Chesterfield Coat - help wanted!

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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wegimental
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:59 pm
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Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:07 am

Esteemed Loungers,
I would like to add a classic medium grey Chesterfield, perhaps in a small herringbone pattern, to my wardrobe. I love my G&H British Warm but want something darker. In a perfect world, I would like a high quality OTR size 42, replete with black velvet collar. I've been as far as I know how to go on the internet. Can our members in Britain suggest a supplier ? Are such coats still available OTR or must I bite another financial bullet and have one made up from scratch ?
Approaching despair,
wegimental

ps posted this also on the East Coast section - hope I have not caused abrasion by so doing
raykalendek
Posts: 155
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 10:20 pm
Location: Upstate NY
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Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:46 am

wegimental:

This coat was recently offered on the Hickey Freeman website for approximately $850., reduced from about $1400. The price was almost too irresistible, but the lack of a fly front put me off. If I recall correctly, when the sale ended and the item was removed from the website, a wide selection of sizes still remained. A call to HF might produce a hit, should you find this coat appealing. I wouldn't be surprised were they to agree to honor the sale price.

Regards,

Ray K.

Image
wegimental
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Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:07 pm

Thank you very much for this info re: Hickey Freeman. I, like you, am not too keen on the failure to embody true Chesterfield fashion by skipping the fly front. I will let this example pass on, but had it a proper front I would have leapt!
Thanks again.
Doug
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Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:51 pm

Brooks Brothers still carries the traditional version, I believe. New & Lingwood (London) has some very nicely styled versions which are illustrated on their web site. I don't own either version so I cannot vouch for the quality. I purchased two very high quality versions on ebay--one a new Chester Barrie, the other a beautiful vintage Roger Kent (no longer in business, equivalent in quality in its day to the higher quality Brooks Brothers of many years ago).
Pryor
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Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:20 pm

What is the proper length of a formal Chesterfield, one suited for evening wear?

I commissioned an overcoat a few years ago, when I lived in Beijing and had access to affordable tailoring, that in hindsight was perhaps not the wisest of stylistic choices. It was intended to be a Chesterfield in black cashmere with a black velvet collar and a cut almost identical to the one seen in the image posted above. However, with access to inexpensive cashmere I went a bit overboard and had it made to ankle length. Being all black, ankle length, and with strong waist suppression, it looks both feminine and a bit akin to a costume. I hope that by shortening it I might remedy this, but would like to hear what is considered to be the ideal length for such a coat.

Cheers,

Pryor
alden
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Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:24 pm

what is considered to be the ideal length for such a coat.
From mid-calf at the lowest to two inches below the knee at the loftiest.

Shorten that coat.

Michael
Pryor
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Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:29 pm

Much obliged. I've relocated to Baltimore and have just discovered a marvelous little tailor's shop two blocks from my flat. Time to make this coat wearable.

Cheers,

Pryor
sam
Posts: 29
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 3:40 pm
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Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:12 pm

Pardon my ignorance, but could someone please explain the difference between a Chesterfield and a Covert coat? Illustrations would be much appreciated. Also, which of the two would be most appropriate for more casual wear? Thank you.
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