mrwynn wrote:It looks to me that the jacket pictured has already molded to another person's body, not the wearer. I would not consider that an idea example of the Neapolitan fit. Particularly the shoulders are a problem. With a lightly constructed shoulder, the point to point measurement is critical, with the shoulder seam riding precisely at the corner of the shoulder. This jacket looks to be an inch or two too wide.
A much better example can be found on this forum in the post regarding the new London outpost of Rubinacci.
I would agree that this shoulder is not correct for the wearer. However, if you contrast the slightly narrow shoulder line of young Rubinacci in the LL thread, with this picture of his father
, you will see that a shoulder line that is equally narrow to the wearer's line is not de rigeur.
That being said, this jacket of Kolecho's does not fit.
One thing that I have noticed about SOME jacketsmade in Naples is theat the shoulder seam is placed further forward than many English jackets. THe effect is to give a more relaxed shoulder line than the self conscious shoulders back position that is seen even on rather natural shouldered British cuts.
If this jacket has excess fabric in the back, chest and shoulder, you might just have something that is the wrong size.
