Here is the comprehensive summer AA guide with numerous articles and illustrations. It has been four months since the last installment of this series and as such the way it seems there will probably be one more before the year is over. However, to make up for this decrease in number of articles, I have included many more illustrations in the last post and this one too… 22 to be specific. Keep in mind that more than 3 years ago when we started on these articles there were only 3-4 illustrations per post… so all in all it is a considerable jump in time and effort by any standards. Heck, if you were to pick an issue of fabric & fashions (the most valuable version of AA) there will be no more than 10-12 illustrations with discussions.
It takes considerable amount of effort to produce one of these & often due to my circumstances it is hard for me to have one ready every 2-3 months. Anyways, as I said above with this one I have more than made up for fewer posts. It is quite detailed and certainly the most comprehensive (at least in terms of illustrations) that I have written so far.
As with the last post… from now onwards there will be less focus on the “obvious” & more on matters that haven’t been discussed in the past. By now, if you have read all the previous posts… you will be able to scan these for details yourself. If you are reading this… it is already assumed that you know the “rules” and other such details. If not, then make sure you have read the previous summer related posts… if not all.
Here are some links to the past summer posts where concepts have been explained in extensive details.
Vol. I No. IV (July 05') Summer / Resort AA / Esky
Vol. I No. V (Sept 05') Summer / Resort Part II AA / Esky
VOL. II NO. V (June 06') Drape / Summer Suit Styles AA
Before I start I would like to thank our member "Dopey" whose help made it possible for me to finalize this post in early August. Without his help this post would have not seen the pages of london lounge for at least another month or two.
now let us start with the first article. This is from Summer 35' Vol V No IV of AA
THE SOURCES OF SUMMER FASHION,
An anthology of the leading fashion centers of the world each of which provides a valuable promotional background for the major summer fashions with which it is identified
THE point is not that you can't successfully merchandise a new fashion that originated at Juan-les-Pins without knowing whether Juan-les-Pins is the name of a Spanish bullfighter or the latest version of the tango. The point is rather that if you know where Juan-les-Pins is and know a little about it, you can endow your promotion of the new fashion with a background that will better its chances for success.
Juan-les-Pins, Biarritz, Cannes, Aintree, Southampton—these places are all very real and very much a part of the fashion picture. Their association with men's fashions, properly utilized, can constitute an invaluable element in your fund of promotional ammunition. To be sure, the names sound a bit "ritzy"—and they are. But what do you care if you have to traffic in the resorts of princes and international society leaders, as long as it helps you sell more apparel? You can say, along with Arnold Bennett, that "the best is good enough for me."
Fashions emanate from definite localities frequented by people of wealth and distinction. These leaders wear this year what will next year be in widespread demand. It is through the prestige and sanction of authenticity that attaches itself to anything worn at the important fashion centers that the new styles get their start. Therefore, it is only the better part of logic to capitalize on that same prestige and sanction of authenticity in speeding the new fashions on their career of dissemination so far as your store is concerned. You don't find Cornelius Vanderbilt, Jr., the writer, forgetting all about the prestige value of his name and attempting to crash the slick paper magazines under the pseudonym of Jack Jones. And there is just as little showmanship in taking a fashion item that is rich in the prestige of Biarritz or Cannes and presenting it to your customers as your own idea or something that your brother-in-law thought up.
There are even fashions in fashion centers, one resort sometimes increasing in popularity at the expense of another. But compared to the inconstancy of the styles which emanate from them, at least, the important fashion centers are as fixed and changeless as the smile on the face of the Mona Lisa. Fortunately, therefore, it is possible to list and identify these centers in such a manner as to provide an authoritative anthology for some time to come. Keep this issue handy and dip into the anthology—compiled here with specific reference to summer fashions— for inspiration both as to copy and illustration in your effective sponsorship of the new fashions associated with these centers.
Treated first are the main fashion centers in the United States. The places listed in the following paragraphs set the pace for smart fashions in keeping with the social and amusement programs of those who dodge the cold in winter and the heat in summer.
AIKEN, SOUTH CAROLINA
Riding Fashions
THE clans begin to gather at this boot and saddle resort in February, but for the commoner the social steeplechase is as full of hazards and pitfalls as the famous Aiken Drag itself. The resort, situated on a sand ridge surrounded by yellow pine forests, is seventeen miles northeast of Augusta, Georgia. The i ness and dryness of the climate make it., noted health center in winter, spring and autumn. The luxurious private estates, hotels- and country clubs attract, in j son, the outstanding members of the riding, hunting and polo playing set.
