking and that is where your personal style is most needed.

There is a lot more to it (summer / cruise / resort wear) than what can probably be covered here but alas I am tired typing! I think this should be sufficient for the time being.

Sincerely
e-tutee

Edit

A new Illustration (the last one) has been added making it all 10.

If you look at the Bermuda (red blazer) picture you will see that the gent with the db suit is wearing a panama hat…referred to as the “plantation” or “planter’s style hat by AA/Esky. Now in reality a “planter’s” hat is usually with a much wider and not to mention slightly different brim style. The hat in the picture appears to be the regular 2.5” wide brim, maybe 2 5/8” at most…where as you can expect the planter’s style panama hat to be at least 2 7/8” or 3” wide at the brim in order to properly avoid the sun rays. Nevertheless, my job (if it is as such) to present these with most accuracy….and hence the discrepancy.

It was brought to my attention by our lounge member Dopey. Many thanks for that.

[RWS]

Thanks, e-tutee, for interesting commentary and marvelous pictures. I'm both enlightened and nostalgic after reading your fine postings.

[Guest]

Excellent and astonishing work!

[countdemoney]

Thank you for putting this together, Etutee . As someone still learning, I can't tell you how much of a help (and joy!) your posts like this are to read.

That robe - wonderful!

Thank you again.

[dopey]

This post is really helpful and I appreciate the hard work that went into it e-tutee. It has given me several ideas and help refine others that have been percolating in my head for a while.

In particular, I am thinking of some nice sport shirts in a lightweight wool or wool/cotton houndstooth or herringbone. I had some long-sleeved ones made in the past, but I might try some short-sleeved polo or pajama collar versions.

A wool/cotton teal and camel houndstooth on off-white ground was one of my favorites. The collar has worn through and replacement cloth was not available when last I checked. Perhaps something similar will be now.

[Concordia]

Beautifully prepared post, and thanks!

One thing intrigues me about that red blazer-- are those slits for ticket pockets above each of the patch pockets?

[dopey]

Beautifully prepared post, and thanks!

One thing intrigues me about that red blazer-- are those slits for ticket pockets above each of the patch pockets?

I think they are the shadows of the pocket openings. Note that they line up with the lower button.

[RWS]

Beautifully prepared post, and thanks!

One thing intrigues me about that red blazer-- are those slits for ticket pockets above each of the patch pockets?

I think they are the shadows of the pocket openings. Note that they line up with the lower button.

Also, the horizontal lines appear too wide to mark ticket pockets.

[dopey]

. . .
In particular, I am thinking of some nice sport shirts in a lightweight wool or wool/cotton houndstooth or herringbone. I had some long-sleeved ones made in the past, but I might try some short-sleeved polo or pajama collar versions.

A wool/cotton teal and camel houndstooth on off-white ground was one of my favorites. The collar has worn through and replacement cloth was not available when last I checked. Perhaps something similar will be now.

I have just fortified my brain with some calories and realize this is not a priority, although it is something about which I will definitely inquire when I next see my shirtmaker.

[RWS]

Could you simply have the worn collar turned, D.?

[dopey]

Could you simply have the worn collar turned, D.?

I still wear that shirt at home because I love the feel — it has only gotten better with age. I have also selected the shirt for service in the pocket square temple. It has already been consecrated and will be sacrificed in another year or two.

In any event, can a collar with stay pockets be turned to get another life? I am not sure how that would work.

[RWS]

Could you simply have the worn collar turned, D.?

. . . . [C]an a collar with stay pockets be turned to get another life?

No, probably not; yet another reason to dislike collar bones! I now see why the sacrifice couldn't be a wave offering.

The feel of wool-and-cotton shirts, as that of linen ones, only gets better and better. I wish I had more of them (note to myself when next I visit Budd).

[Etutee]

One thing intrigues me about that red blazer-- are those slits for ticket pockets above each of the patch pockets?

Dear Concordia,
Those are openings of the patch pockets...most likely. As someone mentioned above...note the horizontal vicinity of the lower button.

sincerely
etutee

[Concordia]

But I see the corners of the patch pockets somwhat below the plane of the horizontal shadow. Maybe just a bit of poetic license with the edge of the patch pockets. Does your original copy have better detail than what's on my laptop?

[risto]

Amazing, Etutee. Truly amazing. No idea what you do for living, but please keep spending time on these postings. I'll promise in turn to read every single one of them in detail. Again, and again, and again ...

Cheers,

Risto