Hélène Darroze at the Connaught?

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couch
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Sun Feb 01, 2009 3:01 am

What is the LL verdict on the culinary regime? Angela Hartnett's restaurant was not highly regarded here, and I heard nothing good in any quarter about her handling of room service and other responsibilities outside the dining room.

I had tea in the Gallery in June, while the restaurant front-of-house staff were being trained for the opening. It was quite splendid, including the service. Scones not baked until called for, arriving hot, fresh, and aromatic. I nursed hopes that the food operation was returning, if not to its former glory, at least to high standards and contemporary elegance.

But a perusal of reviews of the restaurant itself shows opinions all over the map, from the sublime to the abominable. What say you? If one wanted to splash out for a meal, should this be on the short list?
rjman
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Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:01 pm

sublime to the abominable describes the reviews of her Paris restaurant too.

I haven't had the opportunity to try, though.
alden
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Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:47 pm

I had the great pleasure to lunch at the Connaught and was very pleased. It was the Darroze I remember from when she first opened in Paris. The quality of the products was first rate and the service was impeccable. It was a Fall menu filled with wild mushrooms, game and truffles. This plays to Darroze's strength so I may have just been fortunate.

I would go back in an instant.

Cheers

M Alden
tteplitzmd

Sat Feb 28, 2009 12:59 am

I was there as well last June, Couch. The service was much improved, but still nothing like the old days of the Connaught. That's the standard by which I would judge any Hotel restaurant. My bias is that the latest corporate owner will spend more on publicity than service and food quality. You really need to question the judgment of any business that replaces seasoned London born/bred Concierges with French guys who have to look at my London A to Z. I am going to be at the Connaught for a few days in May, and may test drive the Restaurant. I never understood what was wrong with the old Connaught Grill, and why it had to be replaced with these 'celebrity' chefs. The smart money, I think, would go down the street to Scott's.

By the way, I have just returned from Boca Raton, where my Hotel featured an Angela Hartnett outpost. Deserted, no pun intended.
storeynicholas

Sat Feb 28, 2009 1:33 am

Yes. If you listen very carefully, the 'French guys' in these places, often turn out to be lining corridors, in between courses, de la nouvelle cuisine discussing, in decidedly cockney tones, whether they favour The Hammers' chances at home against The Arsenal next Saturday - and, O! for the days when they didn't have to fake French accents to get a job - and they just knew the names of the roads of their own city!!
NJS.
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