Mahon / Rayner & Sturges bespoke shirts

[kirsch]

Hello all,

Has anyone had Mr. Mahon do a bespoke shirt for them through Rayner & Sturges? Just curious about the fit, quality of material, etc. Comments appreciated!

Thanks,
Chris

[jpontin]

I had six made: two in blue, two in cream, two in white, and one Bengal Stripe, and one pink.

Overeall, the experience was mixed. I very much like the design of the collar I chose, which Thomas Mahon somewhat risibly calls "Savile Row." The collar manages to be both very soft and high simultaneously, and is somewhat spread, without resembling something from Ralph Lauren. The fabrics were also high quality. The price is attractive.

However, the fit left something to be desired. Even though Mr. Mahon used the usual method of having one shirt made up first, and then altering the fit of subsequent shirts accordingly, all the shirts blouse alarmingly around my waist. To get them to fit, I have to pull the shirt tight over my torso, and then then tuck the shirt fabric in at the back.

Indeed, a few months later, when I was in Turnbull and Asser being measured for some shirts, the chap who measured me said wonderingly: "You don't want your shirts that loose, do you, Sir?"

Finally, the collar of one of the white shirts never sits right, and protrudes over the lapel of my suit coats.

In short, I like the collar well enough to be pleased with the shirts. But even though they are considerably cheaper than T&A bespoke, they do not have the same craftsmanship.

[ER]

I had six made: two in blue, two in cream, two in white, and one Bengal Stripe, and one pink.

Overeall, the experience was mixed. I very much like the design of the collar I chose, which Thomas Mahon somewhat risibly calls "Savile Row." The collar manages to be both very soft and high simultaneously, and is somewhat spread, without resembling something from Ralph Lauren. The fabrics were also high quality. The price is attractive.

However, the fit left something to be desired. Even though Mr. Mahon used the usual method of having one shirt made up first, and then altering the fit of subsequent shirts accordingly, all the shirts blouse alarmingly around my waist. To get them to fit, I have to pull the shirt tight over my torso, and then then tuck the shirt fabric in at the back.

Indeed, a few months later, when I was in Turnbull and Asser being measured for some shirts, the chap who measured me said wonderingly: "You don't want your shirts that loose, do you, Sir?"

Finally, the collar of one of the white shirts never sits right, and protrudes over the lapel of my suit coats.

In short, I like the collar well enough to be pleased with the shirts. But even though they are considerably cheaper than T&A bespoke, they do not have the same craftsmanship.

1) Rayner & Sturges is no longer owned by Nigel Sturges, he sold the business just after English Cut launched their shirts. The company is in new ownership.

2) Rayner & Sturges are a stock house with the facility to make made-to-measure shirts but these follow the same production line as their stock shirts so, whilst the measurements can be altered, the quality will be the same as their off-the-peg offering.

3)The Savile(Row) collar is one of the standard collar shapes offered by the R&S, it is not an exclusive collar to English Cut.

4) I believe that when TM makes a try-on shirt (it's not a calico shirt as you would get from a bespoke house) you have the opportunity to wear and wash it several times before making any alterations at the fitting. This is the time when you feedback the fact the body is too large so that it can be recut before work begins on the others. ( I think that what happened here is he probably forgot to tick the box for a slim fit before sending the order to R&S).

5) The shirtings are from Alumo, SIC Tess etc and are very good quality.

[Andre Yew]

When I met with Tom Mahon yesterday, he mentioned that he was no longer taking new shirt customers. You may want to ask anyway when you meet him.

--Andre

[ER]

Reading between the lines - he may be looking for a new manufacturer!

[Andre Yew]

I don't think he was --- he still sounded happy with R&S. I think it's just that he has enough customers, and wants to take care of them instead of being overwhelmed. As you may know, he's also not taking any new suit customers.

--Andre

[jpontin]

I reject the excuse that TM "probably forgot to tick the box for a slim fit before sending the order to R&S." After all, he measured my chest and torso. The fit should have reflected that. Yet what I received would have bloused-out on Orson Welles. My T&A shirts fit; my other bespoke shirts fit. I think it's bad workmanship and customer service--either on part of R&S, or TM, or both.

I am wearing a blue R&S shirt as I write and I can list one other fault: the tail is too short. Even though I am wearing a pair of very high-waisted Anderson and Sheppard suit trousers, the tail keeps on slipping out.