Mr.Thomas Hitchcock, Sr., founded the Aiken colony in 1898 as a means of indulging a love for hunting cultivate -his younger days while at Oxford. So other friends of similar taste, such Ambrose Clark, joined the colony and' the resort has since become a traditional place of annual pilgrimage for the riding set who continue the equestrian activities which they pursue at Long Island.
The Aiken Drag (colors: green uniform with chamois collar and white breeches has become one of America's best known steeplechases. Under the influence Tommy Hitchcock, Jr., the polo star Aiken has become a winter training ground, for most of the famous polo players.
The chief pastimes are fox hunting polo, tennis and golf, with emphasis on horses and equestrianism. Nig life is negligible, including mostly private dinner parties with simple gatherings," ten or twelve guests. Most people retire early, since nearly everyone pops out of bed at the crack of dawn and dashes-J his favorite mount and the yelping pack.
BALTIMORE, MARYLAND
Spectator Country Clothes—Horsey
THE Maryland Hunt Cup is on the most sporting "blue blood, steeplechases in America. Sportsmen come from all over the country to : the race and there is always a gallery of several thousand socially prominent, smartly attired people in attendance. Maryland, settled by English gentry, the Cavaliers, has always loved fox hunting and other sports associated with it. m keen rivalry has long existed between |he Elkridge Fox Hunting Club, organized in 1872, and the Green Spring Valley Club, founded in 1892. In the spring of 1894, the Elkridge members challenged their rivals to a cross country run which would test the speed, endurance and jumping ability of their horses. The event has been perpetuated ever since, last year's race having been held in April. The Valley Club wears a field uniform of scarlet coats with green collars, while the Elkridge members wear scarlet with old gold.
BELMONT PARK, LONG ISLAND
Spectator Race Clothes, Town Clothes
THIS premier United States track was founded in 1905 with August Belmont as first president. The races are held in June and September for a period of two or three weeks duration. The spring season features the Belmont Stakes and the fall season the Belmont Futurity, the later being the most important two-year gold race in the country.
Turf and Field, the smart horsey club, has a special enclosure which is reserved exclusively for members. The elite turf |set are always at Belmont—William Woodward, the Whitney, Robert Gerry, Marshall Field and many others. Joseph Widener is a guiding spirit both here and fat Hialeah.
In addition to Belmont, there are of ^course many other important tracks throughout the country. None approach I Belmont in smartness, however, except I perhaps the Downs at Derby time, Hialeah at the height of the Palm Beach season and Saratoga in August.
EAST HAMPTON, LONG ISLAND
Resort, Beach and Tennis Fashions
WITH the development of suburban estates within easy commuting distance of New York, East Hampton and Southampton have become second New-ports for wealthy New Yorkers who wish to secure the advantages of residential and resort life without sacrificing their business interests. The Maidstone Club is a center of social activities and is particularly popular for its golf and tennis. Although originally regarded as a nouveau riche upstart by its more pompous rival, Southampton, East Hampton now considers itself more exclusive. At any rate it is gayer, for the older colony suffers from a touch of registerite heaviness somewhat comparable to the Grande Dame-Union League atmosphere of Newport.
NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT
University Fashions
IN 1700, ten ministers formally founded the school now known as Yale. Today this university, with its large national student body drawn from many well known and wealthy families, is considered one of the foremost fashion centers in the country. The close proximity of both Yale and Princeton to New York has been responsible for numerous important fashion trends.
The Harvard-Yale Regatta, held annually in June at New London, Connecticut, has been a significant sporting event since 1898. The bitterly contested crew race over a four mile course gathers a gallery of all the famous yachts and pleasure craft of Eastern society. The clothes worn on this occasion are very significant from a fashion standpoint.
NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND
Ultra Smart Resort Wear, Summer Formal Wear
SITUATED sixty-nine miles southwest of Boston on Narragansett Bay is this swankiest of all American resorts. The exclusive clannishness of the town began long ago with the influx of wealthy New Yorkers after the Civil War. Associated with Newport are such names as James B. Dake, Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, W. B. Leeds, Herman Oelrichs, Perry Belmont, Mrs. William Astor, H. O. Havemeyer and dozens of others.
