Headed to London to find the right Tailor

[st.tully]

Thank you all for the input on my post asking for Savile Row advice for the "Full Grown" man. I think the answer in sum is that there are not hard and fast rules for which style/cut is best - it depends on the talent of the tailor.

At the end of the month, I plan to spend a week in London with the sole purpose of finding the right tailor for my God given shape - 5'11" and 240 lbs. Shoulders are 48/46 and waist is 42. Round face.

I have been doing lots of internet research and have read a huge number of posts here and AAAC. Of course these posts span a number of years and cutters seem to move around on the Row. As it stands now I plan to "interview" five tailors:

1) Henry Poole. Cut seems to be in the middle of hard and soft. Reputation of great customer service. Visits Washington DC four times a year.

2) Davies. Well regarded by a number of forum members, "medwards" in particular, who have decades of experience. Able to cut hard or soft. I like what I have read about Graham Lawless being a perfectionist. Visits Washington DC two times a year.

3) Steven Hitchcock. I like the personality he presents on his blog and I like the look of his work. He is younger than me and will be around for a long time. He has a soft cut which I originally thought would be best for my form - although I'm not sure about this now. Priced on the lower side of the Row. Does not visit Washington DC.

4) Dege and Skinner. Good reviews on the forum - although a number of these positive threads are from the time Graham Lawless was still with the firm. Mr. Skinner has been very responsive on the email. Very well regarded shirtmaker as well. Visits Washington DC three times per year.

5) Meyer and Mortimer. Good reviews in forums - especially from member "Frog in Suit". Probably the most military in cut. Visits Washington DC four times per year.

*) Sims and MacDonald and other off off Row tailors (whose prices run 1000-1500). I have read numerous posts about these fellows and they are positive and in general are considered a value. Unfortunately, I don't think any of them travel to the States. Some of them don't have websites of even email addresses. I don't plan to visit any of these firms unless I'm wrong about travel.

Obviously, none of the above is from personal experience - just parroting what I have read on the forum. Those of you with new and current info - PLEASE chime in here and tell me the latest scoop!!

I'm a little nervous about the prospect of "interviewing" these fellows but it is an awful lot of my money they want for their services.

Thank you all in advance for your help. I will of course update this thread with my adventures.

[couch]

You may have already considered him, but Edwin DeBoise of Steed also travels to D.C., and you might be able to arrange to meet him while you're in London. He definitely leans toward the softer style, but is flexible about how much fullness goes into the jacket. He cuts beautiful trousers as well. If you find you like the softer cut on your shape, he might be a serious contender.

Bon voyage et bonne chance!

[Mark Seitelman]

Alan Bennett, the proprietor of Davies, makes it to NYC four times a year. I cannot comment on the Washington, DC, trips. Of course, you can always scoot up to NYC.

I recommend Davies.

[dopey]

I have used both Dege & Skinner (beginning when they were just Dege) and more recently, Davies. I have been very happy with Davies of late and can certainly recommend them.

[culverwood]

Have a great holiday. Will you start off the suit when you are in London?

[st.tully]

Thank you all for giving your recommendations. Indeed, Davies is getting lots of kudos. I often read that it will take three suits before your tailor really has you "dialed in". I surely hope by doing as much research as possible and in person visits will help my odds of getting it right the first time. I'm very blessed to be able to consider the bespoke option but that does not mean the cost is insignificant to me.

My plan is to commission a suit before I leave London and have the basted fitting at the tailor's Fall visit to the States. I will more than likely be back in London in January for the forward fitting.

Thank you all again for your insight. Please keep the thoughts and suggestions coming.

[DD MacDonald]

Give Edwin DeBoise at Steed a call, he's a gent and has a great eye for balance.

While it's true that it can take a couple of suits to get the pattern really dialed in, this has more to do with your tastes which rapidly evolve under the influence of bespoke. Fit and balance will all get adjusted by any competant tailor, it just takes one or two hand-offs for the first suits compared to the third. Be patient, they want the suit to fit you as much as you do.

DDM

[Scot]

I agree that it's possible for a good cutter to get the pattern 95% right first time. Malcolm Plews at Welsh and Jefferies pretty much nailed my pattern with his first attempt - and my shape has its peculiarities! The result, though not absolutely perfect, was still the best fitting suit I had owned up until then. Unfortunately for the OP Malcolm doesn't travel.

I think it important on a first visit to have some idea of: what you want the suit for; SB or DB; how many buttons; solid, stripe or check; colour; cloth type. As a larger man you might find button 2 more flattering than button 3 on a SB. I guess that you might also be asking about 3B rolled to 2 or 2.5. Be aware that not all English tailors consider this a good idea and mentioning it might produce a mild grimace! I think for a first suit it is best to take advice since this will be based on what the firm knows they do best. As for colour and cloth etc, unless you have a specific purpose in mind you can't go wrong with a navy blue worsted flannel for the first suit. Only other advice would be to be patient. Don't order six suits, order one and take it from there.

Good luck and have a good trip. There is little more pleasurable than strolling around Savile row and its environs.

[st.tully]

Well here is an update. I had a wonderful trip to London and made the rounds of Savile Row. I visited most all of the aforementioned tailors and universally had a warm and inviting reception. I must admit that I had to walk up and down the Row a few times before I walked in the first door - I really had some trepidation about browsing and asking questions.

Fortunately, my first stop was at Steven Hitchcock's abode. We had a wonderful and enlightening conversation about how to address my wants and needs - how to fit a rather frumpy fellow - me. But for his travel schedule being not convenient to mine, I would have stopped right there and commissioned my first bespoke. I continued on for a few more stops - all very pleasant. My last stop was Poole.

My first impression of Henry Poole was "order". By that I mean it looked organized and busy. I met Simon and Alex and felt that I was in good hands. I'm rather shaped like Angus Cundey so they had some very good ideas on how to cut a flattering suit. I selected a very nice 13oz Lesser navy herringbone. Four piece, two button, notch lapel, slant pockets. I'm just as excited as can be. I will return to London for the basted fitting and have the forward fitting on their trip to the USA in March.

I'm very thankful to the London Lounge for all of the great information contained herein. I'll keep you posted on the progress.

Cheers!!