They said it couldn't be done...

[alden]

The first thing to make absolutely clear is that 1000 gms (34 ozs) whipcord does exist.



The second thesis to develop regards its crafting into a Covert Coat. Now if ever a coat were ready for coverts, this is the one. And yet crafted in the ateliers of Sicily in a manner that is as natural and unstructured as sartorially possible, this coat is an absolute pleasure to wear.



So I have to say it is my favorite garment this season. Worn with a sweater this coat excels at long walks in any weather Winter can dish out.



The coat weighs a ton and a half to carry though it is as light as a feather when draped over the body. It probably would be a considerable handicap racing to catch planes or jumping into taxis, but for being warm in cold weather, I am not sure what would be better.



As you will note, the style is perfectly English. Nothing exaggerated here at all. No long, preposterously wide lapels springing from nowhere to be found on this Italian made coat. Just goes to show you that it can be done.



Cheers

Michael Alden

[The Doctor]

Michael,

Very nice looking coat.

Edwin

[angelo]

Michael,
a superb overcoat indeed and, as outlined by You , made with the right fabric for a classical outdoor sport covert coat.
In my opinion a version, with the addition of a ticket pocket, would also be as much as pleasant.

Angelo

[Concordia]

That could be worth a trip to Sicily! Although I shudder to think about trying it on in the fittings. No overcoat is worth heat stroke.

[Sator]

WOW! That is just superb. How on earth did you find such a wonderful fabric???

[Aristide]

Next to the blonde at lunch, it is the most beautiful thing I've seen today. Thank you for sharing.

[yachtie]

I for one would be very interested in the source of that fabric.

[HappyStroller]

This is a coat with a short lapel which is not my preference that truly looks impressive, Alden.

BTW, where is the Covertness in this coat, Sir?

The first thing to make absolutely clear is that 1000 gms (34 ozs) whipcord does exist.

...<snipped>

The second thesis to develop regards its crafting into a Covert Coat. Now if ever a coat were ready for coverts, this is the one. And yet crafted in the ateliers of Sicily in a manner that is as natural and unstructured as sartorially possible, this coat is an absolute pleasure to wear.



So I have to say it is my favorite garment this season. Worn with a sweater this coat excels at long walks in any weather Winter can dish out.

...<snipped>...

As you will note, the style is perfectly English. Nothing exaggerated here at all. No long, preposterously wide lapels springing from nowhere to be found on this Italian made coat. Just goes to show you that it can be done.
...<snipped>...
Cheers

Michael Alden

[Costi]

If you will pardon the oxymoron, it is remarkably understated. Subtle shaping. Less is more, isn’t it?
These heavy cloths tailor and wear so well as overcoats. And you are absolutely right, they don’t weigh on your shoulders. They feel substantial and their shape depends entirely on cut and gravity – no amount of padding, wadding or canvas stitching can tame such a cloth, it’s all up to the hand holding the scissors.
As for wearing hot – not at all, they feel just right; if the weather is right, of course…

[alden]

I don’t know how you feel about this but I always find it amazing that so many beginning bespeakers have it engrained in their heads that humans expire if they wear any garment over 11 ozs. Here is an overcoat that is worn with a jacket and or sweater that weighs nearly three times the perilous 11 ozs threshold…and its extremely comfortable to wear. The other day I wore a 650 gms jacket under the 1000 gms overcoat, and I lived to write this post!

The three greatest pleasures of bespoke tailoring are the ability to choose your own fabric, to dress in your own style and to be fit properly. The three pleasures are intimately related. Selecting the right cloth, one that tailors well, will help assure the good fit. And the right pattern and color of cloth can define a style. In this regards, it is important for young readers to be open minded about all weights, patterns, textures and colors of cloth they imagine using with their future commissions. And construction, as exemplified by the very natural and hence “light” 1000 gms covert coat, has a paramount role to play.

So explore the entire spectrum of cloth weights with your tailor until you find the one that delivers the style, fit, comfort (and warmth) that you require.

M Alden

[Cufflink79]

Dear Mr. Alden:

A very handsome overcoat indeed, a nice classic style like that will give you a lot great years of use.

You have done a fantastic job of bringing to life something that would be seen in the AA Esky drawings. Bravo!!

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[Algernon]

Dear Mr Alden;

A splendid coat and useful advice about fabric -- thank you!

WGFK

[MTM]

I love it's subtlety too, as well as the one "frill": the stitching at the cuffs and hem. Your sons/nephews, grandsons, and great-grandsons will be lucky to inherit it, as long as they don't kill each other over it.

[le.gentleman]

Great coat!

Recently, I was fortunate enough to find a vintage German 6x2 coat which is in like new condition and weighs almost 4 kg. In the pocket there was still a new years eve note dated "31.12.38". So it is at least 69 years old! It has the most beautiful buttonholes I have ever seen. They must have been made out of a very narrow silk because nowadays you can't find such buttonholes anymore.
Here are 2 bad pictures (sorry about the poor quality) of the buttonholes that don't do this stunning coat justice... I have to take some pictures soon.

[Cufflink79]

Great coat!

Recently, I was fortunate enough to find a vintage German 6x2 coat which is in like new condition and weighs almost 4 kg. In the pocket there was still a new years eve note dated "31.12.38". So it is at least 69 years old! It has the most beautiful buttonholes I have ever seen. They must have been made out of a very narrow silk because nowadays you can't find such buttonholes anymore.
Here are 2 bad pictures (sorry about the poor quality) of the buttonholes that don't do this stunning coat justice... I have to take some pictures soon.

Nice looking coat Rapheal.

I remember you telling me about the coat in an earlier e-mail, but the photo is even better then what you described.

Should help keep you nice and warm in the winter.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79