Bailey's Beach is the famous exclusive playground of the social register, while the Newport Country Club is an elite golfing center. A tennis tournament, second only to the National Singles, is held annually at the Casino, a private club. The sailing facilities attract ardent yachtsmen, providing a site both for the annual New York Yacht Club cruise and the International Yacht races in which Sir Thomas Lipton once figured so prominently. Horse shows, aquatic events, polo matches and the best professional summer theatre in America add zest to Newport life.
Social life of the most high hat character, an exclusive privilege of the hand picked residential members of this colony, centers around the Casino and the Sprouting Rock Beach Club at Bailey's. Admission to either one is gained only through the most rigid standards of culture, wealth, breeding and genealogy. They are fortresses never conquered by the social parvenu. Typical of Newport exclusiveness is the high fence at Bailey's Beach which perfectly conceals the seaside life of these socialites from the eavesdropping and sightseeing of the curious.
PALM BEACH, FLORIDA
Semi-Tropical Wear, Summer Formal Wear, Golf, Beach and Swim Apparel
THIS "City of the Sun on the Isle of Beauty" is perhaps the best known millionaire's paradise in the world. It is located on a long narrow island, sixty miles north of Miami off the eastern coast of Florida. The present charm and beauty of Palm Beach are synthetic, for this tropical Utopia was created from a miasmic region of swamps, tangled underbrush and barren sand dunes once inhabited by the Seminole Indians.
In 1886, Henry M. Flagler, regarded at the time as a well-intentioned visionary, began his Jacksonville development which started the first of the great Florida booms on the East Coast. In 1894, Flagler broke ground for the Royal Poinciana in Palm Beach, then the world's largest tourist hotel, and in 1895 he ran his East Coast railroad to West Palm Beach.
In 1913, Colonel Edward Bradley further accelerated the development of the colony by selling lots on a filled-in swamp called Camp Styx, and later Paris Singer and Addison Mizner, visualizing the future beauty of the place, were the progenitors as architects of the currently typical Hispanic style. Soon many socialites settled here in patioed estates—Anthony Drexel Biddle, Jr., Mrs. E. F. Hutton, Harold Vanderbilt, R. R. McCormick and others.
Up to 1926 the resort was a tourist center without any sharp social distinctions, everyone bathing at Breakers Beach and golfing on the old or new course north of the hotel. With the erection of the new Bath and Tennis Club in 1926, however, a definite cleavage was made between the socialites of the magnificent estates and the tourists of the hotels. Just before the crash during the twenties, more villas blossomed out and the three important clubs—Bath and Tennis, Gulf Stream and Everglades—were crowded with the wealthy.
Social life at Palm Beach has two aspects — one centered about the hotels and the other about the private residential colony and the exclusive private clubs. Most of the hotel crowd get to see very little of the elite cottagers, who keep pretty much to themselves. Between 10:30 and 11:30 the male members of the cottage set usually congregate at the brokers' offices, repairing to the Bath and Tennis Club, the Sea Spray Club or to their private pools and plages. Luncheon follows the bathing hour and afternoons are largely devoted to golf or tennis.
The evenings are frequently given over to private parties or balls at the Colony Club which, though smart, is open to the general public. Many attend motion picture theatres, in formal attire, and go dancing afterwards. Still others pay a visit to Bradley's Casino, where the gambling stakes run high. The cottage coterie, however, are seldom seen in Palm Beach proper, most of their dinners and dances being given at home.
PRINCETON, NEW JERSEY
University Fashions
PRINCETON University, a potent influence on young men's clothes, has always been attended by students of wealth and social distinction. The limitation of its enrollment in 1922 to about 2,000 students selected on the basis of scholarship and character has added to its reputation for exclusiveness. Inasmuch as the school is located in a small town, there is considerable interest in outdoor activities, and Princeton is considered an important fashion center for informal and outdoor dress. In spring, the Maytime house parties run the gamut from the smartest of informal attire during the day to the most strictly formal dress for evening.
SARATOGA SPRINGS,-New York
Fashions for the summer resort
THE first hotel was built here in 1774 and throughout the 19th century the resort was one of the most popular in the country. Its prestige faded at the beginning of the 20th century, but in 1929 a committee under Bernard Baruch planned a successful revival of the Springs as a health and resort center. At present, the height of the season is the period of the August races on the Saratoga tracks. This is the scene of the oldest stake in America, the Travers.
