German sartorial masterpiece from the 60's

[schneidergott]

Hello, gentlemen!
With all this hype about SR and Naples-style I thought I might show a german suit from 1968/69.
The person wearing it is also the "creator". His name is Jakob Kraus from Speyer. Of course, it was probably made by one of his more gifted employees. It is definitely a structured coat, if only for the simple reason that I never came across any german master tailor known for soft tailoring. If anyone on the LL has different information, please let me know.




SG

[dopey]

I like that style very much, though the buttoning stance is unusual these days. The cut is beautiful, though the suit actually looks stiff. I wonder if it feels that way.

[DonB]

Hello all,

I do hope this is not perceived as an attempt to hi-jack the thread. The people depicted are (then) princess Beatrix and the late Prince Claus:



Although I do not have got personal experience with bespoke clothing I do think the suit is quite elegant and I would like to learn more about what 'causes' it to be elegant.

Kind regards,
Don

[schneidergott]

Hello, DonB!

Although it's only black and white I would think it's kind of mohair cloth(or silk) with this shiny appearance. And besides It's the accessoires the prince uses, like cufflinks and the dress handkerchief. And of course the banana helps a lot plus the charming woman beside him.
We would probably consider this less elegant with different people!



SG

[le.gentleman]

Right now, I am very busy but in 2about 3 weeks I can send you some pictures of vintage bespoke suits from Michael Hussmüller and Fries (both from Munich). All I know is, that Michael Hussmüller passed away a while ago.

Schneidergott, do you have any information about them?

[masterfred]

I like the cutaway curve on Herr Kraus's coat very much. An interesting take on the Sixties style. If you have more, I should be very interested in seeing them!

[schneidergott]

Hello!

Here are more images from the sixties.
Sadly, most of those tailors have passed away and/or their tailorshops are closed.
The demand for bespoke tailoring got pretty reduced in the upcoming decades. So only a few are left, mainly in the major cities.
Except for the button-positioning, Mr. Kraus suit was absolutely following the guidelines given by the german "fashioncouncil" every year. So there was little variation, but I'll show some of the more interesting ones, some are from Austria, I would call them a bit more fashionable. If mentioned in the magazine, I added the names of the tailor-companies. All the images are from the 60's except the clubjacket, it's from 1957 and one of my favourite styles, for it is collar- and lapelless. Makes a very nice jacket, even with more than one button. Looks good on tall and slender guys.




This one is from Austrai with special lapels, as they got this shape from pressing:

The following ones are a bit out of the ordinary, but quite nice, I think:


Upcoming is the basic pattern for a party jacket, just like a smoking, SB with 3 buttons:

Here is on for a wedding coat(no pattern for the pants):


This is the clubjacket from 1957:

All the following images are just samples of the classical 60's style:












I hope you'll enjoy this collection.


SG

[smoothjazzone]

Love the two roll 2 configuration of the very first photo -- have something on order thats like that -- will post photos when ready

[luk-cha]

Love the two roll 2 configuration of the very first photo -- have something on order thats like that -- will post photos when ready

ia gree with this too, SJ lookforward to seeing yours once it is completed!

[The Doctor]

Love the two roll 2 configuration of the very first photo -- have something on order thats like that -- will post photos when ready

Have made about four of those over the last 18 months

[alden]

That looks like a three roll to two without the bottom button. I can't say it does much for me.

It is not the two button worn like a three favored by Windsor. That style I very much like.

[alden]

Herr Schneider

The clothes look welded on. That works great for BMWs and Benzs but ...it was sixties styling.

Some of the suits have a bit of Trachten mode about them, are they Bavarian or Austrian?

The guys really need a good lesson in hat selection. Those are some pretty funny looking toppers.

Thanks for the pictures

Michael

[Degendorff]

It seems that in some of the pictures the outfits are traced with dark lines to make the cut more obvious.
The use of shawl collars on coats and overcoats attracted my attention, but there is a reason why we do not find it ever since, I think.

@ alden

The hats seem to be just "a little bit" too small, about 2-4 sizes...

BTW. Which outfit has reminiscenses of a Tracht in your opinion? The really traditional thing of a Tracht is the banded collar (with or without lapels) and the piping.

yours sincerely

Degendorff

[schneidergott]

In fact, most pictures had been traced. And the suits were not always as flawless as it seemed in the pictures.
@alden:
The cloths used in those days were rather heavy( 12 to 15 ounces) compared to actual lighter fabrics., so along with 3 layers of horsehair they became rather stiff.
Fact is, for what I know from experience with our very old customers, who might have been wearing such sort of coat in their youth, that german men actually preferred a heavier material(and some still do). They last longer and therefore give a better value for the money. I recently saw a customer wearing a Reid & Taylor suit made in the 70's, which was still in great condition, although the flared trouser hems looked out of date.
I can't tell for sure, but most of these pictures were taken at conventions and/ or fashion shows. So, to make the suits look perfect, the tailors, in most cases, chose materials, which were easy to work with.
Unfortunately there are only a very few bespoke tailors and dressmakers left in Germany, so there are no more conventions of the sort they had in the 50's and 60's.
These conventions and fashion show events, local or national, had also the purpose to exchange knowledge and experience! With that possibility gone I think we lost a lot more than a few thousand jobs!
Even todays books or magazines, at least here in Germany are more made for fashion designers and RTW clothing engineers.
Maybe that's why the catwalk designer clothes show such a bad fit!
I was lucky to find some old books from the 30's and 50's, as well as 100+ tailor magazines ranging to the late 60's. They hold priceless knowledge and information that can almost no longer be found.

SG

[alden]

BTW. Which outfit has reminiscenses of a Tracht in your opinion?

The first picture in the series Schirmbock Wien looks like something you would find in a men's shop in Munich (Loden-Frey) or Vienna..clothes with Tirolian flair.