shen zhen bespoke!

[luk-cha]

this is my first time to post any of my clothing online! i have beed playing around with a style of drape and this is the out come! so i hope you guys can give me some constructive comments to help me improve it!


here is the front and back, it is fully hand canvased and but machine stitched, the button holes are machined too, but i will take it back to get them re-done by hand as the fabric is too think for machine button holes to be useful.

it onle has flax and domette in the chest and in the shoulder i have got them to fold back the domette on it's self to give it some more support.


also i have got the to cut the shoulder seem on an exteme bias which with the high cut scye and pleated sleve head it is really comfy to wear and it does dance around when i put my arms up!

here are a couple of shot with me wearing it overall the fit is quite good (but i am up for sugestions on how to improve it) on but it could an inch longer IMHO


i think the gorge needs to be higher by an inch and a bit and the button stance too needs lowering a tad. the sleeves are about spot on length wise as i were a sports coat a tad shorter in the body and the sleave's a tad longer that a suit.

i have given it low side vent a la the Duke's to see if it makes a difference but so far i can not notice any


and i think that is about it so i look forward to your comments and questions

[Valentina Iv]

Quality is not depend how will make stitch – hand or machine, base problem of suit in improper sitting and incorrect cut. Your shoulder is downhill, you need in more high shoulders lining or more slope of shoulder.

[Tampan]

Hello Luk-cha,

That's a bold jacket you have there! I think the structuring of shoulders is a personal choice, and this looks more relaxed with sloped shoulders. It looks best from the back. From the front, I wonder if the buttons and button holes should form a more vertical line - it looks pulled-apart as it is. Your shirt is pretty bold too - perhaps it would be toned down by a plain tie and/or pocket square. If those are too formal for your intended use of the jacket, perhaps a plainer shirt would be best.

Cheers, Tampan

[Algernon]

It's difficult to tell where your natural waist is, which makes it hard to assess the button stance; one might be tempted to say it's fastening a bit high in relation to your waist, but the low trousers make it seem more so than it is perhaps. I wonder if letting the skirt out a little might help too?

Best wishes, Algernon.

[luk-cha]

the shoulders are total padless apart from an extra layer of Domette, i have biggish traps from a mis-spent youth in the gym and boxing. if i had a more built up shoulder then it would inhibit the ROM and start to dance around

the button holes will be re-done later so they will look better, the waist if off about an inch and a bit. but the trousers are low waisted so this will also add that impression too.

i did not want a lot of waist suppresion with this as it will give me a chance to pop a sweater on underneath in the colder weeks

i don think the skirt needs letting out as the open part wear you see the shirt form a nice X and i like this feature the most.

also looking at it more i think the pockets could do with lowering a bit too the beauty of patch pocket i guess, also i think the chest welted pocket too needs lowering an inch

[edhayes]

I think the jacket needs to be longer and the button lower, I also think that if you have thick shoulders but not a lot of taper to the waist, you might want to use a three button look.
I think that overall its a good start and you seem to have learned alot
I'm workout all the time but I eat so my chest is about 46 and my waist 39-so I have the jackets made not tight and make sure I have lots of drape and softenness in the front to show off upper body strength, you also can wear teh shoulders a bit over the shoulder to emphsize the point even more

[luk-cha]

Ed - thank you for your comments i agree that it needs an extra inch and a bit the the length, also the gorge needs to be a inch and a bit higher too and the button point lowering the same. this will give a much better balance.

interesting about the shoulder extend a little more i will have to get them to put a extra 1cm either side to see the difference.

with regards to the waist i do have a waist but it has not come thru' in this coat so well unless it is the way pictures have taken - what i might try is the way Matt's Rubinacci coat are made and put a front cut instead of at the side and see if this makes a difference?

[edhayes]

you have thick hands and a thick back(thats a compliment). I would make sure that the sleeves don't taper too much to the wrist and that you show some shirt cuff-otherwise your arms and hands will look like a extension excavator.
I still think you might like three buttons with the big soft shoulders and drape front and back. That way you'll look like a hitter facing or leaving.
Soft soft soft.

And make sure the waist on the pants is not cut too low.

[luk-cha]

Ed - again thanks for the pointers!

in fact i have quite smallish hands but i do have a think back and shoulders but i will try a less tapered sleeve next time, as i can always take it in - i personallly am not a fan of the 3 button coat and normally only have 1 or 2, but i might try 1 at some point.

the shirt's scye is not as highly cut as the JKT so it keeps riding up no matter how many times i kept pulling them down

generally i am please with this as it is not in the chinese tailoring text book and with only 1 fitting i think they have dont a pretty good job and it is a great starting point so i am looking forward to adding the comments made here to it and seeing the second generation!

thanks and if anyone has anything thing else to add feel free!

[Costi]

Just a few thoughts for your future projects, besides what others already advised:
Avoid shirt showing below your waist button (ie: lower buttoning point, higher waist trousers, less dramatic cutaway effect). It’s hard to tell the right proportion with head and legs missing, but I am almost sure a longer coat would work better. That would also help the patch pockets come down a few centimeters – as high as they are now I figure it’s quite awkward to put your hands inside.
A more generous roll should give the lapels a richer look, while the notch looks high enough to me. The back appears a little tight over the shoulder blades – is it?

I have a feeling you have given your tailor a lot of input and he concentrated so much on integrating your instructions into the garment that he didn’t pay enough attention to interpreting them. Try to have him digest this look you’re after, give him pictures, let him build a mental image of what you want and ask him to blend your ideas with his experience, rather than follow instructions undiscerningly. Particularly so if it’s a new style and tailoring philosophy to him. What is the kind of experience your tailor has?
But don’t concentrate on the jacket, try a holistic approach: have a shirt made with the right sleeve length / scye size that shows some cuff, have some trousers cut with a higher waist, give more thought to how the components correlate into the ensemble and then you’ll realize yourself in what way the coat design needs to be refined. Have fun!