SOUTHAMPTON, LONG ISLAND
Resort and Formal Wear — Beach Fashions for Summer
THIS exclusive residential and sporting center, 92 miles by rail east of New York, dates back to 1880 as a watering place. Next to Newport, this town is probably the most deluxe resort, from the social standpoint, in America. It is not quite so regal or impregnable, however, as the Rhode Island resort. Here reside such people as Nicholas Murray Butler, Alonzo Potter, Goodhue Livingston, Charles H. Sabin and Mrs. James P. Donahue.
The Meadow Club is an important private society center, while daytime activities in season focus on the very exclusive Beach Club. The social life reaches its highest pitch during Tennis Week when most of the country's best players participate by invitation.
ROSLYN, LONG ISLAND-THE UNITED HUNTS
Country Spectator Fashions
THIS is the scene of the spring meeting of one of the most important steeplechase events in the country, the fall meeting being held at Belmont Park. The event was inaugurated in the early part of the present century and today it brings out a representative cross-section of the leading sportsmen in the New York sector. Richard Whitney, James W. Girard, John Hay Whitney and T. W. Durant have been active figures.
WESTBURY, LONG ISLAND
Clothes for Post and Paddock and the Hunt— Spectator Sportswear
THE exclusive Meadowbrook Club has for twenty years been the national polo center. More polo is played here, within a small radius of the club, than anywhere else in the country, and the club is the focal point for all international polo activities in the United States. The history of the Meadowbrook Club goes back to an early interest in fox hunting, but the club was not incorporated until 1881. A steeplechase was first run in 1883 and the Meadowbrook Cup event, held annually on the estate of F. Ambrose Clark in September, is one of the most smartly turned out in America. The field costume consists of scarlet coats, white waistcoats and robin's egg blue collars.
Vastly important in their influence on men's fashions are the fashion centers of England and the Continent. The cult of the warm weather enthusiasts of Europe, during both winter and summer, revolves around the places described in the following paragraphs.
AINTREE, ENGLAND
Country Spectator Fashions
THIS is the scene of the famous Grand National Steeplechase. The first Liverpool Grand National was run at Aintree in 1839, but steeple chasing as it is known today, with trained horses and jockeys to negotiate them over a series of artificial jumps, is a comparatively modern sport. The Grand National is now a March . event of considerable fashionable importance.
ASCOT, ENGLAND
Formal Day Dress
THE racing seasons of this celebrated course have always been exceptionally smart. The annual meeting, which is held during the second or third week in June, is notable for the Royal Procession and is attended by all the important members of the fashionable sporting world. Usually, the men in America who disseminate fashions are in England at the time of the Ascot and the Derby, frequently returning home later by way of the French Riviera and thus bringing with them the latest fashions both of England and the Continent. Morning coats and grey toppers are worn by every man at the Ascot from the royal family down to the bookmakers, and the derivation of the name for the Ascot tie is obviously associated with this important center.
BIARRITZ, FRANCE
Ultra Smart Sea side Fashions
THIS significant fashion center, the most frequented resort in France, is located on the Bay of Biscay. The climate and scenery are equal sources of attraction, with the Pyrenees on one side and the Basque coast on the other. The beaches, Grande Plage and Cote des Basques, are connected by a magnificent promenade. Beautiful villas and hotels make Biarritz a brightly flourishing society center.
Most of the prominent men English and Spanish aristocrats here in season, where they may invariably be observed garbed in the latest f in beach wear, swim attire and informal dress. Elite society pays frequent visits to the Hotel Miramar where may see and be seen, paying particularly critical attention to the matter in clothes. Other galas, equally are held at the Ambassadeurs Casino and at the Hotel Palais.
There is much fashionable dancing gambling at the Casino, while the Socoa Yacht Club attracts a smart coterie includes many prominent Americans. The Chiberta Golf Club is a favorite ' the Prince of Wales, and the d'Amour and the Bar Basque patronized by the cosmopolitan e the least part of the charm of t is found by many in the fact the lies in the heart of the Basque with its quaint natives unrelated language or origin to any other race existent.
CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY ENGLAND
University Fashions— Spectator Country Wear
CAMBRIDGE, one of the universities of Great Britain from the 12th century. Young men of the best families, after an earlier such schools as the fashionable Chester, Eton or Harrow, conclude education here or at Oxford, universities set standards of dress which influence the whole world of fashion. The rowing races, called the May Bumps, bring out the latest vogue in informal attire—slacks with odd jackets in all types plaids, checks and tweeds.
