Grey flannel suiting

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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sartorius
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Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:48 pm

I am considering having a grey flannel suit made up and would be interested in any recommendations from members as to cloth.
Concordia
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Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:53 pm

For solids, hard to go wrong with Minnis 12/13 oz. That might be a worsted but has a lot of interest and doesn't lose its shape too badly.
DD MacDonald
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Fri Sep 05, 2008 2:26 pm

Sartorious, I've really enjoyed the 12 oz woolen flannel set from Holland & Sherry starting at 752100. The cloth is a "West of England" style with very good depth and textural interest. I have a patch pocket suit from 752100 which is a mid gray and a traditional suit from the next shade darker that will get debuted this winter.

Take a look, it's great stuff. DDM
Concordia
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Fri Sep 05, 2008 2:41 pm

Also, if you can find them-- Smiths has a small but excellent selection of flannels. Might be all you need.
Jordan Marc
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Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:24 pm

Don't forget Hunt & Winterbotham in your seach for flannel. You'll find H&W under the banners of Hardy and Minnis.

Years ago, when I lived in New York City, Bernard Weatherill made me a three-piece chalk stripe suit from Hunt & Winterbotham cloth. It was (and still is) the most durable flannel I've ever encountered, and I've never seen a color quite like it. Charles Weatherill described it as lovat-colored (grey with a touch of sage) with a 2 cm white stripe. It was lined in mohair, something that is rarely if ever done these days. It's not the lightest rig in my wardrobe, but it's the only suit I could wear on a New York winter day with only a pashmina wrapped round my neck to keep out the chill. No overcoat required.

Do put Hunt & Winterbotham's flannel book on your shortlist of clohs to consider. If chalks aren't to your liking, chances are you'll find plain West-of-England woollen flannels in various weights more to your taste.

JMB
Sator
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Sun Sep 07, 2008 12:45 pm

Fox recently sent me out a swatch for a beautiful 13 Oz charcoal grey woollen flannel. It is a subtle black/medium grey mixture with a marl effect, looking overall like a charcoal grey.

They have an exceptionally good reputation and it is generally more cost effective buying straight from the mill.

http://foxflannel.com/

They have other weights and shades of grey, so I do suggest contacting them.
Hartline
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Sun Sep 07, 2008 2:04 pm

What is really meant by West of England flannel?
DD MacDonald
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Mon Sep 08, 2008 1:58 pm

While exposition on the exact history of "west of england" will have to wait for another member, in current use it refers to a well marled or mottled woolen flannel.. Traditionally I can imagine that WOE flannel was 14 oz+, I am using the term to describe the color effect. When you take a look at various flannels, you will see some that are mottled and some that are flat, I take WOE to be the former and not the latter.

DDM
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