Carmina cordovan wholecut

[kolecho]

I contacted Miguel Font in Carmina, Paris. He does have a cordovan wholecut. Here are some scans of the wholecut in brandy coloured cordovan. I plan to get it in burgundy coloured cordovan (like the brogue version in the scan).

I would like to seek some comments on this shoe.

- Sizing: Miguel mentioned Carmina sizes are similar to Edward Green. However, MAlden's comments on LL chukka boot suggests otherwise. Could anyone advice on the subject? I wear EG UK8.5E.
- Do you think the last is elegant for a wholecut design?
- Is that made in "Rain" last?
- Are Carmina shoes Goodyear welted?
- Is the cordovan used for Carmina shoes from Horween, Chicago?

[bengal-stripe]

All Carmina/Albaladejo shoes are Goodyear welted and manufactured to a very high quality standard (nice waist, channelled soles).

They work with Horween shell cordovan. In the Paris shop, I’ve seen the crups with the “Horween” stamp on the back. I wouldn’t know if they use other suppliers for the more unusual colors. (I believe there is only another tannery in Japan that works with horsehide. Unlike ordinary leather, there aren’t lots of tanneries dealing with the stuff).

I agree Carmina sizes are similar to EG, but the shoes are a bit longer. In EG a last 202 in 8E, fits nicely in the circumference but is a fraction short. I usually go for 8 ½ D, but in Carmina 8E has enough length for my needs.)

Hope that helps - Rolf

[manton]

I have one pair of Carminas, cordovan blucher boots. I am normally an American 12 D, which is 11.5 D from Edward Green. My Carmina boots are 10.5 EE -- and they fit perfectly! Go figure. Make sure you try on a variety of sizes.

[rjman]

Walking by Alb. this weekend on my weekly trawl back from Charvet (so it seems) saw that Alb. had a sign for Horween in its window. They must be pretty proud of their shell cordovan. The shoes look gorgeous, BTW.

[kolecho]

Thanks for all the replies. I am planning on a mail order and therefore do not have the luxury of trying them.

Does anyone here wear EG 8.5E in last 202, 606 or 888? What is your Carmina shoe size equivalent?

The other alternative is to try some when I am in New York next. Does Peter Elliott carry shoes in the same last as the wholecut I posted?

[smoothjazzone]

While the pictures seem nice enough, majority of the Carmina cordovan shoes at Peter Eliot and BG (they carry them too) are quite unattractive -- what gives?

[bry2000]

I ordered the LL Chukka. I think it is a nice boot at a decent price given that it is made of shell cordovan. Carmina does have some clunky lasts, but the last of the wholecut is attractive. I have seen it firsthand.

The LL chukka boot is made on the Rain last. I think I am a UK8D in the EG 606 last. I took a 7D on the LL Chiukka boot. I tried on the 7E, but decided to order the shoe in a 7D even though I was not able to try that size on.

[alden]

Recently, Carmina has come out with a couple of new lasts that maybe have not made it to the USA yet.

The Rain last is a square toe design:



The Robert is an elegant round toe:



The Spanish chukka in “Ruby” cordovan:

[SouthPender]

Recently, Carmina has come out with a couple of new lasts that maybe have not made it to the USA yet.

The Rain last is a square toe design:

Michael, just a small point: I'm curious as to why you'd describe this toe form as "square toe." It looks tapered, to be sure, but the toe itself seems to be nicely rounded. Could we, perhaps, describe this as a "chiseled toe"?

[smoothjazzone]

Love the round toe last -- if you compare these to whats available here in NY, you would think that they were two different companies

[kolecho]

My Carmina cordovan wholecut in Rain last arrived recently. This pair is in burgundy, but they look mid brown in the flesh. These are the ones that fit me. I had a pair that was too long sent back to Paris to exchange for this pair. The fit now is perfect at 7.5E (I wear EG Dover 606 UK8E). I have a fetish for wholecut and cordovan, so this is quite a treat.

Since the last fits me well, I have ordered another pair of 2 eyelet cordovan derby pictured below. I asked for a dark burgundy this time to distinguish it from its wholecut cousin. Miguel has been very accomodating with my requests and language issues.

Thanks to forum members and Alden for providing information this splendid shoemaker. The quality is superlative, at least on par with C&J Handgrade IMO.

[alden]

Thanks for posting these pictures of the lovely shoes. Is the 2 eyelet a cordovan as well. Is that the whiskey cordovan?

Cheers

[kolecho]

The two eyelet shot is from Miguel. I believe it is box calf. I will post pictures of mine when I get them in a few weeks.

[kolecho]

BTW, there is a Dover-like model that Carmina makes in Queens last. Has anyone had experience with this last?

[BenedictSpinola]

I saw the wholecut on the rain last on a recent trip to Barcelona. Best looking wholecut I've ever seen.