Opinions/Evaluations of Some Wool Suitings

[SouthPender]

Hwa Seng Textile in Singapore have available five lines of wool in their Autumn-Winter Collection. These are:

1. Hield - Their 3301s series and 1161s series of what appear to be worsted wools;
2. Dormeuil - Their 31s series of flannels;
3. Smith Renton - Their 18s series of what must be cashmere blends;
4. Taylor and Littlewood - Their 18s series of worsted suitings; and
5. Havanna Samso - Their 5500 series of lambswool suitings.

Do any London Lounge members have experience with one or more of these particular wools? Or has anyone had any experience with wools from the lines noted above and can comment on the general quality of what they produce?

I'm exploring other avenues too, but these wools are particularly accessible at what appear to be comparatively reasonable prices (although I'm prepared to be corrected on that point). They fall in the $57 - $65 US per metre price range.

In particular, I'm looking for a 10-12 oz. flannel and same weight worsted twill or herringbone for some MTM trousers for use this coming fall and winter (which is quite temperate here in Vancouver).

More detail on these five lines below:

http://www.hst.com.sg/acatalog/Autumn_W ... ction.html

[aus_md]

I have a pair of odd trousers made from the Dormeuil flannel in a charcoal grey. I am very happy with the cloth, which is a worsted flannel. They are ideal for winter in Sydney.

[Herbert]

Hi SouthPender

Sorry to go a little bit off topic. Do you have a contact email from Hield or an adress? Can´t find anything
Thank you in advance!!

Herbert

[aus_md]

Herbert

Hield's website is here.

[Herbert]

thanks aus_md

i think they have the prince of wales check wich im looking for *fingerscrossed*
Maybe they will send me some swatches


Herbert

[SouthPender]

Aus_md, thanks for the information. Two further questions, if I may:

1. Is the flannel you used the same as the one in the Hwa Seng webpage? Do you know its weight and, possibly, yarn number?

2. Do you know how to navigate through the Hield website to actually see any fabrics? I can't seem to do so. Perhaps one has to contact them to move on to the next step.

One other question about Hield is whether or not they sell to the general public, or only to established tailors. I'm finding that some wool suppliers will sell to the general public, but at higher prices than to tailors. This makes sense, I guess, in the overall scheme of things. Other suppliers just flatly refuse to do so.

[Will]

You might send him an email and ask if he still has any of the Scabal 13oz. Super 100s. He had a book of them up last year and I have a very nice gray herringbone suit from it.

[aus_md]

SouthPender, the cloth my trousers were made from is the Dormeuil Flannel 85004 and I guess it would be an 11 or 12 oz. The fabric number on Hwa Seng's site is their own, but I would think that my fabric is closest to their number 3127.

I am afraid that I have been unable to find pictures of the fabrics on the Hield website.

[SouthPender]

I've now received some fabric samples from Hield. They sent some flannels (I'd guess worsted flannel) in Super 150s, and some worsteds in Super 100s. These yarn numbers were the recommendation of the person (Samer) who arranged to have the fabrics sent. The Super 150s flannels are 240 g., or about 8 oz. The Super 100s worsteds are 330 g., or about 11 oz.

One question I have is whether it is a good idea to go with the finer Super 150s for trousers as they will likely be exposed to more impact, friction, and abrasion that a jacket would be. The other question about Super 150s for trousers is whether or not they would fall or drape properly. I know that this can be a problem with the very high Supers (180s and above). What do you all think about these factors with Super 150s?

I have also received some samples from Lesser. Of particular interest is a worsted flannel labeled Lumbs Golden Bale, which I surmise is about a Super 100s of about 9.5/10 oz. It is priced at the same point as the Hield Super 150s worsted flannel noted above. Another lovely Lesser wool is a worsted flannel at 11/12 oz., but priced at about one-half of the Lumbs Golden Bale. I also received some very nice worsteds from Lesser at what appear to be good prices. Incidentally, the Lesser agent wrote "...we do not really quote [yarn] numbers for our qualities."

Does anyone have any knowledge of the Lumbs Golden Bale fabric? How should I rate this wool in comparison with Hield's Super 150s--since both carry about the same price?

Finally, can anyone comment on wool from Richard Harrison--Harrisons (Burley) Ltd.? I have some samples coming from them as well.

[Costi]

SouthPender, as far as trousers are concerned you might well let your worries be your most trustworthy style guide. For all the reasons you stated and unless I were to commission a S150 suit, I'd choose heavier cloth for trousers (or you may think of sewing bits of lead into the hem to make them hang straight, as it is done with curtains )

[Will]

The Golden Bale cloths are some of the finest English wovens, period. Forget about Super ratings when you look at them.

My favorite suits are all from those books.

[DD MacDonald]

Southpender, I just received a suit in a Golden Bale fabric that is just wonderful in the hand and on the shoulder. I recommend it without reservation. I posted a scan of the fabric in the cloth review section:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=5241

As to pedigree of quality, the mantonian bible tells us that "decades ago, the spinners Joseph Lumb & Sons began awarding the honorific "Golden Bale" to the raw wool they judged to be the finest brought to market in a given year. ....when the first 100s count wool won the Golden Bale award the merchants were so astounded that, in a fit of exuberance, they dubbed it "Super 100s".

We also learn from the sage that dandies generally disdain the counting of numbers knowing that there is more to quality than micronage. These gentlemen place their focus on fiber length, strength and elasticity, not to mention the "sniff test" of their collaborating tailors and the forbearance of their bank managers. Indeed, the mantonian text teaches that the best goods designated Golden Bale today "are not stratosphiric supers but wool with counts in the low hundreds that is selected, spun, woven, and finished according to far higher standards than those prevailing among the makers of the ubersupers".