Mark Seitelman wrote:There is no difference in manufacture or "lines" among the Oxxford products.
E.g., Hickey Freeman has different lines of clothing. The lowest level is Hickey which is fused and is made for the "young" market of 20's to 30's. Hickey Freeman also makes fused suits for various department stores. The standard Hickey Freeman suit is the "Collection" which is a half canvas suit mostly machine sewn. The highest level is "Hand Tailored" which is a hand tailored suit.
l never knew that. l thought all Hickeys were canvassed. That is very informative. l tend towards American suits because they fit me the best by far. Kiton, Borrelli and Brioni look aweful on me. l tried on a Kiton RTW last week.....the buttons were two inches above the buttonholes [no exaggeration].
Mark Seitelman wrote:Both collars shown have the same amount of hand sewing. Both are attached by hand sewing. The top photo shows a machine line of stitches. I have never discerned a difference in the collars in my various Oxxford coats. Indeed, its handmade collar which hugs the neck is a hallmark of the brand.
l so looove the way those Oxxford collars fit my neck.
Mark Seitelman wrote:As for the buttonholes, I do not see how the buttonholes are "ugly." They are double sided for strength, and they are an Oxxford hallmark.
l can't agree on that one. Check out the buttonholes on Borrelli etc......far far more elegantly done...no comparison.
Mark Seitelman wrote:Since Oxxford is a handmade garment there can be some variation from one 42R to another in fit. Each garment is individually cut and sewn.
Yes, i've found that out. l had one 42R fit me so bad (l had it sent to me.....never had a chance to try it on beforehand) that l had to get it completely taken apart and completely rebuilt, even the collar had to be completely thrown out. Other 42R coats have fit me really well and in need of no alteration.
My tailor tells me [funny enough] that Oxxford has more of an English style than American. What do you and others think about that theory?
Mark, you have always been one of my favourite posters. You really seem to know your stuff.
l should also add: Mark, your MTM Oxxfords look and fit better than many bespoke suits l have seen. You are very lucky to get a great fit out of MTM, other people [like me] aren't near as lucky. The Borrelli and Brioni guys have told me that MTM simply can't cater for my body type.
l.D.D