How much leather is needed for a pair of shoes?

[rjman]

Hello everyone, I was curious if someone could answer me this. I know that some shoemakers don't mind if a customer provides his own leather, particularly in the case of a harder-to-find leather. Does anyone know how much would be needed? I thought a hide about 40 inches by 40 inches might do it, but would more be needed?

Thanks!

[masterfred]

RJMan, I don't have a specific answer, but isn't it a matter of the hide piece being, across, the board, of equal thickness, quality, etc.? It's my understanding that many leather shoes, even fine quality ones, are pieced together because of the difficulty in obtaining hides that are of a uniform nature.

[RWS]

Perhaps we should ask the question in terms of extent: how many square inches or centimeters are needed for a pair of, say, American 9Cs?

This interests me, too, as I would like to commission a pair of cordovan oxfords from a foreign bootmaker for whom the getting of cordovan is difficult and unduly expensive.

[Costi]

About a quarter of a square meter should do for a pair of shoes, rjman.

[Cantabrigian]

Perhaps we should ask the question in terms of extent: how many square inches or centimeters are needed for a pair of, say, American 9Cs?

This interests me, too, as I would like to commission a pair of cordovan oxfords from a foreign bootmaker for whom the getting of cordovan is difficult and unduly expensive.

That's odd.

I could have sworn I read an article indicating that Fagliano was able to order from Horween - assuming that's who you're talking about.

[RWS]

Because of internal regulations, there'd be a distinct advantage to my supplying the leather.

[luk-cha]

i would try this;

get some newspaper and the use it to cover a shoe tree and then also depending on a style you want too measure the results

i was gonna say a sq2 foot but it might be a bit corny as per this topic goes

[lancepryor]

I would suggest you inquire of your shoemaker how much he would like.

The answer to this question is not so straightforward, aside from a literal answer determined by the style of the shoe and your shoe size -- the latter you could answer taping over a shoe tree, cutting the resulting 'shell' into the pieces reflecting your desired style, flattening same, and trying to lay them out on a flat sheet of paper, with a bit of room between each for seam and lasting allowances. Don't forget to add a tongue and four 3" x 5" strips for inside side stiffeners.

The reasons the foregoing answer is too simplistic are several -- first of all, most bespoke shoemakers are going to want to choose the best pieces of the hide, particularly for the vamp and toe areas; second, the optimal layout for the pieces generally incorporates different orientations for various parts of the shoe to minimize the effects of the leather's inherent elasticity and likelihood to stretch on the long term fit; and finally, most hides have various flaws that a good shoemaker will avoid whilst cutting out the upper.

I believe in his book, Vass states that it take 2 cordovan shells to make one pair of shoes, but perhaps you could get away with one if you are lucky.

Certainly a 40" square hide would have more than ample leather, assuming the condition of the hide is in keeping with the shoemaker's needs. Please note that you should make sure the leather is of the proper 'temper' and thickness. Also, I would suggest you want to get a leather that is 'struck through,' i.e. the dye has penetrated the full thickness of the leather, and calfskin is preferable to cowhide, unless you are going for a more rustic look.

[bengal-stripe]

I believe in his book, Vass states that it take 2 cordovan shells to make one pair of shoes, but perhaps you could get away with one if you are lucky.

In most cases, you’ll get one pair of shoes out of a (single) cordovan shell. Here is a picture from the Vass book, it shows the pieces of a Derby laid out onto a shell. I can count 1 vamp, 1 wing tip, 3 quarters, 2 heel counters. (Out of the photograph) there is space for the other vamp. The pieces are spaced very loosely and I’m sure, with a bit of jiggling, the remaining wing tip can be accommodated as well.



Interesting to see that in Vass’ sample the pieces are cut in a ready-to-wear fashion (to save leather). In a traditional bespoke shoe, the vamp goes all the way down to the toe, the cap is applied on top of it, having a double layer of leather. In all factory-made shoes the leather is always a single thickness. If there is a toe cap or a heel counter the leather of the vamp/quarter is cut away (just leaving a bit of overlap) at the point where the cap takes over.

RWS - one shell should be sufficient, but if you want to be on the safe side, get two. (Has your shoemaker worked with cordovan before? Many shoemakers hate the stuff.)

Rjman - your 1 square metre will be plenty. (Gosh, those sewer alligators grow big in Paris!)

Rolf

[rjman]

Rjman - your 1 square metre will be plenty. (Gosh, those sewer alligators grow big in Paris!)

Eh, just something the cat dragged in...

[alden]

Depends also on the size of the foot. I have seen the Horween shells. To make my size 11 UK shoes, it would take two shells.

Michael

[Janne Melkersson]

I guess the reason why Vass suggest two pairs of shells for a pair of cordovan shoes is because of the difference in thickness which normally the shells have. The ones I have been using differ probably close to half the thickness from one long side to the other.

The wing-tip and heel counter can be taken out of the thinner area if the vamp and the quarter are cut full as in the example bengal-stripe describes, if so two shells will definitely be needed.