Bespoke terminology

[zegnamtl]

Bespoke terminology 101,


Taliors and bespoke buyers,
I can not seem to find the proper term for this manner of marking,
does anyone know the correct term??

Thank you,

[Valentina Iv]

I am thinking, may be it's copying stitch, but I not sure.

Valentina.

[schneidergott]

Hello!

In german it's called "Sticheinziehgerät", or stitch marker, which is actually pretty much the same like copying stitches. I've got a similar tool, which basically works in the same way, except this one has a little wheel.
Most tailors will use basting stitches to mark the positions of pockets and front edges, shoulders and darts. Actually all necessary markings on garments to copy them to the lower layer of fabric.





SG

[JamesT1]

I've always done that by hand - cutting the thread at each stitch and then cutting inbetween the two layers. I had no idea there was a tool for that.

[schneidergott]

Marking certain details by hand is likely to be the most common way of doing it.
I'm not sure but I'd think this very rare tool was meant for workers who did this most of the time. To make this tool work properly you have to do it on a thick but soft piece of felt or similar material, like shown in the picture of the original post! This material is meant to "catch" the stitches and create a loop when the cloth is removed from the mat.
Cutting the stitches is still to be done with scissors by hand!
These are the pictures from the instruction flyer:







But I think the OP wanted to know if there is a special term for this procedure.
Well, in german it's called Stiche einziehen" oder auch "Stiche durchschlagen", no matter how it is done, by hand with a needle or with a tool similar to those shown!


SG

[JamesT1]

Interesting, thank you.

[zegnamtl]

Thank you gentlemen,

I have been visiting a tailor and taking pictures, following one bespoke suit from cloth selection to completion. The tailor has three people who work for him, he does most of the "big" work and all the measuring, fittings and cutting himself, the others sew seams, button holes the liner etc.

[zegnamtl]

I've always done that by hand - cutting the thread at each stitch and then cutting inbetween the two layers. I had no idea there was a tool for that.

I believe he said he bought his in France, where he apprenticed.

[alden]

Its an interesting machine and one I had never seen before as these stitches are normally done by hand. It must save time though..

[schneidergott]

As for the time saving: This tool only makes sense when there is a lot of use for it.
A tailor who is working on his own is probably faster with the hand stitches.
The tool only works on a thick soft mat, which needs space and takes time to put it on the table and back under it!
I found my version of this tool on german Ebay, and I saw it on Ebay USA. It's from the early 50's or 60's, it says BUNDESPATENT, so it must be from after 1950. It's fun to have such a thing, but I hardly use it!


SG