reasonably priced soft tailored suit

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 2:55 pm

marburyvmadison wrote:If we are talking solely about London, I do believe that there are better value tailors that are superior to GB. But I'll save that for another topic, with pictures. Some seasoned forum posters use (used) them already.

And BB, two of my friends (not that Styleforum poster) were attracted to GB precisely because of Crompton's post and the outcome, to me, was terrible. This is what I've seen from two people whom I personally know (and yes, they don't have knowledge of coats). And I'm not using some insurmountable yardstick here. Hence, seeing this post about Browne and on the other forum, jolted me and made me decide to add my 2 pennies worth, to caution the OP and prospective customer.

On a side note, vis-a-vis that comment you made about the chap who bespoke a grey DB at GB; he has, to my knowledge, significant theoretical knowledge on garment making, so though it might be his maiden foray into bespeaking a coat, he isn't really the archetypal novice.
OK, I am genuinely interested in seeing that topic (with pictures), as I am always ready to try something better. If there are other tailors out there (in London) in the GB price range which make superior clothes, please share them with us.

BB
marburyvmadison
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 2:56 pm

old henry wrote:We are having a pleasant Sunday morning discussion here. But the GB flyer photos are on normally built clothes models and fit very "quick". These models can put on anything. And the photo of the "real" customer is what happens in "real life". The customers suit is not good.
Well said. This. It might well be the case that that SF poster, as well as my two friends had a harder anatomical structure to fit, and GB, with their house blocks, wasn't able to deal with that?

Thanks BB, though, for sharing your feedback on GB.
old henry
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:00 pm

It has nothing to do with "Blocks"
Blocks are blocks.
Does the " " cutter " " know what to do with the blocks?
Does the " " cutter " " know how to read the structural attitude of the customer and put it to his paper.
Last edited by old henry on Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
marburyvmadison
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:01 pm

old henry wrote:It has nothing to do with "Blocks"
Blocks are blocks.
Does the " " cutter " " know what to do with the blocks?
Does the " " cutter " " know how to read the structural attitude of the customer and put it to his paper.

Thank you for clarifying that.
Last edited by marburyvmadison on Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:02 pm

marburyvmadison wrote:
old henry wrote:We are having a pleasant Sunday morning discussion here. But the GB flyer photos are on normally built clothes models and fit very "quick". These models can put on anything. And the photo of the "real" customer is what happens in "real life". The customers suit is not good.
Well said. This. It might well be the case that that SF poster, as well as my two friends had a harder anatomical structure to fit, and GB, with their house blocks, wasn't able to deal with that?

Thanks BB, though, for sharing your feedback on GB.
Sure, and thanks also to you for your views and comments. I love a spirited bespoke discussion :D

Just one point though, Graham Browne does not use pre-made house blocks, they make individual paper patterns, using the Thornton system. I've seen them do it in their shop.

BB
old henry
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:07 pm

There is nothing wrong with using blocks. Many great tailors use blocks. Raphael uses blocks. Toninno Christophoro used blocks.."Here nor There" Do they know how to adjust for "attitude". Are they Tailors in the "Old" sense of the word ? I am standing up for my craft here. And I am missing no point.
alden
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:11 pm

I agree with you, though I doubt the posts of "real people" I linked to on StyleForum are in any way adverts. Furthermore, though Simon Crompton's blog has gotten gradually more commercial, I think it a bit unfair to just stamp his blog posts as invalid advertisement. I have been following his blog for years and he can indeed be critical with many of the "products" he "tests". Mind you also the Graham Browne bespoke blog posts were made before he had a big, established readership and was considered a "hot" style blogger. I would be more sceptical to the blog post on the Anderson and Sheppard suit he got for free.
BB

That is the kind of attitude that keeps these guys in business. A blogger who receives any goods, services or cash in exchange for an opinion or publicity is providing advertising. Sorry I have my feet planted in the soil of the real world. These antics are not permitted on the LL and I cringe reading second hand accounts of the mischief.

