Rubinacci

[wasser]

I posed the following a whole ago now and thought I'd post an update -

Well no responce to y question so I walked into the London shop and ordered a shirt to try.

A lovly Italian lady from Capri helped me and I expect my first fittisn to be in 2 weeks, which is very fast in comparison to my experience with Dege.

The shirt is £300 and all hand stiched where the Dege shirts are machined but cheaper at about £150-175 each.

Will let you know the result after the first fittisng.

Since this post in May I have had two fittings but sadly the result is not even close yet.

The first fitting was with Mr Rubinacci seniour and he seemed more interested in pushing me to buy a suit, but I'll wait to see the final shirt first.

Will let you know how I get on the the third fitting.

Anyone boought a bespoke suit or shirt from them would be interested in your experience.

[mek]

I have had one jacket made by Rubinacci this year. It went very well and I am happy with the resultrs.

[wasser]

Well the fittings continure with little improvment.

I have had a third fitting for the shirt and it is still not close and my impressions of the firm diminish with every visit.

I asked for no fusing in the coller and cuffs but guess what they are fused.

The fit at the third fitting was a mile away and no real improvment on the second fitting.

ech time I visit they seem keen to sell me a suit but if they can't deliver on a shirt what hope is there with a suit.

Not imprressed !

[kolecho]

The suits I have seen from Rubinacci are uniformly good. Never seen a bespoke shirt from them before. The few times I met Rubinacci senior, he has exhibited keen salesmanship and good business acumen. That aspect sounds familiar.

[tteplitzmd]

I find the sales literature, the uninspiring sales staff, and overall hype (at least in London) to be off putting. I would view this luxe sales machine with circumspection. I suspect you would get a better outcome in Naples. Even there I have heard several reports of bad outcomes. Yes, I am sure the owner would rather sell you a suit or jacket than shirts. But then again, some people just like to talk to salesmen.

[uppercase]

Don't be too quick to give up on Rubinacci.

You cannot reasonably judge based on only one shirt.

I have had shirts made by Rubinacci and they are fine, some of the best I have had made.

A few suggestions:

Work only with Mariano.

If possible, make the short trip to Naples from London, and work with the artisans there. The 'hands' and the art is found in Naples, not London, which is simply a RTW sales outlet, not geared for the man looking for bespoke.

You will obtain much better results if you travel to Rubinacci Naples and are taken care of there; much different to the London experience; indeed, you would be well adivised to visit the shirtmakers Merolla and Matuozzo as well while there.

Be patient: Bespoke is not an issue of instant gratification nor perfect initial results.
It is rather an art, a relationship, slowly evolving.

But stack the odds in your favour and make the trip to Naples.

[iammatt]

I cosign what Uppercase wrote.

Also remember that not every tailor is right for every client. Rubinacci is not for the client wanting to "collaborate". He is for the client who is looking for well fitting clothing, superbly made and influenced by a man of great style. The process at Rubinacci really has room for only one director and Mariano is it. You could do much, much worse than that.

I am a tremendously satisfied Rubinacci client, so take my comments with that in mind. I have no interest in designing my own suit, rather I want an excellent product and that is what I feel that I get. As in all cases, YMMV.

[wasser]

Just to be clear that I have been served by Mr Rubb each time and the first fittisng was May 2007.

I am waiting to see the shirt for the fourth fitting and have not given up yet, but have to say at this stage it is unlikley I'll purchase any furter items from them unless the final product is fantastic.

I purchase about 6 bespoke suits each year and around 10-20 bespoke shirts, so I am no stranger to the subject, but have to say this sis the most disapointing experience I have had with a tailor todate

It is interesting to see a post on their prices in another part of the forum but thought I would comment here. They quoted me £2,800 for a suit and £300 for a shirt, but I have not enquired abot the price in Naples although I am visiting the city next ear so will compaire.

From experience most bespoke tailors seem to price in the local currency so it is generally the same where ever the garment is delivered, except for tax. On the other hand Brioni and Kiton see to be the same number so if it is £2,000 in London then it is E2,000 in Rome and $2,000 in NY. Boy we pay for living in London.

Uppercase - what have you purchased from Rubb ?

As far as the sales patter I would say that the shop in London is a very nice place to visit and the buying exprience is part of the plesure for me as I have the fortunate choice to give, or not as the case may be, my money to people I like. For an example Robert at Dege is a pleasure to work with and I'll always buy from him (yes starting to wish I had not bothered experiementing but was sucked in by the presentation of the Rubb shop).

I guess it s also fair to say that bespoke is different to each of us in the product and the experience, so others may have a completly differnt view of Rubb.

[kronik]

From experience most bespoke tailors seem to price in the local currency so it is generally the same where ever the garment is delivered, except for tax. On the other hand Brioni and Kiton see to be the same number so if it is £2,000 in London then it is E2,000 in Rome and $2,000 in NY. Boy we pay for living in London.

Kiton / Brioni are nowhere near $2,000 in the US - not at retail at least. Given the weak dollar / strong pound, I think you're doing a lot better than we are.

[mek]

I think Kiton is closer to 3000 pounds in London and their MTM service in NY starts about $ 6500. For $ 2000 I might try them.

MEK

[wasser]

Firstly with regard to the Kiton cost the reference was as a comparison of cost between, london and other cities not an actual cost of the suits.

With regard to my experience with Rubinacci I have to say after a further two fiting I have given up and had my money back. The fit never got there and to cap it off their sales pitch of a hand stiched shirt turned out to be well lets just say £300 for a machined shirt that did not fit was taking the ...................

That will teach me for straying from Dege.

[tteplitzmd]

Well done! Any merchant who refunds money in the sartorial arts deserves an honorable mention. This may actually be a recommendation then, and a sign of the merchant's integrity.

Terry Teplitz