Shortening a "Long" Jacket?

[kirsch]

Hello all,

Is it possible for a good tailor to shorten (cut/fold/whatever) a jacket which has been branded "long?" I've got a wonderful RTW suit, but the length of the coat is too 1920's "gangster."

I find this problem anytime I buy a RTW suit--I like the sleeves to be "long," but not the body of the coat.

Thanks

[alden]

Its better not to even try it. I have rarely if ever seen a coat shortened that looked right.

The biggest problem is the pocket placement that will appear much too low.

Save up and get a new coat!

[falke]

I totally agree with Alden: do not even try. If you have this problem with RTW jackets in general, you are one of those "unlucky" people who needs bespoke or MTM. BTW, don't let a salesman in brainwashing you in believing that the jacket length is right for you. I have seen so many people get duped in buying a jacket that is obviously too long using a line like, "The jacket is not long, Italians like to wear their jackets a bit on the long side."

Falke

[Guest]

lt would be a hard feat to acheive. Firstly, the pockets would have to be adjusted, then the button holes and then the lapel would have to be recut. Seems impossible.

But: what if a tailor let the jacket out so that the area with the current buttonholes can be cut off, and new buttonholes can be cut.

[filangieri]

These days, most RTW brands cut their jackets too long, and the same principle applies to the sleeve length and to the width of the shoulders.
Any sartorially educated eye can clearly see that a long jacket with long sleeves and protruding shoulders is the standard way that the vast majority of adult males use to wear their jackets in our western cities.
Unfortunately, I believe that even an increasing number of bespoke customers are now making their orders "under the influence" of what their bosses, collegues and friends wear on a daily basis, and therefore they deliberately ask their tailors to cut the coat a little longer, to extend the coat-sleeve in order to prevent any linen exposure and to stuff the coat shoulders with ridicolous amounts of padding in a desperate attempt to look more "athletic".

[Martin Stall]

How much shorter does it have to be? And how much is it worth to you?

Because if you really want it done, ant whatever price, you could consider having a good tailor 'pick up' the coat at the shoulders. But that's a tough job: the sleeves have to come out, the collar has to be removed and shortened, and the shoulder seems will have to be displaced. BUT: if the collar is already short, meaning a high gorge, it will look terrible because the gorge will end up even higher. In short: unless you have a really good tailor, better not try.

[Richard3]

Perhaps you should post pictures of you wearing the coat?

[kirsch]

I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend. I'd say it needs to come up 3 inches or so! Which, I think, would be quite a bit.

Seems that most folks say it's not very feasible, though.

[Guest]

l've got a nice coat (belongs to a suit) that is alittle long. l'm going to see what my tailor can do with it. He often works miracles, but l reckon this will test his metal. l'll report back on the results (good or bad) in a month or two.

[filangieri]

Its better not to even try it. I have rarely if ever seen a coat shortened that looked right.

The biggest problem is the pocket placement that will appear much too low.

Save up and get a new coat!

I'm 100% with Alden.
Can someone please explain how can a tailor shorthen the lenght of the coat and then ... "move" the pockets to adjust the balance of the jacket ?
I can't even imagine a gifted tailor successfully performing such a task with patch pockets !
Unfortunately, the path to masculine elegance is a long, hard and steep one, and for those who decide to walk it there are no shortcuts that can save money, sweat or blood.
Substantial alteration jobs give you the illusion of saving money, leaving you with something that you'll never wear with pride and joy.
We've all been there and done that before !
Believe me, if you really wish to feel the deep, intense pleasures of true bespoke elegance you should leave such alteration projects behind and start from scratch ordering real bespoke garments from the very best tailor that you can reach and afford.

[Martin Stall]

Believe me, if you really wish to feel the deep, intense pleasures of true bespoke elegance you should leave such alteration projects behind and start from scratch ordering real bespoke garments from the very best tailor that you can reach and afford.

Amen!

Ps: moving pockets can't be done. Indeed

[Hartline]

In a similar vein of trying to salvage something. Can the quarters of a coat be cut-away a little more? Or does that also create discord?

[bengal-stripe]

Its better not to even try it. I have rarely if ever seen a coat shortened that looked right.!

I wouldn’t be so doctrinal.

Of course, pockets that are cut into the fabric, cannot be moved (patch pockets can), but quite a few of the current crop of ‘designer gear’ features a very high pocket stand and a rather long, flared skirt. I am thinking of the likes of Ozwald Boateng or Richard James. In this case, you might even improve the garment if you shortened the skirt a bit. After all, a zoot suit has an ordnary coat with extra long skirt

A&S cut their pockets (at least for tweed coats) rather on the low, slouchy side; you couldn’t shorten one of their coats.

Just measure in a well-fitting coat the distance from pocket down to hem and compare it with the jacket in question.

[kolecho]

I thought of shortening my coat before (by only 1/4"), but gave up on the idea after discussing it with my tailor, and Alden. It can be an expensive mistake. In my case, 1/4" does not make that much of a difference to start with.

My pre-LL days bespoke coats that are too long now belong to someone else. It is the best route IMO. Like Filangieri said, there is no shortcut. Pay some "tuition", move on, and live to share your own experiences with others.

[Concordia]

I've had a jacket shortened by about 1/2" and it was a successful operation, if an expensive one.

More than that is risking conflict with the pockets.