DEAUVILLE, FRANCE
Beach Fashions
This fashion center on the northwest coast was launched in 1860 by the Duc de Morny who created a charming fort from sandy wastelands in much the same manner that Palm Beach was converted into a tropical paradise from literally nothing. Deauville has been appreciably described as "la plage fleurie" 'The beach of Mowers. Le Petit Trianon gambling casino, swimming baths modeled along Pompeian prototypes, two golf links, two racing courses, two polo grounds, twenty-two tennis courts and yacht Club are its major attractions, because of its proximity to England, Deauville has been an important fashion center. Such articles of beach wear as the Deauville sandals and beach robes first gained popularity here.
EPSOM DOWNS, ENGLAND
Formal Day Wear— Spectator Sportswear
LOCATED in Epsom, fourteen miles southwest of London, this place was originally a health resort but is now famed its fashionable races where the sports of kings reaches perhaps its highest peak. Epsom Downs has been the scene of racing long before Edward, the 12th Earl of Derby, founded the Derby in 1780. Derby is now the "world's biggest " being, attended by over a million people. This important event usually occurs during the first week in June.
ETON, ENGLAND
Fashions in Sportswear
THIS most famous of English public schools, drawing its student body from the oldest families, whose children are usually registered for entrance at birth, is an important fashion center for young men. At the June fourth celebrations in honor of King George III, the "old boys," parents and friends appear in the smartest attire. The occasion is the famous boat parade, an annual river pageant celebrated since the early part of the 19th century and described in an earlier issue of APPAREL ARTS.
LE TOUQUET, FRANCE
Golf Clothes, Beach Fashions
THE stimulating atmosphere of this resort provides a tonic for the fatigued, and the Pine Forest of 2,000 acres, less than half a mile from the sea, is a source of recuperation. A full program of sports attracts many visitors, with racing, horse shows, polo, golf and tennis. The Casino de la Foret and the Casino de la Plage offer diversion in many forms of gambling. The season, from Easter to October, is a gay one.
LONDON, ENGLAND
Town Fashions
THE Earl of Devonshire, in the 18th century, remarked, "When London takes snuff the rest of the world sneezes." That boastful generalization still applies, as far as men's fashions are concerned in summer, the city is perhaps the world's brightest capital. With the lifting of the winter fogs, life for a few short months becomes one of hectic gayety. The "season" reaches its peak in June, with a calendar filled with daily events of importance: the International Horse Show, the Richmond Royal Horse Show, the trooping of the color on the king's birthday, the Derby at Epsom, Ascot week, the tennis matches at Wimbledon and the presentations at court.
The peak of the season, with reference to men's fashions, is reached at the Eton-Harrow game in mid July, the most important cricket match of the year. The Henley Regatta, July 4-7, is also important, as is the yachting at Cowes in August. As a result of all these multifarious attractions, the city is packed with visitors who later disseminate all over the world the current fashions which they pick up in London.
Since London not only possesses a large leisured class among the nobility but also among the untitled, the social set has a dozen different types of dress suited to their hours of diversified amusement. In the West End, the shops of fine tailors, shirt makers, hatters and boot makers are crowded side by side. Apparel familiar to such streets as Old and New Bond, Conduit, Dover, Grafton, Albemarle, Duke, Jermyn, St. James and far-famed Saville Row sets the pace in current fashion trends.
On week nights, one may see ultra formal dress at the Savoy or the Berkeley, and the smartest informal attire may be observed on Sunday nights at Quaglino's. Luncheon at the Monseigneur or the Ritz brings out the smart town clothes. Other places frequented by well dressed men are the Ivy, Claridge's, Punch's Club, the Blue Train, Ciro's, Cafe Royale, Cafe de Paris, Grosvenor-House Restaurant and the Florida.
THE LIDO, VENICE, ITALY
Beach Fashions
THE Lido has been popular with Venetians since 1872, located as it is on the chief island separating the lagoon from the Adriatic. In recent years, deluxe hotels have made this spot of amethyst lagoons, lazy gondolas and golden sands an international fashion center from May to October. Regattas on the Grand Canal, international motor boat races, biennial art exhibitions, international motion picture previews, as well as the usual gamut of pastimes for dispelling care, attract the socialite world.
OLYMPIA, LONDON
Riding Clothes— Horsey Spectator Styles
THE International Horse Show, held here for twenty-two years, is one of the most fashionable of June events in London, as well as being the chief event of equestrian interest in the metropolis. It is indeed international in all respects and, as a result, constitutes an important source for current fashions in riding attire and horsey spectator wear.
