Chesterfield

[Costi]

Gentlemen,

Here are a few pictures of a Chesterfield I have recently comissioned to Mr. Negrila, a Bucharest tailor.
The cloth is a Romanian made 300 gms fine grey herringbone. It is a topcoat, meant for Spring/Autmn wear.





Note the particular way the fly is done. The fly is handpicked instead of the more usual (and much more visible) machine stitch. The front edges and lapels are almost invisibly handpicked, too, in order to keep the canvasses in place.

[EHR]

That is a beautiful coat to begin with, very nicely done. I had previously thought that a chesterfield coat had a velvet top collar though?

[Cantabrigian]

Looks very nice.

I may have opted for a higher vent but the overall silhouette is great.

[RWS]

Very, very nice, Costi.

Perhaps I should start learning Roumanian.

[couch]

Beautiful coat, sir. On my wardrobe "to do" list is a covert coat, and I wonder what members think about the idea of having the fly outlined in a handpicked stitch as Costi's coat does (rather than machined), given that the rest of the coat would presumably have the traditional machined quarter-inch edge stitching and possibly the traditional tracked stitching at cuffs and hem. I'm thinking the more subtle fly outline would comport well, but perhaps it would seem oxymoronic. Thoughts?

[tteplitzmd]

Note the "steep hook vent" ...very nice.

[HappyStroller]

What's a steep hook vent?

[tteplitzmd]

Note how the vent is off set by an inch or so from the vertical seem above it, forming a hook, or upper case L I have two covert cloth coats, both with conventional center vents, but I used to have a lot of jackets made with the "steep hook vent" still used by RTW J Press in their jackets.

[Mark Seitelman]

Excellent!

[the tailor]

The "hook vent", actually looks like a 'brick' bartack to me!

A very nice coat.

www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com

[Costi]

Many thanks to you all for the appreciation - I am glad you agree with me that the tailor has earned it.
As far as I know, a Chestferfield may or may not have a velvet collar; I liked the self-cloth collar better as being more discrete and let the silhouette of the coat play the main part. I asked that the vent start below the seat because I thought it ballanced the length of the skirt better. The vent is offset from the backseam and is horizontal (not with a diagonal seam) and indeed "L"-shaped - I am not sure what it is correctly called in English; it is similar to the way a tailcoat's vent is done. I'll post a detailed picture.
I have added a picture taken from the side to cover all angles (excuse the yellowish light)



Here is the outside of the fly in more detail in case it is of interest:


My next project is a Guard's coat from the same tailor. I hope for an equally pleasing result and I look forward to reading your valued ideas on how it should / could be made in the thread I started in the Dressing Room.