E & G Cappelli, Naples

[tteplitzmd]

In June I spent a few days in Naples. Upon the Ambrosi's recommendation I stopped in to see Patrizio Cappelli. Cappelli is the quieter alternative to Marinella for made to order ties, scarves, pocket squares. While there are a lot of goods ready made to look at in the showroom, the better option is to choose from the raw silks and challis. Width and length are specified, and the goods made at the "factory" as Patrizio calls it. The showroom is centrally located in the upscale shopping area of Naples, in a courtyard (which is also occupied by "the most famous tailor in Naples" per Salvatore Ambrosi: Formosa). Patrizio's English is better than my Italian. Educated as a chemist/pharmacist, he went in to the family business. A delightful guy.

[alden]

Cappelli ties are quite good. I am not sure where "the factory" is or if it is Naples, but the products are generally good. I suppose part of the interest of Marinella (notwithstanding the excellent ties made in London) is Mr. Marinella himself.

I hope you did not just walk by the atelier of Mario Formosa. I have always considered him the best tailor in Naples. He is not as accessible or sales driven like the famous brand in town, but his clothes are of superior quality in every respect.

Cheers

Michael

[dopey]

For those who do not make it to Naples, Mina Adamo of Napoli Su Misura brings Capelli to you. She travels with a fairly large selection of Capelli's silks from which you choose, which are then made up into ties, to order. She visits New York every couple of months and other cities as well. The ties are well made, but more importantly, have a beautiful feel to them.

I am wearing a Capelli tie today. It is a navy faille, untipped with a rolled edge and of partially lined, standard three-fold construction. For some reason, this has become my favorite tie. It is nicely made, but not nearly as beautifully finished as ties made by Sam Hober (for example). But there is something about how it ties up, whether it is the silk or the lining or something else I can't identify, that makes it my favorite.

[tteplitzmd]

The tie on the left is silk faille. I concur with Dopey. It is heavy, knots beautifully, and has a sort of matte finish, unusual for silk. The tie to it's right is a summer loosely woven silk, sort of a knit but not quite. The other three are heavy wool challis, which is not so easy to find.

I didn't photograph the pocket square or the scarf I got for my wife. The scarf is a variant on a Hermes design, but incorporating some historical motifs unique to Naples.

[tteplitzmd]

I forgot to add that I had coffee with Ambrosi and Formosa. He was intrigued by the saga of the trousers I wore: Loro Piana cotton bought in Brooklyn, shipped to Hong Kong, sent back to the U.S. Formosa had a good eye. If I had time I would have considered having something made, but I have sworn off remote tailoring except for shirts and trousers. Ambrosi changed my pattern and had time for a fitting.

[whnay.]

Nice ties Terry, I especially like the wools. Patrizio is a nice fella. Did you happen to see his selection of cotton / wool and silk / wool blends? Incredible selection.

Looks like Formosa is on the world wide web, I like the website.

http://www.sartoriaformosa.it/

[whnay.]

Here are a few I picked up earlier this past year:

[alden]

I forgot to add that I had coffee with Ambrosi and Formosa.

Terry, were you with Mario Formosa, who must be in his late sixties, or Gennaro?

Michael

[tteplitzmd]

The younger. People known by only one name tend to be very good at what they do: Django, Satchmo, Formosa.

[alden]

Whnay

Nice ties.

Next time you go to Naples you might want visit Formosa. The photos on the website don't remind me of the tailor or the clothes I saw. The exaggerated and sculpted waist is not a familiar image. Maybe those pictures were chosen to entice younger clients to the shop. (Maybe Gennaro Formosa is doing a Luca R.) But Mario Formosa's shoulder is nothing short of great. On the site it is called a spalla scesa, another term for a natural shoulder. Formosa is known for making the best DB in town but I preferred the SB cut with a little more room all around. But if I ever decide to take up Flamenco or the Tango, I will look up Gennaro.

On the other hand, the next time you come to Naples, you could come to Sicily instead.

Cheers

Michael

[andreyb]

I didn't photograph the pocket square

I did!



The one with blue rib is Cappelli's. The green one is from J Press. See the difference!

(Photo was made for my other post.)

Andrey

[Parker]

Very nice. I like the subtleness of Capelli patterns.

The Formosa jackets look nice as well. I like the sweeping curves of the lapels and front quarters. The DB is especially sweet.

[couch]

From the way the jackets pull in sharply (rather than curving smoothly) at the base of the shoulder blades and flare out in the skirt, it looks like they have all been gathered and pinned fairly dramatically on the forms. I suspect the actual line is much more subtle and pleasing. The shoulders are indeed very nice, especially on the ivory-colored jacket.

[charle22]

Cappelli's neckwear seem more malleable than Marinella's. I've ordered from the latter, but wear less frequently now partly due to oversized knots. Cappelli's color palette and geometries are unique.