OXFORD, ENGLAND
University Fashions
OXFORD, the oldest university in England, dates back to 1163 and has long been one of the most famous seats of learning in the world. Such fashions as the Oxford bags have originated here and, at the time of the boat races in the spring, the newest ideas in sportswear make their appearance.
THE RIVIERA,
FRANCE AND ITALY
Beach and Summer Formal Fashions
UNDER this classification is given a general description of the entire Riviera district. Immediately following will be found the specific descriptions of individual spots on the Riviera, namely, Antibes, Cannes, Menton, Monte Carlo, Nice, St. Raphael and San Remo.
The Cote d'Azur region of Mediterranean resorts extends along the southern coast of France, east of Marseilles, and includes a small section of Italy northwest of Genoa. This littoral, famous for fashion, is an almost continuous series of major and minor towns and villas, extending from St. Raphael on the west ; through Cannes, Juan-les-Pins, Antibes, | Nice and Monte Carlo to Menton on the east. The Italian Riviera, of which San Remo is the most important resort, continues from Menton for a short distance ; along the northeast Ligurian shore. The beaches of these resorts are the ground of celebrities from the four corers of the world. Originally the region was a winter resort, but following the world war it was discovered that May
June were the best months, with the of summer being almost equally active. Thus the vogue of the summer season from June to August is of comparatively recent origin.
ANTIBES, FRANCE
(JUAN-LES-PINS)
Beach Fashions
ANTIBES and the fashionable surroundings of Juan-les-Pins and Cap d’Antibes between Cannes and Nice, is I a summer and winter resort. Rocky creeks, a beach of silver sand, pine woods, flowers and panoramic views, as well as the famed climate of the Mediterranean coast of France, are all part of the attractions of this resort. The town has grown in popularity in recent years, especially among the international set who annually visit the Cote d'Azur.
With the development of a summer season, the English began to visit Antibes and Juan-les-Pins at the expense of Cannes. Recently, Juan has been supplanting Antibes in interest. The life is very indolent with everyone rising late, but by 11:00 most people are out on the beaches sunning themselves. From 1:30 to 2:30, some go to the hotels for luncheon and others remain at restaurants along the plage, one of the most popular of these being a place called La Provencal, erected by the American millionaire, Frank Gould.
Afternoons are spent at tennis or on the sands, with aquaplaning and riding on catamarans a favorite diversion. Aquatic activity ends around 5:00 when everyone drops in some place for tea or cocktails. Cafes, such as the Hollywood (a name inspired by visiting cinema stars) and Maxim's, open for tea dances at which most men continue to wear beach clothes consisting of slacks, polo shirts and espadrilles, the women also dressing informally. In the evening, everyone dresses for dinner, after which they go to night clubs or the casino for gambling, where dress is optional.
CANNES, FRANCE
Beach Fashions
THE fashionable popularity of Cannes, situated nineteen miles southwest of Nice, dates from 1834 when Lord Brougham settled there after being attracted by the beauty of the ancient little hill town. The hills cut off the chill northern winds, rendering the climate one of the most equable m Europe. The beautiful environs, exceptional beach and modern hotels, in addition to the famous yacht anchorage, have made this one of the most popular Mediterranean resorts. It is also famous for the charming Promenade de la Croisette and Casino Municipale.
The chief sport is tennis and it is here that the players practice for the Davis Cup Matches. The newest additions to the facilities of Cannes are the smart Palm Beach Casino and Plage. The Circle Nautique is a very old club, membership to which constitutes a passport to the most exclusive English and American society. The winter season, starting in December and ending in April, is filled with galas, winter sports at Allos, royal regattas, dress balls, fencing tournaments and motor boat and yachting competitions, as well as fashionable diversions.
Cannes has a social atmosphere reminiscent of Palm Beach and maintained by the older group of socialites. Life at the huge hotels, which are the most elaborate of any of the Riviera towns, is the focal point of this paradise among resorts. The habitués of the resort loll through a most restful life, suited to the calm character of the semi-tropical climate.
MENTON, FRANCE
Beach Fashions
THIRTEEN miles northeast of Nice, and almost as celebrated, is this charming village of the Cote d'Azur. The surrounding hills dotted with lemon and orange groves are famed for their natural beauty. The social activities are the usual ones of the smart resorts of the French and Italian Riviera.
