Blouson and Saharienne

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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tteplitzmd

Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:55 pm

After more than a year, I would like to show my two commissions from Stephen Lachter. The idea for the blouson started after I had an unlined sports jacket made of Zegna's Trofeo summer jacketing.

The tailor had extra cloth, which Stephen Lachter was agreeable to using for the blouson:

The blouson is unconstructed except for collar and cuff interlining.

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The Saharienne is made from a soft Italian "cashco"( Cotton with a bit of cashmere) in a taupe. There are the usual details, except I added a hanging loop on the inside and outside, and skipped inside pockets. There are no vents.

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mmkn2
Posts: 80
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Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:19 pm

TMD,

Do you have photos of these articles on you?

Thank you.

- M
dopey
Posts: 862
Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2005 4:24 pm
Location: New York City
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Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:24 pm

Thanks for posting these. The blouson by a shirtmaker is a particularly interesting idea. You left out photos of the hanging loops on the Saharienne - I was particularly interested in how you did the outside loop.
tteplitzmd

Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:06 pm

The inner loop on the Saharienne is hidden in the photo behind the wooden hanger. The outside loop was placed incorrectly on both: it is on the seam that runs between the shoulder blades below the collar. I had asked that it be under the rear of the collar, the way it was done on my old Sulka RTW golf jackets. Mr. Lachter will correct it on both when I am in London in the spring. With regard to shirtmakers doing these models, he did decline my suggestion to line the neckband and cuffs with Bemberg. I can't say I blame him.
tteplitzmd

Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:09 pm

The other thing I want to do differently on the next iteration of the blouson, is to have the corners of the patch pockets slightly rounded, the way they are on the Saharienne. Size and placement of the pockets distracted from addressing that. I have a faux tweed, a la Glorious Twelth, of Huddersfield Worsted on deck for the next version of the blouson. My goal is to have the blouson in at least 3 different weights. Hartwist will complete the series.
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