This site is closely monitored to keep the advertisers away...and many have had to go to other forums or create blogs to ply their trade because of my attitude. I like to think that is why many members come here to participate in the club. But credulity springs eternal...

Your experience is what matters to the world weary here on the LL..and that is good enough.

Cheers
bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:18 pm

alden wrote:
I agree with you, though I doubt the posts of "real people" I linked to on StyleForum are in any way adverts. Furthermore, though Simon Crompton's blog has gotten gradually more commercial, I think it a bit unfair to just stamp his blog posts as invalid advertisement. I have been following his blog for years and he can indeed be critical with many of the "products" he "tests". Mind you also the Graham Browne bespoke blog posts were made before he had a big, established readership and was considered a "hot" style blogger. I would be more sceptical to the blog post on the Anderson and Sheppard suit he got for free.
BB

That is the kind of attitude that keeps these guys in business. A blogger who receives any goods, services or cash in exchange for an opinion or publicity is providing advertising. Sorry I have my feet planted in the soil of the real world. These antics are not permitted on the LL and I cringe reading second hand accounts of the mischief.

This site is closely monitored to keep the advertisers away...and many have had to go to other forums to ply their trade because of my attitude. I like to think that is why many members come here to participate in the club. But credulity springs eternal...

Your experience is what matters to the world weary here on the LL..and that is good enough.

Cheers
Alden, I do appreciate the LL's rare, "genuine" atmosphere where there is no commercial considerations in play. That is why LL is the go to source for me for all things bespoke.

However, as a more general point, would you not say that it is also fair to try to counter arguments that a certain tailor produces a "terrible fit" with the evidence one has in hand? Especially when the first argument is based on a post on another forum? If I had said nothing in this thread, then I fear that the criticism against Graham Browne would be fairly one sided, and the impression that this thread would leave to the casual reader was that Graham Browne is no good.

BB
aston
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:28 pm

Goodness!!

I have several GB suits. If you know what you want, and especially what you do not want, I think they do a pretty good job, and I think they offer good value at around £1k. On the one occassion I was genuinely unhappy, they produced a new suit and I was then happy. Bear in mind that, one way of keeping prices down is to spend less time on a garment, so baste, then straight to finish is their norm.

If, as has been claimed, there is better quality available at around this price point, then share, please.

BTW, I also have several suits made at many times this price point from SR houses. Not sure if they are worth the difference.
marburyvmadison
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:38 pm

bond_and_beyond wrote:
alden wrote:
I agree with you, though I doubt the posts of "real people" I linked to on StyleForum are in any way adverts. Furthermore, though Simon Crompton's blog has gotten gradually more commercial, I think it a bit unfair to just stamp his blog posts as invalid advertisement. I have been following his blog for years and he can indeed be critical with many of the "products" he "tests". Mind you also the Graham Browne bespoke blog posts were made before he had a big, established readership and was considered a "hot" style blogger. I would be more sceptical to the blog post on the Anderson and Sheppard suit he got for free.
BB

That is the kind of attitude that keeps these guys in business. A blogger who receives any goods, services or cash in exchange for an opinion or publicity is providing advertising. Sorry I have my feet planted in the soil of the real world. These antics are not permitted on the LL and I cringe reading second hand accounts of the mischief.

This site is closely monitored to keep the advertisers away...and many have had to go to other forums to ply their trade because of my attitude. I like to think that is why many members come here to participate in the club. But credulity springs eternal...

Your experience is what matters to the world weary here on the LL..and that is good enough.

Cheers
Alden, I do appreciate the LL's rare, "genuine" atmosphere where there is no commercial considerations in play. That is why LL is the go to source for me for all things bespoke.