The vogue of Menton began with its popularity as a health resort, but present day health treatments are restricted to a large sanatorium and most of the interest now lies in the fashionable activities typical of the Riviera. The amusing epigram, attributed to an Irish writer, that "but for an occasional funeral there would be no life in Menton" no longer has any point.
MONTE CARLO, MONACO
Beach Fashions— Summer Formal Wear
INTERNATIONAL playground of the J- Riviera is the independent principality of Monaco. Its picturesque scenery, mild climate and especially its world famed gambling casino annually attract many fashionable cosmopolites. Its attractive villas provide residences for authors, actors, artists and the socially prominent of all countries, and it is one of the spots favored by the followers of the sun cult.
Gambling has been famous here since the middle of the 19th century, the erection of the world's best known casino in 1878 definitely, establishing the prestige of Monte Carlo as a resort for people of means.
Since that time an additional feature has been made of music. Illuminated gardens of exotic flowers, band concerts, dramas and operettas and international regattas also attract many members of the world of sport, art and fashion.
Life is simple and centers around the Hotel de Paris, and gambling is the chief interest day and night. There is also the Monte Carlo Beach Club, while the Sporting Casino with its pool is likewise popular. Excellent shops draw smart trade.
NICE, FRANCE
Summer Clothes—Beach Fashions
THE climate of Nice has been celebrated for years, and it is a favorite winter resort both for invalids and pleasure-seekers. Nice is especially famous for its carnival season during the last days of February, while fancy dress balls and floral parades are important features in March. Numerous golf championships attract large audiences, and international regattas and various race meetings provide additional diversions.
ST. RAPHAEL, FRANCE
Beach Fashions
"LE soliel toute l'anne"—sunshine all the year—is the slogan of this resort. This spot is famed for the same virtues of climate and scenic beauty as the rest of the Riviera, combining as it does the opportunities for sophisticated social life with village simplicity. It is also a place where people may own private villas removed from the bustle of the older and better known tourist centers. French families in particular find St. Raphael very inviting.
SAN REMO, ITALY
Beach Fashions
THIS important city of the Italian Riviera has become the major center of the Ligurian district. It is frequented by the more exclusive members of the English and foreign "beau monde." The season is extremely gay between Christmas and Lent, while the International Horse Show, under the patronage of the Crown Prince of Italy, is a magnet for smart socialites. Festivals, cabarets, theatres and an extensive season of opera, as well as a casino permitting the highest maxi-mums in the world, entertain those who can afford the pace.
ST. ANDREWS, SCOTLAND
Golf Fashions
ST. ANDREWS, a seaport three miles southeast of Dundee, has long been noted as the "Mecca of golf." As far back as 1457, the game of golf in Scotland had made inroads on the popularity of the chief sport of the time, archery, and since then it has been known as "the royal and ancient game of golf." In 1834, King William IV became the patron of the golf club here, then as now the most famous seat of the game. St. Andrews, with its exceptional links, has always been a source of great interest to golfers, especially at the times when it has staged the English Open Tournament. The course is, at one time or another, visited by all golf specialists, both professional and amateur, who get the opportunity.
WIMBLEDON, ENGLAND
Tennis Fashions
THIS English town, eight miles southwest of St. Paul's, London, and a famous suburban residence, is the headquarters for the All England Lawn Tennis Association. The stadium, with its Davis Cup Matches in the summer, is a fashionable gathering place for all lovers of the game. This prestige has been unbroken since the first English championship was held here in 1877, when the game as played today was first inaugurated.
Before we move onto the next section there is something I want you to observe. This is a rare illustration from summer of 35’ & painted at the Newport casino, one of the locations that is mentioned above.
Newport casino from summer 35’
Here I want you to take note of the gent on the right side of the illustration wearing a blue jacket, white trousers and black shoes. Naturally, if we are to follow the usual tradition of sporty / casual clothes, we will ask as to why black shoes are here? The answer is that in this location it is correct to wear black shoes with the above mentioned combination in so far it is correct to wear a blue odd jacket in the first place. This is one of the typical manner in which men used to dress on summer nights at resort settings where the dress code was lenient but still on the tad formal side.
Here in this scenario it would be unusual for this gent to wear white bucks instead of black shoes. This exact same point is raised in the very last illustration in section III. See that illustration & its discussion for further detail.
That takes care of this section.
END OF SECTION I OF THIS POST
a true inspiration! 
