Bespoke Blazer

[jlazarow]

Hi all,

I am looking for some learned advice! I am looking at buying a bespoke classic navy blazer. I have trying to decide whether to purchase a blazer from Huntsman, Anderson and Sheppard, or Len Logsdail. I have used all three tailors and I am happy with each-- and use each for different reasons. I am trying to figure out which one will cut me the best classic single breasted blazer.

Thanks in advance!

[Jordan Marc]

jlazarow:

Bypass Huntsman (too expensive) and Anderson and Shepard (past its prime) and head straight for Leonard Logsdail, not only because he's one of the better tailors in New York City but also because Tender Buttons on East 62nd Street is within walking distance of Len's shop and has the best variety of blazer buttons in town. Since you prefer a single-breasted blazer for your commission, you might consider a 14 oz West of England woollen flannel with high-gorge notch lapels rolled to the first of two buttons, pick stitching rather than swelled edges, a nipped-in waist, patch hip pockets, a barchetta welt breast pocket with more pick stitching, deep side vents, slightly raised sleeveheads, and narrow sleeves with four buttons.

By the way, when buying blazer buttons always buy a spare or two in each size.

The advantage of a single-breasted blazer is that it can easily be accessorized with, say, a tattersal vest
with notched lapels or V-neck sleeveless cablestitch cashmere pullovers to keep you warm in the fall.

If you don't already have a variety of odd trousers in your wardrobe to complement a blazer, consider
grey flannels, white flannels, tan-and-brown twills with a marl effect, dark tan gabardine, tan-and-white herringbone tweed linen, and salmon red linen with slubs.

JMB

[Greger]

Hardly think woollen flannel is blazer cloth. Generally blazer cloth, it seems to me, is smooth and crisp. What do others think?

[Jordan Marc]

Greger:

What you're espousing is the serge point of view for a blazer, which is acceptable, though the material always reminds me of a waiter's or bellman's jacket. A 14 oz wool flannel has a depth of color and richness
that surpasses the flat effect of serge. Whether in navy blue (dark) or Hudderfield blue (closer to royal blue than its inky counterpart), the cloth of a classic blazer should have depth and a soft hand. If flannel isn't to your liking, try a basketweave wool hopsacking. Add the right buttons, which are the jewellery of a blazer, and you're good to go.

JMB

[jlazarow]

Thanks for your advice. I guess my mistake was not being clear on what I am looking for. I believe all three firms have great tailors. Len is a wonderful gentleman and probably one of the best cutters on earth! I am just wondering if either A and S or Huntsman have distinct cuts of a blazer that would be best suited for an all around blazer. I am also certain that Len will create a classic, urbane blazer.

[DD MacDonald]

jlazarow, I just had a fitting with Edwin DeBoise for the blue mistral cloth from the Cloth Club. Take a look, our opinion was that the cloth would make a great blazer. The blue is perfect and the cloth has life. DDM

[jlazarow]

Thanks for the great advice! Where can I see a sample of the mistral cloth? I guess I am high-jacking my own thread, but what do anybody think about linen suits?

[Manself]

Can I respectfully enquire about when Jordan Marc last had a suit from A&S and Huntsman? One of the things I like about the Lounge is that it's not generally a place one reads sweeping statements that dismiss world-class tailors with a glib condemnation, so it troubles me to read such remarks about two titans of Savile Row. I can't comment on Huntsman, not having had a suit from them, but I am able to vouch for the quality of A&S's suits (they made me one a year ago) and I think they'd make an excellent blazer. Whether or not it's as good a blazer as they would have made a decade ago, I'm in no position to judge, but I'm not sure how relevant a consideration that is given that we all have to live in the here and now.

If, JMB, you have recently patronised the tailors in question I apologise in advance for doubting you.

[Mark Seitelman]

* * *
I am looking for some learned advice! * * * I have used all three tailors and I am happy with each-- and use each for different reasons. I am trying to figure out which one will cut me the best classic single breasted blazer. * * *

Since you have had positive experience with all three tailors, why solicit the advice of people with less experience?

Why not have all three make the identical blazer, and see which one is best?

[alden]

All three are members of the LL Certified Artisans, and I am not sure how you define "classic blazer" so pick the maker whose coats suit you best....non?

Cheers

Michael Alden

[jlazarow]

All three are members of the LL Certified Artisans, and I am not sure how you define "classic blazer" so pick the maker whose coats suit you best....non?

Cheers

Michael Alden

So I finally did decide on a blazer, I went with A&S. I love their double breasted suits they have done for me--they are the most comfortable garments I own. I figure that this blazer would be something I would wear on weekends, to dinners, and more casual events. I am sure it will be great!

Although, at Huntsman, Mr. Murphy and Mr. Smith showed me a wonderful darkest blue linen cloth that could be made into a summer weight casual suit. This would fill a hole in my wardrobe... I suppose its something to look forward to...