However, as a more general point, would you not say that it is also fair to try to counter arguments that a certain tailor produces a "terrible fit" with the evidence one has in hand? Especially when the first argument is based on a post on another forum? If I had said nothing in this thread, then I fear that the criticism against Graham Browne would be fairly one sided, and the impression that this thread would leave to the casual reader was that Graham Browne is no good.

BB
BB, I think you neglected my point that I have two friends who have used GB, and the fit was quite terrible. I think talk is cheap so I shall try to organize a meeting and try and take pictures of their suits, weird as it may be. I don't think they went back to get the problems fixed.

Like has been said, nothing justifies GB letting that fella as well as the suits on two of my friends out of the door like that. I may have been influenced by the three terribly fitting suits by him that I've encountered. But that is, unfortunately, my account of it.

*For all purposes, I'd like to point that, in several posts that have been made, and even in Aston's comment, he did say that 'If you know what you want, and especially what you do not want, I think they do a pretty good job'. This speaks to the customer who has some rudimentary knowledge of how he wants his suit to fit, and not the uninitiated novice (like my two friends, and probably a couple other posters), who left everything to GB, were left with suits that fit terribly.

I just think that when it boils down to fundamental issues of fit, whether or not something is to be gained out of the extra work put in, and whether or not the inexperienced customer might be able to see the faults in it, the cutter/tailor should do it to his best. To be a tailor in the 'old' sense of the word.
old henry
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:46 pm

Thats right. Letting this trusting "novice" out the door like that is a disgrace. I need see no other suit. .
It is a ...knowledge of fit... issue and an ..honor.. issue and a ...respect.. issue. I feel bad for that guy. He deserver much more effort.
Last edited by old henry on Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:46 pm

marburyvmadison wrote:
BB, I think you neglected my point that I have two friends who have used GB, and the fit was quite terrible. I think talk is cheap so I shall try to organize a meeting and try and take pictures of their suits, weird as it may be. I don't think they went back to get the problems fixed.

Like has been said, nothing justifies GB letting that fella as well as the suits on two of my friends out of the door like that. I may have been influenced by the three terribly fitting suits by him that I've encountered. But that is, unfortunately, my account of it.

*For all purposes, I'd like to point that, in several posts that have been made, and even in Aston's comment, he did say that 'If you know what you want, and especially what you do not want, I think they do a pretty good job'. This speaks to the customer who has some rudimentary knowledge of how he wants his suit to fit, not the uninitiated novice (like my two friends, and probably a couple other posters), who left everything to GB, were left with suits that fit terribly.
Great, I look forward to seeing them, but look even more forward to seeing your suggestions for better tailors at this price point.

I believe I provided at least one link to a post on StyleForum of a guy that left it to Graham Browne (ie Russel) to make the decisions on his coat, and that one also looked pretty good.

I do believe that going to GB will require some rudimentary knowledge, so if one is completely lost with regards to the basics perhaps GB is not for such a person. Perhaps SR might be better in such a case, or perhaps such a "novice" should do some research about fit etc, then go to GB and save (at least) GBP 2000 in the process :D

Could we then perhaps agree that for those with some interest and general knowledge of suits, and fit in particular, will receive good value when going to GB as they know what to ask for and what not to accept? If that is the case, perhaps the best advice to "bespoke novices" is to "read up" :lol:

BB
old henry
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:52 pm

Thats BullShit. "Read up" ?? If you know NOTHING and go to Edwin DuBoise or Lenny Logsdale and hand him your trust you will walk out of his shop a few months down the road with a Damned happy suit. "Tripping over Dollars chasing Dimes".. Perhaps buy one good suit.
old henry
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:54 pm

I gota go .. Have a great day Fellas.
aston
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:56 pm

Old Henry

Sound advice, perhaps, but.........what advice do you have that you would give somebody who has a budget of £1k?

That is what this whole piece is missing; the whole focus is on the ideal, and little thought is being given to practicality.

I drive an Aston Martin V8 Roadster. I would far rather drive a DBS Volante, but I am short of about £100k.
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