0.5 inch-cuff

[Guest]

Hey.
I have noticed that some suits have a sleeve showing the 0.5 inch all round whereas some others show the 0.5 inch at the front then the sleeve becomes longer at the back thus hiding the shirt sleeve. I have observed this on some good SR suits so I am guessing this is not a design fault. I am not sure thought. Is one of them wrong? Or does it depend on the tailor?
Thanks

[Guest]

When I remarked upon that very thing to my tailor having tried on my first bespoke suit he said that the jacket sleeves should be slanted, or at least that's how he always makes them.

[Guest]

A&S slants them in this fashion, or at least John Hitchcock does. To my eye, most Italian suits reveal too much cuff: the cuffs look freakishly short.

[Guest]

The natural bend in the elbow causes the hands to hang slightly forward, which calls for the coat sleeve hem to be cut somewhat longer in the back and shorter in the front, i.e. at a slant. If the shirt sleeve is short or is cut without allowance for the elbow bend, or if the cuff is too tight around the wrist then the shirt cuff will hang straight and will show like a wedge from beneath the coat sleeve. But if the shirt sleeve is long enough that the cuff does not hang from it but rests on the wrist instead, and if the cuff is just tight enough not to slip over the hand but not excessively snug, then the shirt cuff will sit at a slant, too, and show uniformly from beneath the coat sleeve.

C