Back of a Waistcoat

[EHR]

I'm looking into getting a waistcoat, and when I was speaking with a tailor I was a little thrown off. He recommended that I have the back of the waistcoat made of the garment fabric, in this case a gaberdine, where as I have always seen in store waistcoats with lining used for the back portion. Is this more common in bespoke tailoring? or have I just been looking at the wrong waistcoats?

[Chris Rimby]

I would much rather have the same cloth on the back anyhow.

[Martin Stall]

Usually, the back is indeed made of lining. Did the tailor tell you why he advised a cloth back?

As for your preference Chris, would you care to tell us why?

[Chris Rimby]

I don't like the look of shiny silk on anything except a tie.

[Cufflink79]

Usually the back of a vest or waistcoat would be the same lining of the jacket which is usually Bemberg.

Bemberg glides like ice, and it helps you put on and take off your jacket easier.

In the case of the waistcoat this will help of course with taking off and on of the jacket, but will glide better on the back of a chair or something else when you have your jacket off.

The only time I have seen a vest with the same back as the rest of the body is a sweater vest.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[Martin Stall]

I don't like the look of shiny silk on anything except a tie.

Understood. But, uhm, do you wear dinner jackets?

[Chris Rimby]

I don't like the look of shiny silk on anything except a tie.

Understood. But, uhm, do you wear dinner jackets?

Nope.

[EHR]

Thats what I had thought, I figured that by using the same farbic on the back it would wear more quickly on the lining of your jacket. My tailor advised the back not be of lining because he said it would look 'more tailored' and I think he meant it would look nicer. Since I'm making this as a stand alone waistcoat, and not as part of a suit, I'm going to see how it is altogether. Were I wear a jacket with it I think the lining back would be much smarter.

Does anyone here have a waistcoat wear the back is made of the facing fabric? I'm just curious if it gives a better overall appeareace?

[ER]

Which costs more? A metre of cloth or a metre of lining? And who pays the bill? Think about it.

[Martin Stall]

Usually, cloth will always be dearer than lining. (exception could be a fairly cheap cloth with a pure silk lining, but that would be an odd combination anyway)
However, with a bit of clever laying of the pattern, a cloth back doesn't have to cost that much more, and it's not unthinkable that a tailor would bear the extra cost to accommodate a good client.

As for the look: if you're looking at what you call a standalone waistcoat, a cloth back could make more sense. Myself I don't care much for the terming "looking more tailored" but that's personal. A standalone waistcoat with a lining back however, could give the impression that you omitted or decided not to put on your jacket, whereas a cloth back waistcoat could appear more "dressed". Just my personal thoughts, you know.

[bluscuro]

Due to the fact that the waistcoat is a stand-alone piece i.e not part of a suit, whether you use lining or self material will have no impact on the price.
Unless you are of truly elephantine proportions one metre of cloth (150width) will be more than sufficient to complete the waistoat with self material back.
Even if you were to consider a double breasted waistcoat with peak or shawl collar/lapel it should be adequate.
The fact that this is a "bespoke " commission allows you the freedom to design something that projects YOU. Forget what others may do. You are an individual ! Express that.

bluscuro

[EHR]

I received the waistcoat today, and having a fabric back is truly beautiful. It makes the waistcoat look more complete as I won't be wearing it without the jacket. It was actually made from only 70cm of cloth, so the fabric backing wasn't much of a difference in material cost at all

[HappyStroller]

Nowadays, I always ask for gold bemberg rayon lining for my jackets and waistcoats, as this may come in handy in survival situations when search parties are trying to spot your traveling party. But remember to tell the tailor to keep the lining well up inside jacket sleeves and well inside jacket and waistcoat edges, otherwise youwill find your friends thinking you must be crazy to use gold linings.

I would much rather have the same cloth on the back anyhow.

[MTM]

Nowadays, I always ask for gold bemberg rayon lining for my jackets and waistcoats, as this may come in handy in survival situations when search parties are trying to spot your traveling party.

I like that idea.

[Herbert]

Before i had my first bespoke 3 piece suit all of my waistcoats had lining in the back.
Now most of them i have with the same garment like the suit in the back.
And it feel pretty good!
Just my 2 cents


Herbert